A Zombie Reborn - the build thread

[SkyknightJohn]

Recieved my replacement welder pedal today, two days early! (hooray!) Checked it out, works well. I bought the upgraded version, from SSC, also sold as Nova.

I don’t know if I learned something new in the break, this pedal has better control, or a steadier arc, or the old one was already fritzing out, but compare the top and bottom welds in this photo:

Both servicable, one way prettier.
Only did some test welds and a few on the frame before the sweat was dripping off me too much to continue. Will do more in the morning.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Well, I could lie to you, skip to today’s final photos, and say all went well…

Or,

I could show you this photo:

…and say the best way to check the security of your welds is to grind them off and see what’s inside,

or,

I could admit I forgot to add the compound bend in the seat stays to allow tire clearance, only discovering it after it was all welded up & cooled down.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

But I persevered, cut & ground as needed, bent and coped new stays, and welded them up. Here are the results:

No headset in yet, and borrowed wheels, but a good look at the direction it’s headed.

 

[OddJob]

Wow, John! Your perseverance paid off. I really like the shape of your frame design, nice and flowy.
I got lost on all the 'welder speak', but it looks like you got it all worked out.

RaT oN~!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Well, things around here have been about as exciting as watching paint dry.

Here are a few teasers.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Used and old brass headbadge blank to make my own. Not telling the secret recipe.

It’ll get a coat of UV blocking clear as well, for longevity.

 

[kingfish254]

Looking good.
I usually don't like notchback frame designs as much, but yours flows well. I don't think you would gain anything adding another set of seatstays coming from the top tube. If flows well as it sits.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Thanks. And nope, no more chainstays. She’s painted and 2k clear coated.

Also today brushed the handlebars down to remove the minor surface rust and small blemishes, for the most part. A couple areas were too deep, but I knew that going in. Removed the rust and gave them a coat of clear for protection as well.

Add the doo-dads to the clear coat convention.

 

[kingfish254]

Nice work on the fender ornament and headbadge

 

[OddJob]

Mod Podge, baby! Used that on many a creation BITD. One of our favorites at camp was to gather a piece of natural wood, and lightly burn the grain, then burn the edges of a poem or quote on a thick paper, and then mount to the wood with, you guessed it, Mod Podge. I still have a jar on my 'glues, adhesive sprays, Flex Seal, coatings' shelf!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Rollin’

A few things quietly accomplished over the last two weeks:
-Paint (Metalcast Red + 2k clear) had a chance to sit and cure.
-New-to-me wheels arrived, cleaned, greased, blacked out. ThickSlicks applied.

The observant among you might notice I forgot to put the top of the triple tree on for this mock-up. I blame the heat.

I might lower the front to close the space between the front tire & frame. That’ll change the HT angle (currently measured at 27*) so I’ll have to do some testing to see how the steering feels.

Otherwise, find a seat, install brakes, gears, shifters, do-dads & call it a build.

 

[kingfish254]

Red Metalcast is always cool!

 

[Tallbikeman]

Very good lines on this frame. You are doing an excellent job of creating a beautiful bicycle.

 

[OddJob]

John, this frame is beautiful! The metalcast works with the flowy lines and design as well.

I like your plan to lower the front end a bit. It may change the geo some, but that could be compensated by also trying some different handlebars. The only thing I don't love about this build are the bars. A flatter bar would also take away from that 'really tall front end' look. Just a thought.

The disc brakes will really be cool on here! What is your drive train plan again?

 

[SkyknightJohn]

The disc brakes will really be cool on here! What is your drive train plan again?

7 speed rear with a triple up front. May not be the final config, but it’s what I have. Might just go with the 7 on the rear and only use the middle front sprocket until I can get a single chainring crank.

Put the fork together correctly this morning. Just pushing it around the front wheel is a little flop-happy. Lowering the front end would likely reduce that. I’d have to cut the stancions down, so I want to be sure, first.

I have the cranks on, need to add pedals and a seat to do a good rolling test.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Also have some solid, bolt on axles on the way to replace the QRs.

 

[OddJob]

I like the idea of the 1 x 7 drive. Very cool. Also will keep that beautiful frame more visible without the fr der, all the chainrings, cables, and extra shifter.

RaT oN~!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

This morning I added the crankset, cleaned and re-installed the rear sprockets (8-speed, now that I count), installed the brake disks, the front caliper and a lever, and a temporary seat.

Took her for a test roll down the neighborhood street.

She’s a no-hands bike! While at slow speeds the slack HT angle tends toward wheel flop, it’s not outlandish, and after a bit of speed rides straight as a rail. Easy S-turns down the road with only body language.

I’m a tall dude, and here the bike is adjusted to my height, with close to proper leg extension and the handlebars at a cruiser comfortable height.

For Looks there are some things I could do for cool factor, but for the ride, I think she’s a winner!

More to do yet, of course.

 

[OddJob]

I bet that steel frame rides nice! Those thinner tubes in the rear triangle might even give a bit to really accentuate the 'steel is real' ride feel.

I'm just curious, John. What are the dimensions in my diagram below?

A - Effective reach (center of seat to where you grab the handlebars, on a horizontal plane)
B - Bottom bracket height (flat ground to center of BB shell)
C - Chainstay length ( rear axle to center of BB shell)

 

[SkyknightJohn]

A) 28”
B) 10-3/8”
C) 17-1/2”
add’l : WB 48”, Seat tube 21-1/2”, Seat height 38”, Standover height 30”

For comparison, my P-40 Pilot

A) 27”
B) 10-3/4”
C) 19”
add’l : WB 42”, Seat tube 19”, Seat height 38”, Standover height 30”