Even a 320 grit, if you wet it slightly, will leave a pretty smooth and clean finish. I have a home made aluminum polishing method / solution if you are planning on shining it up at all. Used it on my Fisher CR7 build in BO 13.
Felt Heavy Duty
- Thread starter toro1978
- Start date
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Nice finish. I don't want it too shiny, but I have to go over the frame once more to get rid of paint traces anyway.
I am basically done with the head tube, except for the lower cup, but the welds are really stubborn.
I think in the end it wasn't powder coated. The down tube and the tank really killed me though.
I am basically done with the head tube, except for the lower cup, but the welds are really stubborn.
I think in the end it wasn't powder coated. The down tube and the tank really killed me though.
OK... I have only the top of the BB and the dropouts left to sand.
I am also happy to report that I found an used "nexus auto D", which is an electronic automatic shifter for the nexus 3 bell crank type hub.
It is bigger and heavier than I expected. It looks like the front bracket would attach to a kickstand mount... However I want to install it on my Felt Torch, (so I can have cleaner bars and less cables) which of course has an integrated kickstand. Luckily the brackets are bolted to the shifter so I can easily use other brackets.
I am particularly happy that it came with the shiny bell crank. I have a black one and wanted to replace it with a silver one.
I haven't tried if it works yet. I hope so.
I am also happy to report that I found an used "nexus auto D", which is an electronic automatic shifter for the nexus 3 bell crank type hub.
It is bigger and heavier than I expected. It looks like the front bracket would attach to a kickstand mount... However I want to install it on my Felt Torch, (so I can have cleaner bars and less cables) which of course has an integrated kickstand. Luckily the brackets are bolted to the shifter so I can easily use other brackets.
I am particularly happy that it came with the shiny bell crank. I have a black one and wanted to replace it with a silver one.
I haven't tried if it works yet. I hope so.
So... I have a few small spots plus the BB and the frame is done.
I found that the night mode of my phone camera is much better for shooting indoors instead of the flash.
A partial mock up:
I found that the night mode of my phone camera is much better for shooting indoors instead of the flash.
A partial mock up:
Yeah i found one of these too, never saw it before. They are huge!
I saw you are from Germany, i found mine in Germany too, on eBay.de.
I'm using it on my buildoff entry
.Are you using it on this bike of another bike?
PS your bike looks mean in raw aluminum!
Always wanted to do this too but i always thought it was too much work haha..
If you ever need any help setting up your gears of your chainline let me know!
Always wanted to do this too but i always thought it was too much work haha..
If you ever need any help setting up your gears of your chainline let me know!
There are many but usually it says "not tested" in the adds. This was one was supposeably functional so I bought it.
I wanted it for my Torch.
I can't use it on this bike because the automatic has a bell crank, but the hub I am using has a cassette joint.
Actually now that I think it would probably work with a cassette joint too if I remove the bell crank. Then attach the cable as usual to the cassette joint.
But I want dual gear levers so no automatic on this bike.
The frame was a lot of work but I declare it done and I don't want to touch it again. Not with sand paper at least. I will be done with the rack tomorrow. Then assembly.
I wanted it for my Torch.
I can't use it on this bike because the automatic has a bell crank, but the hub I am using has a cassette joint.
Actually now that I think it would probably work with a cassette joint too if I remove the bell crank. Then attach the cable as usual to the cassette joint.
But I want dual gear levers so no automatic on this bike.
The frame was a lot of work but I declare it done and I don't want to touch it again. Not with sand paper at least. I will be done with the rack tomorrow. Then assembly.
Getting aluminum down to level is a lot of work, but the result is sooooo worth it. Double or triple that work if you decided you wanted to polish it.
It looks awesome with the current finish in my opinion. I have one of these aluminum Felt frames that I want to strip down one day.
I like how much fatter the tank section is on these models than the steel Felts.
It looks awesome with the current finish in my opinion. I have one of these aluminum Felt frames that I want to strip down one day.
I like how much fatter the tank section is on these models than the steel Felts.
I was right at the start of the paint removal and this fellow on the German FB page had a whole Felt hot wheels. Minus the wheels. So it had the frame stripped bare, it had a rigid triple tree installed, and had the chain guard, fenders, and the tires, bars, seat, grips. And he was willing to give it all up for 200.
So we went back and forth but in the end I had to pass, mostly for logistics reasons.
The Felt tank frame is one of my favorites. Could have been a bit bigger though.
So we went back and forth but in the end I had to pass, mostly for logistics reasons.
The Felt tank frame is one of my favorites. Could have been a bit bigger though.
So I was assembling it...
And suddenly:
Uhhh...
Anyone has a diy hack how to remove that kickstand?
And suddenly:
Uhhh...
Anyone has a diy hack how to remove that kickstand?
So, I have encountered problems. I can't get that pin out. I can't press the whole ring, but at least the bottom part, where the pin sits is pressed all the way, the upper part at least halfway. When I try to pull the pin out it doesn't bulge to the point where the pliers start taking chunks out of it.
So I am unsure how to proceed. An easy way to get it out is simply to cut two grooves on the left and on the right of the pin so the metal holding it is simply cut away. This will however render the mount useless for future use so I am hesitant. Then this will leave me with the empty housing which then I should probably cut off. Which is another issue since the BB doesn't allow for a very easy access from the one side. Also I am positive that aluminum is soft enough, but still I don't know how thick those welds are. I have also misplaced my replacement hacksaw blades but I can at least go out and buy them in 10 minutes.
