Hawg Wylde, my 1962 Schwinn Typhoon 20" Pig Bike Build Off #17 Class 1 Entry.

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Oldbikeguy1960

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Since I was having so much trouble with moving my entry into the Build Off #17 I did the next best thing. I am starting a new build thread and moving the important bits to this thread.

That allows it to be here with all the other build threads and lets me post my project name.
Hawg Wylde.
 
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Oldbikeguy1960

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First progress report on the Schwinn Typhoon 20" Pig Bike project. No name yet but one will come to me, probably in my sleep like most of my ideas do. That is scary, even to me.
I have unspoked 2 wheels, my front 20x1.75 drum brake wheel and an ACS hub rear that is 20x1-3/8. I am putting the brake hub on the lightweight rim. I will post photos and my unprogress report later today.
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The lightweight wheel before I butchered it.
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OK, I lied. My adopted cat Jax took the wheel apart for me while I watched and learned.

Now I need to buy at least 18 14g spokes at 194mm. 18 of the spokes from this wheel are the right length to fit the drum hub. 18 spokes from the other wheel would've fit the other side but they are Cadmium plated and the others are Stainless. And never the twain shall meet.
 
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Oldbikeguy1960

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I bought a Spaceliner chainguard, the one with the louver slots cut in it. I was going to try it on my wheelie bike and if I liked it I was going to put the Flaming Stack Orange backing on it.

Then I thought. Let's pause here a moment and ponder that. I thought. Those words have done everything from write love songs to start wars. Now back to the story at hand.

I thought maybe I would try it on the Typhoon Pig Bike. Now I am changing the plan and running with this chainguard with a Red backing behind the louver holes. Kind of a George Barris/Iverson meets Huffy Flaming Stack.

I am going to clean off the Spaceliner logo area (GASP!) and maybe have a decal made to put in its place. Fold over the rear mounting tab and put a chrome bracket from there to the frame.
20220218_150153.jpg

This is a rough idea of what I have going on that so far. If this bike would've really been built in the early 1960s it would've pre-dated the Super Deluxe Stingray, the Krate series for drum brake wheels and the Huffy Rail for the tall sissybar and Flaming Stack chainguard.

Who else have I ripped off building this bike?
Will this ever end? Will this bike ever be finished? Will I be judged mentally incompetent and be committed to a sanitarium?
Who knows, but it has been a fun ride so far.
Until later, Rob
 
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Oldbikeguy1960

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These are some of the main parts of the bike build. I tried to transfer the pages from the other thread but it is like faxing a fax. The copies degraded by adding a bunch of Click to expand lines and I hate those things.

So we can do this the easy way or the hard way. Except the easy way turned out to be harder than the hard way but I am used to that by now.

I am going back into my Gallery and pulling all the important photos and then I will do the commentary as I go
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I have enough of the matching vinyl to make a full length sissybar pad for the 5' tall sissybar I will be bending myself from 5/8" tubing.
Screenshot_20220506-200537_Samsung Internet.jpg

Handlebars are 1960s Chopper bars I got in a pile of parts for a Triumph Chopper. I need to put the bushing on them to make them fit a bicycle stem.
Screenshot_20220506-200632_Samsung Internet.jpg
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The Archer (Radio Shack) Radio is AM/FM. I know that isnt early 1960s but lets be honest. AM radio stations like WLS Chicago are no longer playing 1960s/70s rock and I need a certain amount of music daily so if I am riding this bike I must be jammin' man
Screenshot_20220419-232219_Gallery.jpg

OK, so I may have gone overboard on the red parts and accessories but there will be lots of chrome to offset it including custom cut bobbed fenders that end up looking a lot like Stingray fenders.

Sure it would be easier to buy Stingray fenders but they were not available in 1962 so I decided to cut my own. I need one rear 20" Balloon fender and one 20" lightweight fender.

