Collegiate remix

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PNDRL, What is the rear caliper?
Near as I can figure, it's just a knockoff of a Dia-Compe MX 1000. I got it and a very similar one at a swap last month. I've often heard the long reach ones like this referred to as 1080s, though I don't know exactly what measurement or dimension that refers to...
 
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I don't think it's a measurement, maybe just a model name.
Dia Compe1080 vs 1020:
dsc00563_blowup.jpg

If it were a measurement, it would indicate 60 mm difference between the two. I could use a few sets of each
 
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Very informative. I'm going to have to save that chart. Seeing as I'm a big fan of putting MTB-size wheels on Collegiate/Speedster frames, I'm always on the lookout for extra-long-reach brakes.
 
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"Guess I gotta go scare up a crown race and mock up this Akisu..."
Yes please do...
I think it'd make a world of difference....
 
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I am thinking something is off.
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Shouldn't there be more clearance than this between the crown and the front wheel? Keep in mind this is a 26 x 1.75 tire. You couldn't run a 2.125 on this, I don't think. Did I unwittingly buy a 24" fork?
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For reference, this is the Fleabay-sourced Sunlite 26" cruiser fork I used on last year's build, also running a 26 x 1.75 tire.
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Side by side, big picture: last year's Sunlite on the black bike and this year's Akisu (24?) on the red bike.
forkcompare.jpg


I guess if it works and if I like the way it looks, then that's all that matters.

I picked a bunch of parts for this because I thought I'd like them, but I'm not sure I'm sold on the way it's all coming together.
 
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Honestly, I'm not the biggest fan of BMX bikes. Tha said I think the chrome fork works better for where you're going with this build.
As far as fit... if that's the tire you're going with you have no problem.
 
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Definitely a 24" fork. I ran a 24" tange (with 26"x1.95" tires) on a camelback a few years ago, just because I liked the stance. Tore it down due to excessive pedal strikes (I think I had 180s on it).
My knee-jerk reaction to the pedal strikes is that I can't use the fork. But thinking clearly about it for a minute, for whatever reason, the factory kickstand is still holding the bike up fine in this configuration, which leads me to believe it's pretty close to original height. I plan on keeping the stock crankset, so that factor isn't an issue.

It's weird. I did this yellow 26" Speedster with MTB wheels, and the original kickstand holds it up a little too high so that I have to be careful parking it. You'd think that would be even worse with the current build, but it seems just fine.
20210110_133504.jpg


I would run with it if it rides well enough, I like the look of the tight gap.

It's growing on me. Gonna keep building on it and see where it takes me.
 
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kingfish254

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Both forks look great on there. Personally, I like the red ones better, but the chrome ones do go with the bmx vibe better.
 

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My knee-jerk reaction to the pedal strikes is that I can't use the fork. But thinking clearly about it for a minute, for whatever reason, the factory kickstand is still holding the bike up fine in this configuration, which leads me to believe it's pretty close to original height.
A 26" fork would only be an 1" longer. The BB, being roughly at the halfway point between the wheels, should only be about a half inch lower with a 24" fork. My problem was mostly the cranks, the short fork just added to that. Stock cranks and you are probably golden.
 
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Tinkered for a while today. First thing I learned is that you can't always trust the mathematical formula for chain length. I wanted to leave myself the option of running the 46 tooth front sprocket, but I think I cut the chain too short.
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Not really a big deal, since my plan from the beginning was to go with the 39t inner chainring off a Varsity. Got that bolted up and it shifts fine:
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I mentioned in an earlier post that I had an ergonomic dilemma. This is the problem. Basically, the brake lever and shift lever don't play nice together. My fat little finger doesn't fit past the brake to pull the upshift trigger.
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A secondary problem is that the curve in the bar prevents me from moving the shift lever in farther to fit the shift lever, brake lever, and grip on the straight part of the bar.
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Potential solution and subsequent change of project direction forthcoming...
 
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These bars have been kicking around in my stash waiting for a purpose. They were off a crusty, abandoned mountain/hybrid type bike. They have a cool satin-ish finish that I think looks like aluminum except for the obvious fact that they rusted.
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Normally I really like the curve of stock Collegiate/Speedster bars, but in this case they wouldn't work. The brake lever, shift lever and handgrip won't fit together on the very short straight section at the end of the bar. These are a kinda similar style, but with a much longer straight section.
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I swapped them out just for giggles, and I think I like them.
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I am going to do some creative Dremeling to see if I can get things to snug up together a little tighter on the bars. And now I am thinking I have to try the original forks again. At this rate, the finished product might just end up looking like a slightly beefier Collegiate. Won't win me any points for creativity, but my primary goal here is to make a nice rider, and I think this is shaping up to do just that.
 
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Shakedown cruise with my daughter this morning.
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My concerns about reaching the shift trigger were unfounded. It all works fine just the way it is.

It's geared low, but that's the way I wanted it. I find myself shifting a lot, and the index shifter is doing its thing as intended.

Conclusion: I like everything about it except the fork. Going back to the original next.

Also, stopped by the LBS on our ride and scored this original Schwinn mattress saddle, which I think is perfect for this bike. I LOVE these things.
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Now I'd like to find some 26 x 1.75 tires that have a look similar to these, but are rated a little better than the 45 PSI that these are rated for. Anybody have suggestions?
 

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