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one thing you can do when filling the rear tank area with the 'glass filler is to drill some small holes in the tank end to anchor it more just put some clear tape behind tank or on the small tube to prevent from sticking to the small tube you have there and on the frame but you probably already know that just suggesting ;) as I would work with it mounted to get the best fit.
 
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Thanks for all of the input everyone. I'm still not so sure about the mesh. Maybe if it's painted black it would work or possibly something other than the honeycomb pattern. We'll see.

Ok, so the reason that I revealed the skirt guards yesterday is because its finally time to mount the tank! I've been postponing the tank until the glass shop could catch up with inventory. I try to keep several on hand so that I can ship quickly when I get orders. I'm not complaining, but within two weeks of starting the build off I sold five sets and wiped out my stock. Anyway, I now have more on the shelf and I'm ready to go!

You may be wondering what the skirt guards have to do with mounting the tank. The reason is the lines. Consistent lines are very important to me when I build my bikes. I'm not afraid to pull out the laser level if necessary!:chicken: :bigsmile: The skirt guards have very straight lines in them that I want to carry over to the tank.

First I used a level on the guards and then I marked the centerline on the light bullets with masking tape to be able to level the tank more accurately.

Here's the tank propped up in place...

View attachment 25125
Now it's time to make some fiberglass dust!:banana:

consistent lines are my pet peeve also, having some difficulty on my build with fenders but will get it done other half says I am always to dang fussy but being a ex restorer of muscle cars and building hotrods its in me. This build is looking great :thumbsup:
 
@Blackout , it will be a small piece but I will drill some holes for a better bond. Thanks.

I've been wanting to mount the front fender, so today I worked on that instead of the tank. To get it to fit in the proper radius with the wheel, the fender needed to be raised and the center hole relocated. To raise the fender I had to create a dimple for the top. The side dimples where close but I did have to reshape them some.

I first cut a slot across the end of a 2x4 (cut down to about 2x3) and clamped it in my bench vise. I used this as a buck and layed the fender over it and slowly worked back and forth across the fender with a blunt chisel and hammer. As you can see it took a lot the get it to the right depth. It still needs about another 1/8" but I stopped for the day. It's very close!
Fender dimple.jpg
 
Skillz ! anyone would have just cut it out , but you mange to shape it like its ment to be there :113:
 
Looking great R-Man . A few miner hurtles but your get over them with ease . Looks like this will be another killer bike . [emoji106]


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Thanks ya'll.
I finished the dimples and put it back together to see how it looks. The fender brace is just to hold the fender in place for a mock up. I actually sort of like it on the outside of the fender, but I've got ideas for that later as I make my way back to it. I also stuck one of the crash bars on the fork.

Fenders are another one of those things that I'm very picky about. It's hard to get them perfect, but I like for them to match the radius of the wheel as closely as possible.

I can live with this now!
front fender mockup.jpg



This photo back on May 4 was how it looked bolted up through the original center hole.
index.php
 
Nice bold stance . The tank being out over the front fender that far really adds to the look . Gives it a long & racy look . Fenders are one of those parts that can really make or break the look ....


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Wow you're getting good at the DIY metal forming. That looks factory.

Looking cool...was going to comment on the gap in the green skirt but I'm guessing that's for the chain to pass through and will get covered by a chain guard?
 
Man, it didn't take long to get two pages behind on your work. I love how those fatty fenders are looking. I may just need to keep the ones on the Firestone I have for future use.
 
That skirt and fender combination look beefy and tuff. Looking really good![emoji106] [emoji106]
I love how those fatty fenders are looking. I may just need to keep the ones on the Firestone I have for future use.
Thanks guys, There's nothing like the Monark fenders for beefy and fat!
Nice bold stance . The tank being out over the front fender that far really adds to the look . Gives it a long & racy look . Fenders are one of those parts that can really make or break the look ....
I agree! The tank doesn't look that far forward anymore with the front fender in place but I do like it like that!
Wow you're getting good at the DIY metal forming. That looks factory.
Looking cool...was going to comment on the gap in the green skirt but I'm guessing that's for the chain to pass through and will get covered by a chain guard?
Thanks Chad. Someone had cut the original Higgins chain guard off with a torch before I got it. The skirt guard and chain guard are actually two pieces and I'll be taking the guard section off and replacing it with a Western Flyer guard. That may be the next thing that I'll be doing this week.

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On another note, I found this cool art deco looking door handle at the flea market this weekend and I think I've found a place to use it!:)
door handle.jpg
 
If that old door handle is going to be a shifter, it would be funny as I had been looking for an old 30s-style door handle like that for that purpose earlier on.
 
I noticed a minor detail brother.
Trailing ends of the fenders,
Do you want them the same?
I only say this because I've seen how meticulous you are...

Carl.

The ground clearance at the rear is pretty close to the same as the front which is what I was shooting for. I still have to go back and cut the correct contour on the rear to match the front.
 
ugh, I missed that post. I should've known better...

Carl.

sent from my banana phone...
 

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