Yes the bike frame is going back to Candy Red paint as original with only the seat tube decals and a headbadge. Maybe an Excelsior or Henderson reproduction.

I should clear up that I am using a lot of reproduction parts because they are reasonable and look pretty much like the original parts. As long as the originals were made no later than the early 1960s and the reproductions are good replicas of the originals those are my only requirements.

I am probably going to build my own shifters from the 6-1/2" tall Hurst Competition Plus levers and whatever else I can put together to fit them to the frame. More on that as it plays out.
 
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Oldbikeguy1960

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The pedals are even custom, a combination of reproduction Torrington jeweled pedals and the reproduction Wald sunrise end caps.
Screenshot_20220506-200338_Samsung Internet.jpg
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I am making my headlight and taillight from an old Delta Flashlight. I have already dismantled it.
The headlamp will be 4-1/2" diameter bulb and I am working on an LED conversion that will look like the stock lens, not glowing Flies Eyes.
Screenshot_20220506-200442_Samsung Internet.jpg
I am using an old Ash Flash lantern case to hold an AGM battery to power the headlight and tailight. I will be stripping the handle and both lights leaving only the empty case with the switches for the headlight and taillight.

I may use another case to make a small toolbox but that is not for sure yet. The case is not quite as big as I thought it would be. Still, it would hold a small patch kit, tire levers and an adjustable wrench or two. Maybe even a couple small screwdrivers?
Screenshot_20220506-200739_Samsung Internet.jpg

I am thinking special jeweled reflectors on the grip ends but I am not showing them until they are finished.
 
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Oldbikeguy1960

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Soon I will post photos of my early 1950s style Phantom fork. I have cleaned the remnants of orange paint off of it.
Here is a photo of it with the original brake wheel I bought. I am respoking the hub onto a 20"x1-3/8" lightweight rim.
Screenshot_20220506-200806_Samsung Internet.jpg

Yes I assembled it backwards but it was intentional. It gives the fork a little rake while (theoretically) still steering normal and it should sit close to the height of a Krate bike.
I have to buy a chrome 1" ID spacer for the top of the fork. Luckily for me the axle on late Harleys is 1" ID and the spacers come in what seems like a hundred lengths. I believe I will need about a 1-1/4" tall chrome spacer.
 
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Oldbikeguy1960

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The Hurst levers that will form the main part of the Shifting mechanism. The right lever will operate the internal 4 speed hub I am building.
The left lever will operate the totally homemade Hub Gear conversion done with 3 Sturmey archer sprockets, an 1/2" offset 22 tooth, a normal offset 18 tooth and a normal offset 14 tooth, all chrome of course.
A hub gear conversion basically puts 2-3 sprockets on an internal hub bike to give a gear multiplication system. My bike will have 12 speeds without a front derailleur or multiple front sprockets. Because of my wide range hub and wide range sprocket cluster I will be able to run a 52 tooth front sprocket for maximum danger and ludicrous speed.
I thought about a 62 tooth excersize bike sprocket but it will be hard to fit my chainguard as it is. But who knows.....
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Oldbikeguy1960

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Thanks man, I appreciate the compliment!
I promise it will get more dizzying as it comes along. I havent even started yet!
Thanks again, Rob
 

Oldbikeguy1960

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I did get photos of the fork sans orange paint. As much as I love an orange bike, the paint on the chrome fork wasn't working for me.
HeIl, I am going to replace all the fasteners on the fork with the chrome Schwinn parts and polish out the fork as best as I can. I am even buying the chrome AS bolt kit to use them for the stem wedge and handlebar clamp bolts.
I just checked my disposable income and I have $1.13 left. I obviously have more money than sense.
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Oldbikeguy1960

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I bought a lens and bulb assembly from a Lightbox flashlight to replace my sealed beam bulb in my Delta Flashlight/Headlight project.

I wanted a lens I could put an LED bulb on and this lens was 99% perfect. It wouldve been 100% but I had to file about .010 off of the circumference. (Something I could not have done with a glass bulb).

