1989 Specialized Stump Jumper Revival Begins!

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This is how she looked when I got her.

specialized team stumpjumper.JPG


Put her on the new stand and get to rippin' into it. First thing is to remove seized fork in preparation for the rebuild kit ordered from Suspension Fork Parts.
https://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/answer-manitou/manitou-1.html
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That done, I removed the wheels and inspected everything else. I find nice, beefy, serviceable components needing a good scrubbing and degreasing.
The wheels have a little wobble to them. I will try to true them, which is something I haven't done before. If that proves unsuccessful, I'll take them to my LBS.

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My plan as of now is to keep the original paint, deep six the horrendous bull bars for MTB or BMX style bars, and slap on some non-knobby meats.
 
I have dumb question. This has an old school threaded stem, but it has this top cap thingy which is retained with a very small allen headed bolt.
Does this top cap screw off in the traditional way in order to remove the fork? I removed the allen bolt and tried to unthread it with a wrench, but it didn't want to budge easily and I didn't want to force it and wreck the piece. Am I missing something?
 

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Nope, you are not missing anything if you loosen the pinch bolt. There were even a few headsets in that era that had allen head set screws as well.

The way those original bars were set up is what I call "sun seekers". They are usually set up that way by DUI riders in a similar vein with flipped up drop bars. Hokey, but I guess functional for OWGs with back problems.
 
You going ot clearcoat over the body to preserve the paint from further wear?

...maybe i'm just a big dork but I'd list this, in the proverbial three ring binder of notes, as 'project longhorn' pretty much exactly because of those .... rather distinctive bars you stripped off (therea local co-op that might could find a home for them?)

Glad you're keeping us posted and keeping pace.
 
vintage_manitou_mtb_wtb_1990s_catalog_14828__99406.1507072620.1280.1280.jpg


Started tearing fork tubes apart. Inside of tubes is funky. Right side came apart no problem. Pulled the allen bolt and washer out, and the only thing remaining was what looked like a burned up piece of bear scat fused to the bottom of the tube...which would not come out.

The left tube is even worse. Unscrewed allen bolt/washer, but neither would slide out due to, I assume, melted/deteriorated elastomers.

Not wanting to mar up the interior surfaces of the tubes trying to remove the melted stuff inside using metal tools, I filled both tubes with paint thinner, WD40, and PB Blaster.

I'll let this concoction sit in the tubes for 24 hours or so. Shouldn't hurt the tubes, and should break down the funk in them so I can clean it out.
 

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OOOF.... Ya opening something up that's been allowed to sit and collect crud is never gonna be pretty. I salute you for your dedication to restoring the original part instead of buying a new fork.
 
OOOF.... Ya opening something up that's been allowed to sit and collect crud is never gonna be pretty. I salute you for your dedication to restoring the original part instead of buying a new fork.
Yes, and thanks. It's probably more cheapness on my part rather than dedication, but I appreciate your kind words!
;)
 
I have dumb question. This has an old school threaded stem, but it has this top cap thingy which is retained with a very small allen headed bolt.
Does this top cap screw off in the traditional way in order to remove the fork? I removed the allen bolt and tried to unthread it with a wrench, but it didn't want to budge easily and I didn't want to force it and wreck the piece. Am I missing something?

Hi there

That top lock nut should just thread off of there once you loosen the Allen key bolt.

What may have happened is that the Steer tube is Steel and the ring is Aluminum …. Opposite type of metals will cease up over time

Try soaking it in Deep creep or other penetrating oil …. Let it soak at least overnight …. Then try it

Good luck
Peter m
 
What a PITA! Turns out hot water and the liberal use of rags and a shotgun cleaning rod would get this red gelatinous goo out of the fork.

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IMG_4466.jpg

For those who may not know, this early style Manitou fork contains no metal springs, but rather several sponge type pucks, bolts, and some washers.
Over time these pucks melt, the fork collapses, and you get the mess you see here. There was absolutely nothing left of these several pucks other than a melted mess at the bottom of the tubes.

IMG_4465.jpg


It was quite a chore to get these forks ready for restoration, but it is done.
The rebuild kit should arrive in a few days.

Here are the factory specs for this bike:

tsj specs.png
 
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Because I have neither experience nor confidence in my abilities, I took the wheels to my LBS, Bicycle Garage Indy South, to get them trued.
Assembled and installed the forks, which seem to function now as originally intended.
Scrounged a set of handle bars from my stash and mocked them up. They'll do for now, but I think I'd like a little wider set.
Cleaned the rear derailleur and front sprocket...which were extremely nasty...but appear to be in serviceable condition.
She's coming along!

Oh...I've finally figured it out that this bike didn't come from the factory with the Manitou suspension fork. It would have had a white rigid "Cro-Mo" fork.
It dawned on me after perusing 1989 Specialized sales catalogues, that none of them had Manitou suspension forks on them.
My LBS confirmed this.
Duh. I ain't too bright, I know.

To be honest, I'd rather have the original rigid fork as I find it more aesthetically pleasing to my eye.
But, it's too late now. Too much money and time invested in the Manitou.
Live and learn.
 

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Because I have neither experience nor confidence in my abilities, I took the wheels to my LBS, Bicycle Garage Indy South, to get them trued.
Assembled and installed the forks, which seem to function now as originally intended.
Scrounged a set of handle bars from my stash and mocked them up. They'll do for now, but I think I'd like a little wider set.
Cleaned the rear derailleur and front sprocket...which were extremely nasty...but appear to be in serviceable condition.
She's coming along!
Good job Man !! As a former Specialized dealer I can tell you that if any Bike is worth a refurbishment like that it’s a Stumpjumper !!!

You will love the ride of the Prestige tubing …. It has a higher Nickel content than regular Cromoly making it stiffer and lighter giving it a much more efficient and zippier feel ..

Each tube on the frame set is custom designed and built for the specific frame size .. Look up Specialized. “ Direct drive “ online for details on that ..

Enjoy the ride.. The effort will be well worth it ..

Pete
 

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almost all mtb's from this era are worth saving. They are versatile bikes and good in many configurations. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.
 
The Stumpy's coming along. Got her mocked up pretty much where I want her. Waiting for grips and brake/shifter cable kits.
She's ridable now, at least! I think she'll be quite nice when done.
 

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