Thanks to everyone for their compliments, encouragement and suggestions!
Any creation is an expression of ones self. How it comes together is sometimes the hardest part. Not everything can work in the way the mind sees it. I have been fortunate in that most of what I am seeing is becoming a functioning, useful work that others can appreciate no matter what their personal passions may be.
I appreciate the ideas and creativity of all the projects and ideas I see here in the same way. RatRod, RestoMod, Custom. Restoration or whatever name you build under, the result is the same. A work of art you can ride.
Thanks for accepting my visions.
Later today I will be posting the first of the final stages photos, and a shot of my homemade crank bearing race installer tool. That one is kinda boring, but one day you may be thankful I made you endure it.
The bike is starting to take shape, but I still need to build the shifters and bend the sissybar. The decals are done and the headbadge has taken shape. I am looking for the original so I can drill the holes in the new one to match.
I am also looking for my reproduction Schwinn 5 speed chainguard so I can rob the brackets off it to mount this one the way I want to.
I may mount some accessories on the handlebars today since I have them mounted on the stock style gooseneck. I bought a set of 7/8" to 1" spacers for motorcycle bars (since the bars I am using are for a motorcycle they do not have the center to fit a regular neck) and they worked perfectly.
The Tomahawk neck will not be finished in time for the Build Off end date so I am using a 1960 (my birth year) neck with the cool Schwinn AS bolts. It looks nice enough to me this way but it is a bit of a letdown over the Tomahawk neck.
I will know today about my shifters, I have a bid on one Hurst Indy short stick now and if it comes through I am buying one to match on a Buy it Now.
Thats all for now, I will be back on in the next 12 hours with more info and photos. I am warning you now just in case you want to find something better to do.
Like suffer from a hangover.
Here are the photos I promised earlier this morning.
I knew how much it would excite everyone, so I thought I would show my homemade crank cup installer
It is part of a race and seal driver kit, but I need one more small end to make it work properly.
Now a couple shots from noon or so today. Check out those superwide bars from a 1960s Triumph chopper.
I tried a Huffy mag sprocket, but I actually liked the Sprint sprocket better, plus it was verifiably period correct.
I still have to bend my sissybar and stitch my cover so it will match my seat. I have the vinyl already. the sissybar will be about 57" from top to bottom. I wanted stainless tube but time and money dictated a few changes, so it is 5/8" conduit I will polish and clearcoat.
The seat is a Troxel spring seat. I am cleaning up a chrome spring and bracket set mow, if it looks good enough I will put it on the seat.
Since there is no sissybar yet, does that make it a fully suspended seat?
The speedometer is a JC Higgins, I believe the last year for JC Higgins items from Sears was 1961 so it is period correct. It is also red so it is color coordinated.
The radio is slightly newer, but the same style as the Archer AM radio. But since there is no good music (WLS) on AM anymore I took some liberties with this part. It is one of only a couple parts that were not actual 1960s available pieces. Not counting some bolts and nuts.
The chainguard isn't mounted yet, and when it is I will level it with the frame straight bars as suggested earlier.
I have the "Hawg Wylde" decal, but I need to repaint the red part first. I painted over the chrome instead of silver like the frame base coat so it doesn't match the frame properly.
A close up of my AS chrome "D" bolt seat clamp is included.
Also included is a shot of my gearing debacle, minus one chrome 22 tooth sprocket coming from Canada. If I can find my Sprint derailleur I will use it, otherwise the Schwinn Approved Huret is also period correct.
The piece on the frame above the chainguard is a homemade cable stop made from a Weinmann safety lever adapter from a 10 speed brake lever, a Sturmey Archer long brake adjuster and a Sturmey Archer double bolt brake clamp I bought that was the wrong size for the intended purpose. Still looking around the shop for a chrome spacer for the open gap between the clamp sides. Or my CheepAss will buy one at my friend Rogers motorcycle shop. Probably cost more in gas than what he will charge me for 10 of the spacers.
