Electra RS Klunker build
- Thread starter BartRidesEternal
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Agreed, but the effort to do so, is just as much time as designing/fabricating a new fork...... hmm
If I would alter the straight fork: grind off the original axle dropouts, and I must relocate the "drum brake tab".
I think I will design a new fork for fun, no promises on actually fabricating it!
I like the look of an old "humber" double bladed fork. You can buy a 'new' replica on classic cycle, but it is not wide enough for my tires.
You can combine this design with a:
- Straight fork.
- Klunker truss (you'll probably get this "boardtracker" looks).
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One of my bikes needed a bottom bracket bearing. A bit of dirt to blame.
When searching for a new bottom bracket I found the following:
Odyssey Dynatron USA BB
These bearings are sealed! So I ordered some more. Anyone familiar with these?
For my klunker build, I will first use my aluminum milled dustcaps:
The smaller part is an 'fork offset' ring. I wanted the front of the bike a bit more up.
The lower part of the fork tube is a bit larger diameter for the headset bearing cup ring.
So decided to mill a custom bush.
The bike company where I ordered the headset delivered the wrong one for the second time. Now I was able to change the diameter of the aluminum flange from 26.4mm to 27mm.
Fits like a glove!
Oh yeah, forgot to mention:
I used the 26" fork. I welded the sturdy drum brake tab on and painted it green, like the frame.
Interestingly, I got another bike from a co worker. The bearing was a bit rough (it sat on an attic for many years) and the bikeshop costs were too high to lubricate it... so instead of throwing it away, he sold the bike for 30 bucks.
Interesting bike this is (in master Yoda voice)
Aluminum sturdy large looptail loopy frame, 26inch wheels, Shimano CB-E110 coaster brake hub, 1 1/8 headset, drum brake tab.
It fits tires of 26x2.125, maybe even more.
A very light bike.
A bit of an Dutch cruiser bike.
The bike is practically new, it has seen 10 kilometres since my co workers granny won it.
Do you guys think this would make a cool and fast klunker bike? Geometry wise it is more interesting than my current klunker.
What are your ideas?
More Electra klunker updates soon!
When searching for a new bottom bracket I found the following:
Odyssey Dynatron USA BB
These bearings are sealed! So I ordered some more. Anyone familiar with these?
For my klunker build, I will first use my aluminum milled dustcaps:
The smaller part is an 'fork offset' ring. I wanted the front of the bike a bit more up.
The lower part of the fork tube is a bit larger diameter for the headset bearing cup ring.
So decided to mill a custom bush.
The bike company where I ordered the headset delivered the wrong one for the second time. Now I was able to change the diameter of the aluminum flange from 26.4mm to 27mm.
Fits like a glove!
Oh yeah, forgot to mention:
I used the 26" fork. I welded the sturdy drum brake tab on and painted it green, like the frame.
Interestingly, I got another bike from a co worker. The bearing was a bit rough (it sat on an attic for many years) and the bikeshop costs were too high to lubricate it... so instead of throwing it away, he sold the bike for 30 bucks.
Interesting bike this is (in master Yoda voice)
Aluminum sturdy large looptail loopy frame, 26inch wheels, Shimano CB-E110 coaster brake hub, 1 1/8 headset, drum brake tab.
It fits tires of 26x2.125, maybe even more.
A very light bike.
A bit of an Dutch cruiser bike.
The bike is practically new, it has seen 10 kilometres since my co workers granny won it.
Do you guys think this would make a cool and fast klunker bike? Geometry wise it is more interesting than my current klunker.
What are your ideas?
More Electra klunker updates soon!
It's an interesting frame ...but, I'd be suspect of that frame to headtube junction. I don't think it would withstand repeated abuse.
Agreed. I can't imagine it has the longevity you're looking for
With an aluminum frame, welding on gussets would only work if you have the ability to heat treat after welding. Which ever part you are heat treating, will need to be put in a reinforcement jig to avoid distortion during heat treating.
Depending on what aluminum it is, it will probably be weaker with gussets than it is now, if the gussets are done without heat treating.
I like the frame, I'd just shoot for a nice casual strandie over a purpose built Klunker.
Depending on what aluminum it is, it will probably be weaker with gussets than it is now, if the gussets are done without heat treating.
I like the frame, I'd just shoot for a nice casual strandie over a purpose built Klunker.
Thanks guys!
I wondered aswell. It is aluminum, so it is more sensitive to fatique. But:
- This bike is still like new.
- The sign on the bike says "utility", surely commercial terms cannot lie?
- And it cost me 30 bucks... I am all for recycling and not throwing stuff away, but still.
I let this project rest for now... first the Electra! Today I will assemble some more pieces.
That is an awesome BMX Karl! Is it yours?
Thanks again, love these suggestions and discussions!
