1950’s A/Schwinn Straightbar Klunker

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Captain Awesome

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Question to group…. Do i desecrate/improve the ‘50’s Straight bar by altering/file/grind the R dropouts to accept a modern 14mm axle?

…. ~4mm of classic 1950’s Arnold-Schwinn steel would have to go….

@Captain Awesome @hammer mechanic etc…. for example input appreciated

Why not file the axle instead?









Ok, so, I confess!

I was cursing y’all as I walked past the industrial drill bit set on sale for $5.99 with the 3/8” bit to buy an $11.00 file!!!!

However, the job came out OK and was really pretty quick and simple too. Not counting the time it took to buy the file, this job was like a 15-20 minute task.

So, pretty easy, actually.
View attachment 167989

In summary, for me, the fork drilling vs axle filing is a flip of the coin.

I agree, if this was an all original Schwinn or a high value bike, and you’re upgrading to modern wheels, then definitely file the axles.

Likewise, I really liked the axle swap idea proposed by @Bike from the Dead

As I paid $30 for the “Rolumbiafast”, even with this bike fully tuned and resto-modded, at most all I’d get for the bike if I went to sell it is maybe a couple of hundred bucks.

So, file, drill, on a low value bike, I don’t think it matters much. On a bike with value, definitely take the 15-20 minutes to file or do the axle swap.

In the end, thanks for everyone’s input here as I do have a few bikes of value that I’m going to upgrade and using the low value Rolumbiafast as a test run for axle filing was a great experience!!!!!’

Thanks Guys!!!!
 

Uncle Ookie

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Wheel!…..

Finally!!!….

Stolen (brand) “Rampage” …

11t hub driver hmmm… might go fast but will be not creamy enuf for an Uncle….

in “mock up” here…. Not sure



895E9B82-1EC0-4FB6-B96E-473C7AC6CCA3.jpeg
 

Uncle Ookie

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Hookworms = Grippy/Comfy

I have 2.5s on my 1940 Schwinn.
I wanted gum/tan wall, been eyeing Billy Bonkers” by Schwalbe… ot Conti Town and Country…but new that is not possible in the supply line… some eta dates cut it too close for the Build-Off…. 559 seems what they’ve LEAST had available in all this… plus…anywhoo.. fatter is better eh?

Cool about your ‘40s… thanks for the visit!

✌🏼🥃🖖🏼
 
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I always grind the frame or fork. I’ve broken enough axles that I don’t trust thinning those. My original bmx bike was a dyno with ground out drop outs and I’ve always stuck with that
 

Uncle Ookie

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Off to rolling frame test…. W/Huffy tandem wheel as klunky donor…. I kinda like the aged/look of it…

5C2857CF-A19C-4D6C-A28F-6DB6C60B01FB.jpeg

Found a B6 that suits pretty good… hardware bottomed out but… safe enuf to get a quick ride… it’s fast…. Stands up real nice…

BD9A0EC4-4E81-4CBF-AC2E-A2DEA82D8E09.jpeg

Lots to think about…. Chain line is slightly off…. I could switch it for shorter…. Seat hardware has to go…

taking shape!….
Peace everybody…. Thanks for the beta on the Rear

❤️
 
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Went w/ the axle… that can be re-purchased… plus… way more material, than the original, remaining.View attachment 181245
Those 3/8" BMX axles can take it, especially if the bike is not going to be ridden on any rough trails. I'd ride it and not worry one little bit.
 

Uncle Ookie

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Those 3/8" BMX axles can take it, especially if the bike is not going to be ridden on any rough trails. I'd ride it and not worry one little bit.
Thanks Cap’n! Appreciated!!!
I’ve the athleticism/body of an Idaho Potato. It will get stressed but not like i am friggin’ Glen Plake over here
 
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