I will be using this diamond frame
This should be fun! good luck to everyone
This should be fun! good luck to everyone
~ BlueX ~
- Thread starter Skipton
- Start date
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Re: ~Blue X~
Looks like a good starting place. See Ya on the 15th for the next Chicago ride. 27" or 26"?
Looks like a good starting place. See Ya on the 15th for the next Chicago ride. 27" or 26"?
Re: ~Blue X~
Gary its got 26"
Getting started
Not the tire I will be using but a 26x1.95 FITS! :mrgreen:
This fork my need more engineering then I have time or skill for :roll:
It does look like my tank ideas will work :mrgreen:
Next up is to make a "seat post" out of parts from this
more to come Thanks Skip
Gary its got 26"
Getting started
Not the tire I will be using but a 26x1.95 FITS! :mrgreen:
This fork my need more engineering then I have time or skill for :roll:
It does look like my tank ideas will work :mrgreen:
Next up is to make a "seat post" out of parts from this
more to come Thanks Skip
Re: ~Blue X~
Right On!!!!
That fork will work.....you'll find a way!!!
Right On!!!!
That fork will work.....you'll find a way!!!
Re: ~Blue X~
Skip I have a 1 1/8 inch threaded tripple tree but it looks like the bearing cups are the same size as your's they measure 1 11/32 od if you could find the right size tube you could splice on 2 slices to the head tube. OR we could tig the cups right to the frame.
Gary
Skip I have a 1 1/8 inch threaded tripple tree but it looks like the bearing cups are the same size as your's they measure 1 11/32 od if you could find the right size tube you could splice on 2 slices to the head tube. OR we could tig the cups right to the frame.
Gary
Re: ~Blue X~
Thanks guys I will make the fork work....Tig the cups did cross my mind :wink:
Thanks guys I will make the fork work....Tig the cups did cross my mind :wink:
Re: ~Blue X~
Yepp, I also like that tank under the seatstays!
Yepp, I also like that tank under the seatstays!
Re: ~Blue X~
Thanks Guys!
Update....
A few months ago got this Monark Free out of the trash :wink: got the rear tank from it
I have been reading about vintage race motorcycles alot lately got this idea
When its is done there will be a bar that come out of the seat post tube on the blue frame and conncets to Monark seatstays
my inspiration
Oh Man! this is so much fun already!
Thanks Skip
MAD MR said:[
The back tank is a nice idea... I'll follow this project
Galtbacken said:Yepp, I also like that tank under the seatstays!
Thanks Guys!
Update....
A few months ago got this Monark Free out of the trash :wink: got the rear tank from it
I have been reading about vintage race motorcycles alot lately got this idea
When its is done there will be a bar that come out of the seat post tube on the blue frame and conncets to Monark seatstays
my inspiration
Oh Man! this is so much fun already!
Thanks Skip
Re: ~Blue X~
An idea for your fork issue, I had that problem many times, I avoid it by finding the right size of fork then grind the fork off the steerer so that you see the bottom half of the steerer that the forks where welded to, remove the one from the forks being used but use it to make spacers for the new steerer you cut out, this works well and makes builds look clean.
An idea for your fork issue, I had that problem many times, I avoid it by finding the right size of fork then grind the fork off the steerer so that you see the bottom half of the steerer that the forks where welded to, remove the one from the forks being used but use it to make spacers for the new steerer you cut out, this works well and makes builds look clean.
Re: ~Blue X~
Hsean
Thanks for the tip sounds like a good idea
UPDATE....
I have been trying to figure out what to use for a seat post some thing with a cool shape
Then I looked at this lying on the basement floor :roll:
a hacksaw make it into this
I think this will work just fine
I know it looks like a hack job now but weld the Monark tube to the stock seat post and the Monark seatstays I think it will
all come together
Lots more to come
Thanks Skip
Hsean
Thanks for the tip sounds like a good idea
UPDATE....