Just had a short break from (home)work: assembled the front fork and had some ideas about mounting the front truss:
Works perfectly!
Idea: Aluminum clamp. Can file much material off.
US BB dustcover testfit.
Works perfectly!
Idea: Aluminum clamp. Can file much material off.
US BB dustcover testfit.
Thanks @karl and @nevin
Going a bit faster now, bike projects are starting to pile up: I have a weak spot for strange and cool bikes in a salvageable state and nowadays people throw their things away when some part creaks...
OK back to the klunker:
Gearing:
With the Sturmey Archer X-RD3 hub came an 18 tooth sprocket.
Electra RS Klunker: X-RD3: Gear 1 = 75%. Gear 2 = direct drive. Gear 3 = 133%.
Wheelsize: 26 inch with 2.4 inch tires = Round 690mm in diameter.
By comparison:
My Electra Ratrod commuter bike:
Coaster brake, no gearing. 26 inch with 2.35 inch tires = Round 685mm in diameter.
Gearing = 44 - 22. I can go really fast on this thing, even though I do not have a sporty seating position. So I am going to choose the Klunkers direct drive close to this one.
My 24 inch Klunker bike:
24 inch with 3.0 inch tires = 640mm in diameter. Gearing = 42 - 19.
This is near perfect (for me) on a singlespeed mountainbike. I can cycle uphill and still do some serious sprints. Long straight tarmac sections require an extra gear though...
Conclusion: I am a bit lazy to calculate it, hence the comparison above.
My goal: Uphill sections are manageable, no problem if I have to walk the really steep sections. Direct drive should be used most of the time, going pretty fast, around 25 km/hr max. The 3rd drive is used for longer fast pieces of tarmac. Going around 30+ km/hr with a group.
Ideally the direct drive is 3rd gear, but with most 3-speed hubs, it is the 2nd gear.
The Electra Klunker probably gets:
44 - 22 or 44 - 24
More pictures:
Truss mockup and stance.
Going a bit faster now, bike projects are starting to pile up: I have a weak spot for strange and cool bikes in a salvageable state and nowadays people throw their things away when some part creaks...
OK back to the klunker:
- Dustcaps done, they fit very good! There is still a tiny wobble, almost can't see it. Because the center hole is located over the crank thread. No collision though!
- Crank is removed and re-assembled with the dustcaps. and loooots of grease!
- Truss assembly and fabrication.
- Chain and sprockets.
Gearing:
With the Sturmey Archer X-RD3 hub came an 18 tooth sprocket.
Electra RS Klunker: X-RD3: Gear 1 = 75%. Gear 2 = direct drive. Gear 3 = 133%.
Wheelsize: 26 inch with 2.4 inch tires = Round 690mm in diameter.
By comparison:
My Electra Ratrod commuter bike:
Coaster brake, no gearing. 26 inch with 2.35 inch tires = Round 685mm in diameter.
Gearing = 44 - 22. I can go really fast on this thing, even though I do not have a sporty seating position. So I am going to choose the Klunkers direct drive close to this one.
My 24 inch Klunker bike:
24 inch with 3.0 inch tires = 640mm in diameter. Gearing = 42 - 19.
This is near perfect (for me) on a singlespeed mountainbike. I can cycle uphill and still do some serious sprints. Long straight tarmac sections require an extra gear though...
Conclusion: I am a bit lazy to calculate it, hence the comparison above.
My goal: Uphill sections are manageable, no problem if I have to walk the really steep sections. Direct drive should be used most of the time, going pretty fast, around 25 km/hr max. The 3rd drive is used for longer fast pieces of tarmac. Going around 30+ km/hr with a group.
Ideally the direct drive is 3rd gear, but with most 3-speed hubs, it is the 2nd gear.
The Electra Klunker probably gets:
44 - 22 or 44 - 24
More pictures:
Truss mockup and stance.
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my single speed gearing experience is limited (and i know your have a 3speed hub), but i always felt that the old bmx standard gearing was pretty much my preference. 44, 16? (2.75) if i remember correctly.... i tried a couple other chainrings (down to 36), but always came back to the 44/16 ratio. this was also mostly flat town riding, only hitting the hidden bmx tracks in the woods once in a blue moon.