So I am unsure how to proceed. An easy way to get it out is simply to cut two grooves on the left and on the right of the pin so the metal holding it is simply cut away. This will however render the mount useless for future use so I am hesitant. Then this will leave me with the empty housing which then I should probably cut off. Which is another issue since the BB doesn't allow for a very easy access from the one side. Also I am positive that aluminum is soft enough, but still I don't know how thick those welds are. I have also misplaced my replacement hacksaw blades but I can at least go out and buy them in 10 minutes.
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Here's a thread from awhile back that addressed that problem:
https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/felt-cruiser-kickstand-problems.25187/
https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/felt-cruiser-kickstand-problems.25187/
This is the first thread I found when I started looking. Somehow I ignored the link though. Thanks, wildcat I had a second look and found a very detailed description with photos.
I couldn't use a pipe wrench because the ones I have are just a little too small.
I was able to implement the clamp method though.
I was given a tool box a while ago and it had mostly screws, but also a few clamps.
I also found my hacksaw blades:
... which happy event made the whole ordeal almost effortless.
So in no time I had cut through an old seat post to make a dedicated tool to fit around the crank:
And then I fastened it with the clamp:
I was afraid that it would slip away, but luckily it held.
I paid attention to use the seat post end for the part that faces the ring so it can press it properly without the housing being in the way. As you see it is properly pressed in.
And indeed, the pin simply fell out:
That stand looks massive (despite probably being shorter than a typical mtb axle mounted kickstand).
It looks like something you can kills zombies with.
In order to position the clamp I had to remove the crankset. I am happy that this chain has a master link (which has the cap on the inside so it can go freely through the derailer).
I couldn't use a pipe wrench because the ones I have are just a little too small.
I was able to implement the clamp method though.
I was given a tool box a while ago and it had mostly screws, but also a few clamps.
I also found my hacksaw blades:
... which happy event made the whole ordeal almost effortless.
So in no time I had cut through an old seat post to make a dedicated tool to fit around the crank:
And then I fastened it with the clamp:
I was afraid that it would slip away, but luckily it held.
I paid attention to use the seat post end for the part that faces the ring so it can press it properly without the housing being in the way. As you see it is properly pressed in.
And indeed, the pin simply fell out:
That stand looks massive (despite probably being shorter than a typical mtb axle mounted kickstand).
It looks like something you can kills zombies with.
In order to position the clamp I had to remove the crankset. I am happy that this chain has a master link (which has the cap on the inside so it can go freely through the derailer).
Getting ready for a gearing test:
I was going to test the brake actuation idea, but I realized that a brake cable won't go through the cable stop because gearing cables are thinner.
So I will try to find a usable cable and housing for the test before I buy new. This might be too careful though, I suspect that the spacing between gears on Shimano shifters and derailers for the front gears are very similar in pull, if not identical.
There is my signature v-brake nut on the reaction arm bolt:
And the bracket for the front brake reaction arm, which some of you have already seen when this wheels and fork were installed on the fully:
I was going to test the brake actuation idea, but I realized that a brake cable won't go through the cable stop because gearing cables are thinner.
So I will try to find a usable cable and housing for the test before I buy new. This might be too careful though, I suspect that the spacing between gears on Shimano shifters and derailers for the front gears are very similar in pull, if not identical.
There is my signature v-brake nut on the reaction arm bolt:
And the bracket for the front brake reaction arm, which some of you have already seen when this wheels and fork were installed on the fully:
Also I have this green spot and it is a thorn in my eyes. I am going to get some silver nail polish and just apply it to it. Along with the few spots on the joints.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
V brake nuts everywhere!
I started a collection of them, inspired by your earlier builds. Might make an appearance in my Build Off project too
I started a collection of them, inspired by your earlier builds. Might make an appearance in my Build Off project too
I have mocked up the shifters and the result is very underwhelming:
By the way this shim is made from the middle part of a pair of handlebars I had cut up. It is effectively 1" to 7/8" (25,4 to 22 mm)
First of all, I think it is a hideous setup. Yes it is rat, but also ugly as a rat. I could actually live with the ugliness, however the positioning is weird. They are kind of offset. The nexus cable is very close to the stem cap, but it could work.
The worst is probably how different the shifters are.
I could use some box to cover the whole thing... I could hold it with those brackets on the bars on one end and with bar plugs on the other, on the piece of bars that I will use to mount the shifters. So then when I come up with the sticks only the sticks should protrude from the box. Like a console on a muscle bike. Now that might actually work.
By the way this shim is made from the middle part of a pair of handlebars I had cut up. It is effectively 1" to 7/8" (25,4 to 22 mm)
First of all, I think it is a hideous setup. Yes it is rat, but also ugly as a rat. I could actually live with the ugliness, however the positioning is weird. They are kind of offset. The nexus cable is very close to the stem cap, but it could work.
The worst is probably how different the shifters are.
I could use some box to cover the whole thing... I could hold it with those brackets on the bars on one end and with bar plugs on the other, on the piece of bars that I will use to mount the shifters. So then when I come up with the sticks only the sticks should protrude from the box. Like a console on a muscle bike. Now that might actually work.
I'm sure you'll get your shift together and figure out something that works for you.
Don't forget to put your marker on the BO16 Builders Map
https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/bo16-builders-map-go-ahead-and-set-your-marker.113951/
Don't forget to put your marker on the BO16 Builders Map
https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/bo16-builders-map-go-ahead-and-set-your-marker.113951/
I have a couple of sets of these wonderful bar plugs:
So I decided to install them. But...
So I decided to install them. But...
Should Mr. Genius Engineer apply lubricant or brute force?