The grips are reproduction Schwinn Script grips like the Red Phantom used. The lever covers are Weinmann, but I would've liked the solid red Hunt Wilde covers better. Harder to find at the moment though.
Not started yet is the cable housing routing. I am using some Braided Stainless cable housings, maybe not period correct but Braided Stainless lines definitely were. So sue me.
I also am thinking on covering the speedometer cable housing with Braided Stainless to match.
I have a few more parts coming this week, including a set of reproduction Torrington Jeweled reflector pedals. That was one item I was determined to still use from the original plans for the bike last winter when I started collecting parts. You will see why when they come in.
I do have one minor problem. My chrome kickstand was mounted but would not let the crank arms pedal, so it was either pull the kickstand from the frame or the bike from the Build Off. It does have to be rideable but doesn't have to stand up on its own. Nor do I for that matter.
You may have noticed the narrating does not match the order of the photos. That was to keep you on your toes.
Or else it was because my memory is slipping.
Or it was to keep you on your toes.
Wait, did I already say that?
After several adjusmenrs (bending, etc) I now have a functional kickstand that just clears the 5-1/2" crank. It sits more like a normal Stingray kickstand, close to the frame and tucked in nicely.
I also bent the sissybar today. It looks a little different than I had planned, but I am embracing the look and imagining the pad shaped like the top of the bar and running down to seat level. I will include a photo of the bar top later, for now I have this side view.
A lot of the small details will be covered more in the final entry when it is done.
Both shift levers are on the way, now I have to get back to the shifter console so it will be ready when they come.
But first, I am going to take an hour or so to peruse the other build threads and see how everyone else is coming along.
Until later, Rob
A minor change occurred, apparently when I bought my seat and got the extra material to do the sissybar I didn't plan on it being as tall as it is.
The material is about a foot too short to go from top to bottom so I am working on a solution that does not involve cutting the sissybar down.
Both shift levers arrived today so I started on the shifter mechanisms. One is indexed for a 3 speed while the other is tension controlled like a normal 5 speed shifter. Both will use some kind of adjusters and possibly a type of overload tube.
I am glad the bring up good memories for you and hopefully others as well! That was the whole idea behind this bike!
They are Hurst levers, and they are within 1/4" of the length of the Schwinn Stik-Shift levers.
I was going to buy the regular Competition Plus levers new, but I remembered the old Indy line and decided they would fit in the build better.
I am probably going to copy the Schwinn 3 speed Stik Shift mechanism because of time constraints. I have an idea or two though, maybe I can work out if I can spend some time on them. The 5 speed tension shifter will only involve plastic washers and maybe some type of spring washer. Even a lockwasher or star washer with a Nylock nut would work.
I bought a new piece of finned aluminum for the side covers. This way they could be taller and I can make a top cover instead of the round covers everyone else uses on these mechanisms when they build one.
The piece has shorter fins spaced close together like a valve cover so I think I am going to like it better.
I wish it wouldv'e shown up in the search results last time but the other plate was only about $15 from Amazon then. That same plate is $25 now about a month later and the new plate was about that price and 60mm taller.
In case anyone is wondering the plate is a heat sink for LED or electronics custom work. I wish I could buy it quickly about 25mm longer but this will do nicely enough.
The other parts may still show up this week. I am going to dig out adjusters from some old caliper brakes to make the threaded mounts for the cable adjusters. I could buy inline adjusters but they would have to be chrome steel to look period correct, not to mention my wallet is bleeding to death on this bike already.
But then it's only fun, right?
Reminds me of a quote from Hot Rod Magazine Vol.9 20 1967. I thought Mickey Thompson, or possibly Vic Edelbrock said it but I cannot track that down. The saying was old when Hot Rod publised it.
"Speed costs money son. How fast do you want to go?"
So now I have my own version.
"Fun costs money. How much fun do you want to have?"
I think I will put that on T-shirts.
Yeah, I know hats sell better but I wear Skull caps.