Bike "fit" in regards to design



Dec 18, 2012
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Lynchburg, Va.
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My Nirve Street King is perfect for me. The bike is 49 lbs, but with the three speed internal it make up for the weight. The short apes keep my hands on a good position, my back is straight. My seat is set low. I can ride that bike 20 miles or more, no problem. When I ride my GT I-Drive 10 miles with the seat up and I'm leaning forward over the handlebars my hands go to sleep, It weighs 33 lbs. All my Dyno's & Nirve's are set for comfort & style, Weight is not a factor, that's what gears are for!
 
Feb 19, 2011
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NJ USA
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180s did, indeed, refer to cranks. Yeah, you gotta bend the knee more on the upstroke, but you get better extension on the downstroke. Almost all my cruisers run either 180s or 175s. I think I got 170s on the one, but that's just b/c they're original to the bike.
 
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There are a couple important measurements in fitting the frame. You have the distance from the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tubs, and then you have the distance from the seat tube to the head tube. The first will dictate your knee angle and the second your reach. I think you're talking mainly about the first.

Most of the vintage ballooners fit adult riders poorly. The distance from bb to top of the seat tube is usually small (18-20 inches or so). Some bikes "look" taller, but this often is because the bottom bracket is high as well, which of course doesn't help the size of the frame. All it does is raise the frame. There were a few "king size" frames made in Schwinn, Meade, etc. But those are fairly rare and highly prized. You can pick up a couple inches using the layback or figure 7 seatpost, but you may still find yourself cramped.

http://www.bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2013/05/1950-columbia-3-star-deluxe-riding.html
 
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