I have been trying to figure out what to use for a seat post some thing with a cool shape
Then I looked at this lying on the basement floor :roll:
a hacksaw make it into this
I think this will work just fine
I know it looks like a hack job now but weld the Monark tube to the stock seat post and the Monark seatstays I think it will
all come together
Lots more to come
Thanks Skip
Re: ~Blue X~ update 5-5
This keeps getting better and better! Would the new seat stay look mor like the moto if you flipped it so the curve is to the back and the tube met at the stub tube in the center of the new seat post tube?
Gary
This keeps getting better and better! Would the new seat stay look mor like the moto if you flipped it so the curve is to the back and the tube met at the stub tube in the center of the new seat post tube?
Gary
Re: ~Blue X~ update 5-5
Gary I agree, I am still figuring out how it all goes together, I do think the Monark stay need to be turned around and think the center piece be cut off I do like the curve going up like this not shure I can ride it :roll: nobody said it needs to be practical :lol:
Thanks stay ratty
Skip
Gary I agree, I am still figuring out how it all goes together, I do think the Monark stay need to be turned around and think the center piece be cut off I do like the curve going up like this not shure I can ride it :roll: nobody said it needs to be practical :lol:
Thanks stay ratty
Skip
Re: ~Blue X~ update 5-5
So... where goes the wily bar? :lol:
So... where goes the wily bar? :lol:
Re: ~Blue X~
Just a quick update
Got the "seatpost" location figured out pics to come
I got this seat for free at a swap meet would be a little hard to ride :shock:
I do like the springs so put this seat pan on did not even have to drill new holes
I my or my not cover it.
Got this in the mail yesterday from TheFlyingDingo :mrgreen:
Thanks Skip
Just a quick update
Got the "seatpost" location figured out pics to come
I got this seat for free at a swap meet would be a little hard to ride :shock:
I do like the springs so put this seat pan on did not even have to drill new holes
I my or my not cover it.
Got this in the mail yesterday from TheFlyingDingo :mrgreen:
Thanks Skip
Re: ~Blue X~
That seat is going to be awsome! free and fits can't wait to see your progress on Sat.
That seat is going to be awsome! free and fits can't wait to see your progress on Sat.
Re: ~Blue X~
Dude! This build is something that's been rattling around in my head for awhile, too! COOL!! I'm gonna SO steal your ideas! :lol: See 'ya Saturday!
Dude! This build is something that's been rattling around in my head for awhile, too! COOL!! I'm gonna SO steal your ideas! :lol: See 'ya Saturday!
Re: ~Blue X~
Thanks! Guys
I have decided to not use the triple trees this fork will fit better with the theme
But I have a problem......
How the heck do you get a rusty head set off with out cutting the fork?
I sparyed this thing months ago(and every day this week :roll: ) with PB Blaster. The rest of the bike came apart no problem but I can't get the fork out.
does heating with a torch work?... any other tricks?
Thanks Skip
Thanks! Guys
I have decided to not use the triple trees this fork will fit better with the theme
But I have a problem......
How the heck do you get a rusty head set off with out cutting the fork?
I sparyed this thing months ago(and every day this week :roll: ) with PB Blaster. The rest of the bike came apart no problem but I can't get the fork out.
does heating with a torch work?... any other tricks?
Thanks Skip
Re: ~Blue X~
Have you tried clamping the head tube in a vice and rapping on the top of the fork legs with a soft face hammer?
Have you tried clamping the head tube in a vice and rapping on the top of the fork legs with a soft face hammer?
Re: ~Blue X~
if you hadnt cut the frame loose id say stick the stem in a vice and then use the frame for leverage to twist it loose....but it doesnt work to well w/o the frame for a cheater bar.
cut the stem off and then use a drift punch to knock the remains of the wedge bolt/wedge out the bottom would be the easiest/fastest way
if you hadnt cut the frame loose id say stick the stem in a vice and then use the frame for leverage to twist it loose....but it doesnt work to well w/o the frame for a cheater bar.
cut the stem off and then use a drift punch to knock the remains of the wedge bolt/wedge out the bottom would be the easiest/fastest way
