A Zombie Reborn - the build thread

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SkyknightJohn

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Recieved my replacement welder pedal today, two days early! (hooray!) Checked it out, works well. I bought the upgraded version, from SSC, also sold as Nova.

I don’t know if I learned something new in the break, this pedal has better control, or a steadier arc, or the old one was already fritzing out, but compare the top and bottom welds in this photo:
2FC23CEF-B3F4-44A8-8CE6-BACFD9376AD3.jpeg


Both servicable, one way prettier.
Only did some test welds and a few on the frame before the sweat was dripping off me too much to continue. Will do more in the morning.
 

SkyknightJohn

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Well, I could lie to you, skip to today’s final photos, and say all went well…

Or,

I could show you this photo:

ADAD4850-77BE-4E90-A868-C59133B1C838.jpeg


…and say the best way to check the security of your welds is to grind them off and see what’s inside,

or,

I could admit I forgot to add the compound bend in the seat stays to allow tire clearance, only discovering it after it was all welded up & cooled down.
4DB6AE66-646A-4FD0-9708-9415850FEBA7.jpeg
 

OddJob

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Wow, John! Your perseverance paid off. I really like the shape of your frame design, nice and flowy.
I got lost on all the 'welder speak', but it looks like you got it all worked out.

RaT oN~!
 

kingfish254

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Looking good.
I usually don't like notchback frame designs as much, but yours flows well. I don't think you would gain anything adding another set of seatstays coming from the top tube. If flows well as it sits.
 

SkyknightJohn

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Thanks. And nope, no more chainstays. She’s painted and 2k clear coated.

Also today brushed the handlebars down to remove the minor surface rust and small blemishes, for the most part. A couple areas were too deep, but I knew that going in. Removed the rust and gave them a coat of clear for protection as well.
6D5E22FF-81D2-411D-9A4B-633958A52EE9.jpeg


Add the doo-dads to the clear coat convention.
EBA72F72-2467-4240-815D-9AD8CBC1B8B0.jpeg
 

kingfish254

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Nice work on the fender ornament and headbadge
 

OddJob

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Mod Podge, baby! Used that on many a creation BITD. One of our favorites at camp was to gather a piece of natural wood, and lightly burn the grain, then burn the edges of a poem or quote on a thick paper, and then mount to the wood with, you guessed it, Mod Podge. I still have a jar on my 'glues, adhesive sprays, Flex Seal, coatings' shelf!

aa0fea8325d252607569b404fdbb62a5.jpg
 

SkyknightJohn

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Rollin’
504FC6D7-9F81-4560-8F2E-FECFA0E92743.jpeg

F7B990DF-C879-42EE-B9CD-D355CCEFF19D.jpeg


C8FC2057-4578-4604-B102-CAC41B4A46EC.jpeg

A few things quietly accomplished over the last two weeks:
-Paint (Metalcast Red + 2k clear) had a chance to sit and cure.
-New-to-me wheels arrived, cleaned, greased, blacked out. ThickSlicks applied.

The observant among you might notice I forgot to put the top of the triple tree on for this mock-up. I blame the heat.

I might lower the front to close the space between the front tire & frame. That’ll change the HT angle (currently measured at 27*) so I’ll have to do some testing to see how the steering feels.

Otherwise, find a seat, install brakes, gears, shifters, do-dads & call it a build.
 

kingfish254

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John, this frame is beautiful! The metalcast works with the flowy lines and design as well.

I like your plan to lower the front end a bit. It may change the geo some, but that could be compensated by also trying some different handlebars. The only thing I don't love about this build are the bars. A flatter bar would also take away from that 'really tall front end' look. Just a thought.

The disc brakes will really be cool on here! What is your drive train plan again?
 

SkyknightJohn

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The disc brakes will really be cool on here! What is your drive train plan again?
7 speed rear with a triple up front. May not be the final config, but it’s what I have. Might just go with the 7 on the rear and only use the middle front sprocket until I can get a single chainring crank.

Put the fork together correctly this morning. Just pushing it around the front wheel is a little flop-happy. Lowering the front end would likely reduce that. I’d have to cut the stancions down, so I want to be sure, first.

I have the cranks on, need to add pedals and a seat to do a good rolling test.
 

OddJob

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I like the idea of the 1 x 7 drive. Very cool. Also will keep that beautiful frame more visible without the fr der, all the chainrings, cables, and extra shifter.

RaT oN~!
 

SkyknightJohn

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This morning I added the crankset, cleaned and re-installed the rear sprockets (8-speed, now that I count), installed the brake disks, the front caliper and a lever, and a temporary seat.

Took her for a test roll down the neighborhood street.
B677F3DE-BC09-452B-88D4-D18CF87CB112.jpeg


She’s a no-hands bike! 😄 While at slow speeds the slack HT angle tends toward wheel flop, it’s not outlandish, and after a bit of speed rides straight as a rail. Easy S-turns down the road with only body language.

9BCA0966-618E-452B-A88E-70D004813EF9.jpeg


I’m a tall dude, and here the bike is adjusted to my height, with close to proper leg extension and the handlebars at a cruiser comfortable height.

For Looks 👀 there are some things I could do for cool factor, but for the ride, I think she’s a winner! 😎

More to do yet, of course.
 

OddJob

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I bet that steel frame rides nice! Those thinner tubes in the rear triangle might even give a bit to really accentuate the 'steel is real' ride feel.

I'm just curious, John. What are the dimensions in my diagram below?

A - Effective reach (center of seat to where you grab the handlebars, on a horizontal plane)
B - Bottom bracket height (flat ground to center of BB shell)
C - Chainstay length ( rear axle to center of BB shell)

johns build.jpg
 

SkyknightJohn

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1660234242281.jpeg

A) 28”
B) 10-3/8”
C) 17-1/2”
add’l : WB 48”, Seat tube 21-1/2”, Seat height 38”, Standover height 30”

For comparison, my P-40 Pilot
DE5419F4-FBA1-4F44-97AD-6DFA292BD0B5.jpeg


A) 27”
B) 10-3/4”
C) 19”
add’l : WB 42”, Seat tube 19”, Seat height 38”, Standover height 30”
 
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