My plan is to use the either a 3 pin LED bulb for bright and dim settings.
If that is not feasable I will use a Maglite conversion LED bulb. I believe it will push right in.

Here below is the lens assembly as purchased.
Screenshot_20220513-114413_eBay.jpg
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Here below is the homemade headlamp with the Lightbox Streamlight lens conversion. This is a PAR36 bulb which means it is 4-1/4" in diameter.
The 36 is 36/8ths, similar to measuring -an fittings. This is how light bulb sizes are standardized.
20220513_150743.jpg

The bulb on the right was the 6 volt sealed beam that was in it. Power draw was the only reason for me to change it for an LED bulb.
The photo below is the top view. The bulb curves outward just like the original sealed beam did.
20220513_150752.jpg
 

Oldbikeguy1960

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Gratuitous attempts at Hawgging all the fun.

Screenshot_20220528-065553_eBay.jpg

I appreciate all the free advertizing, but could you spell the name right next time?
Its HAWG WYLDE!
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Hawg ring?

Seriously though, I was cleaning up the shed for the next batch of kittens and I found my Black Diamond blasting sand. Now I can FINALLY blast my way through the gawdawful old and badly unpigmented paint (looks worse in person) and replace it with some equally gawdawful but shiny new Flamboyant Red substitute paint.
If it looks good when I am finished I will tell you what I used. Otherwise I will deny the whole thing and hide all the evidence.
 

Oldbikeguy1960

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I found a thread on making brass headbadges. Like I needed another subproject for this build project.
However, making my own is waaaay cheaper than paying the places I found so far that would do it for me.
We will see. Oh yesss. We will see.
 
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Oldbikeguy1960

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Looking back, and seeing ahead I may have gone with a Chrome Monark Springer instead of the Schwinn Phantom 1995 reproduction I bought.
I guess Only Time Will Tell if this part changes. I could always use that fork on another frame.
I am definitely using a pair of 6" tall Hurst Shifters. That gives me an excuse to use a 2"×2" Hurst Shifter decal (or two or three) on the bike.
Like I have ever needed an excuse to do anything.
Ever.
 

Oldbikeguy1960

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Yesterday and today I started and finished sandblasting my frame. It should've taken about half an hour but my monster compressor is in storage. I was using my DeWalt 20 gallon upright with no extra tank capacity. Since I forgot to take photos you will have to trust me on this one.
I put on 2 light coats of rust oxide primer, and 2 coats of chrome aluminum base coat.
Then I laid 2 light coats and 1 medium coat of Plastì-Coat Metalcast Red, which comes out like Candy Apple Red or more importantly like Schwinn Flamboyant Red. They also sell that paint line in Blue, Purple, Green, Orange and a couple other colors I believe.
It isn't perfect but I think it is good enough. I am usually pretty picky so maybe it looks better than I think.
When the decals come I will clearcoat it but I have to wait at least 7 days to coat over the Plasti-Coat paint.
Photos below.
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Oldbikeguy1960

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I am in Central Illinois. I lived on a small farm as a little rat but moved to the city at 13. I live about 1 mile from that farm now, but in a mobile home park in the country. I am allergic to most of Illinois so 3 seasons here are an adventure, but nowhere near as bad as it was when I was young.
The field with the baby corn is behind my metal shed I made from a carport and extra metal I salvaged. Unfortunately it is so full of crap I cannot bring myself to part with that I cannot do much but look at it.
The bright side is that it has housed a lot of the parts I am using for this project.
Thanks to you and everyone else as well for the likes and comments. They help me to feel I am on the right track with this.
Rob
 
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Holy Parts Stash, you have a pile of goodies lined up for this build. Gonna be fun to follow along.

Nice paint color. Please post up what brands of paint you used, getting them all to play nicely without lifting is a challenge sometimes.
 
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