(there was one behind the cemetery, and another one only accessible by following the train tracks for a bit till you got to the "entrance")
i wouldn't be able to do this ratio now because of where i live (more rural, almost every road around here is a hill, some quite steep)... and my age now....
just playing with the numbers & your hub...
if 42 chainring
- 75% feel like = 31.5tooth (i know there's no half tooth, just 75% of the 42)
- 100% = 42tooth
- 133% feel like = 55.86tooth
if 44 chainring
- 75% feel like = 33tooth
- 100% = 44tooth
- 133% feel like = 58.52tooth
if you're unsure, you could do a two piece chainring and experiment until you found what really works for you. (better than puling the crank apart)
(there was one behind the cemetery, and another one only accessible by following the train tracks for a bit till you got to the "entrance")
i wouldn't be able to do this ratio now because of where i live (more rural, almost every road around here is a hill, some quite steep)... and my age now....
just playing with the numbers & your hub...
if 42 chainring
- 75% feel like = 31.5tooth (i know there's no half tooth, just 75% of the 42)
- 100% = 42tooth
- 133% feel like = 55.86tooth
if 44 chainring
- 75% feel like = 33tooth
- 100% = 44tooth
- 133% feel like = 58.52tooth
if you're unsure, you could do a two piece chainring and experiment until you found what really works for you. (better than puling the crank apart)
Thanks Nevin,
I decided on a 44 front (the original Electra RS front chainring).
The rear for now is a 24 tooth cog. I will just feel how it goes.
Do you like to ride really fast too? How did you use your BMX 44-16 geared bikes?
The best comparison right now is my "Electra Ratrod" daily rider:
44 - 22 tooth with 26x2.35 wheels. Singlespeed coasterbrake.
I can "flat track" it really hard over gravel paths still being able to cycle uphill a bit.
A while back I made an average of 26km/hr on a 12km ride to work with the Ratrod, that was fun!
Back to the Electra RS updates:
Yesterday, made some progress while listening to the "Rush Hemispheres" album, gave me some inspiration.
Remember the aluminum clamp? I filed it to another shape and form. Drilled a new center hole. The curved truss should fit though it now.
I have a weak spot for old bicycles and wing nuts...
Clamp for pressing eyes on a tube. This clamp is actually for 15-20mm tubes...
Testfit to where the hole should be.
Holes drilled + the eyelets filed and rounded.
You can't see it anymore, but I sealed the eyelet ends with some sealant and a lockring, so the bolt can never get out on its own. Like a locknut.
Not sure about the tipped front of the clamp. I can round it a bit more...
Don't mind the mess on my attic
Next up: Connection between the "cantilever posts" and the truss.
looking really good. that sunset shot is beautiful.
my BMX was my only bike for a long time and rode it all over town. distances were obviously more challenging.
i didn't start really going distances until i got a mountin bike and quickly put 1.75 street tires on it. then i would ride out a lot farther, going a couple towns over, say 15-30 miles round trip.
44/24 will be a bit easier off the line and uphill, but a little slower full out than 44/16.
might actually be a better setup depending on your normal rides & area/terrain.
the nice thing is you have a little gearing in the hub to give you a little more flexibility when you want to go a little faster or get up a hill easier.
if you run this setup for a while, like the gearing but still feels a bit sluggish, try switching to a 1.75 tire instead of the 2.35 especially if you do more road/in town riding. can still be knobby, but a thinner tire feels quicker & feels like it responds quicker. the tread pattern we used to run was the old "comp III" pattern. (i never really liked 2.125 tires)
love the home made truss rod, nice job! gives it more the old vintage look without actually being a springer fork.
my BMX was my only bike for a long time and rode it all over town. distances were obviously more challenging.
i didn't start really going distances until i got a mountin bike and quickly put 1.75 street tires on it. then i would ride out a lot farther, going a couple towns over, say 15-30 miles round trip.
44/24 will be a bit easier off the line and uphill, but a little slower full out than 44/16.
might actually be a better setup depending on your normal rides & area/terrain.
the nice thing is you have a little gearing in the hub to give you a little more flexibility when you want to go a little faster or get up a hill easier.
if you run this setup for a while, like the gearing but still feels a bit sluggish, try switching to a 1.75 tire instead of the 2.35 especially if you do more road/in town riding. can still be knobby, but a thinner tire feels quicker & feels like it responds quicker. the tread pattern we used to run was the old "comp III" pattern. (i never really liked 2.125 tires)
love the home made truss rod, nice job! gives it more the old vintage look without actually being a springer fork.
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So I made an number plate of thin aluminum.
I like the idea, but not convinced yet:
(Picture the wood in a darker stain (or black) and a big number on there).
What are your thoughts?
I like the idea, but not convinced yet:
(Picture the wood in a darker stain (or black) and a big number on there).
What are your thoughts?
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
I like the product, but positioning/size is a little unusual. Not very visible, will be obstructed by chain and legs and feet on the pedals. I know it isn't actually a race bike, but originally, the purpose of the plate was for easy identification. Do you have any wide shots if the bike with it in place?
Am I being pedantic? Maybe! The wooden bracket looks like a knife handle. Killer!
Am I being pedantic? Maybe! The wooden bracket looks like a knife handle. Killer!
Bingo ^
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
This got salty fast
