Hot Rod Hawthorne

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A few weeks ago, I was curious about what was under the crappy spray bomb paint job. Some Goof Off and a rag revealed it's true colors, blue with possibly white darts. Such a shame the bike got painted. Blue boys bike aren't as plentiful as red ones. I'd leave the bike in whatever was left of the original blue, but since it's now slathered in runny red paint, it's like a blank canvas as far as paint colors go.
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Originally I was thinking a satin black frame with red primered "tins." Then I thought Oil Rubbed Bronze would be a little more sweaty or grimy looking than plain black. Then I found Rustoleum Rustic Orange and I thought of a ratty Flying Merkel kind of bike. Who knows. The spray paint department at the local Walmart was suffering from supply chain issues. But lately is looking like a canned rainbow again.
 
Saturday yard work rain out, so I worked in the shed on some bike stuff this afternoon. Motorcycle mirror mount, a bolt, some JB Weld, some copper pipe and a wooden spacer (for now) and the shifter mount is just about ready. 10mm mirror mount is a bit of a pain. I can get 10mm bolts and nuts locally, but the mirror mount is fine thread and all the local hardware is coarse thread. So I improvised and JB Welded a 5/16" bolt in the mount.
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Also had time to do some "landscaping" too.
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Did some experiments this afternoon. Hacked up some handlebars and mocked up some different bars.
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It needs some tweaking. I cut the pieces too long so they could be trimmed. I probably won't use this anyway as it's too hard on my neck to ride.
Here's the original gooseneck and bars. I like the look of the bars, but they are too narrow to be comfortable.
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Here's a set of Wald bars on the original gooseneck...
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Finally, the half moon bars I been using with the headlight I'm working on. The headlight started out as a solar powered landscape light.
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The Hawthorne drew first blood today. I tried getting the fork off last week, but couldn't get parts to turn. After a week of soaking in PB Blaster and WD-40. This evening I was finally able to get it all apart. After about an hour of working the parts up and down the steer tube and hosing it down with Goof Off and WD-40 I was able to put it all back together without tools. Rooted through my can of bearings and found a set that fit perfectly.
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Next I mounted the new front wheel. I had been putting it off because of needing to figure out how to make a 3/8" axle fit in a 5/16" slot. I panicked and finally gave in to the dark side and filed out the slots in the 80+ year old antique forks. Please don't come after me with fire and farm implements!
While everything was apart, I did my "village smithy" routine and straightened out the truss rods.
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So, here's what the Hawthorne looks like now. I'm liking the look of these Sunlite tires.
I wonder if I should paint the wheels?
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I use a grinder to clearance forks and never feel guilty. Years of bmx breaking axles mean I can’t bring myself to file the axle! I will say just recently was the first time I did it to a springer though
 
Our dog Luna had a growth removed from her rear leg Monday. This morning we saw several stitches were missing and she was bleeding. My wife rushed her to the vet and then brought her home about 4pm. She had to leave again so I am on dog watch tonight. She hates that cone.
Been doing some work on the headlight. Used some 1/16" Styrene to build up a place to mount the switch then some Bondo spot putty to blend it all together. needs more sanding before I can paint it.
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Luna says, "Hey."
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Handy, which Sunlite tires did you get, they look lie they might be the Sandy Beach or the ple Revolutions?

I've had the Sandy Beach on a couple builds, nice and fat 26 x 2.5 and they fit in old frames! RaT oN~!
 
Handy, which Sunlite tires did you get, they look lie they might be the Sandy Beach or the ple Revolutions?

I've had the Sandy Beach on a couple builds, nice and fat 26 x 2.5 and they fit in old frames! RaT oN~!
I have the Sandy Beach tires. The measure 2.25 on the rims I'm using. They still fill in the spaces pretty well. Haven't had a chance to ride it since getting the front wheel on, but with just the one on the rear the ride was much improved.
 
Sorry to hear 'bout your dog. That's why I thought the first two of your pictures were the dog cone you spoke about.... My mistake!
 
Weather app on my phone is calling for rain this afternoon, so I got the base color on the headlight housing during lunch. Working from home due to the pandemic has its plusses. Rustoleum Hammered Copper over-sprayed with Rustoleum Oil Rubbed Bronze. The surgery on the housing to remove the base of the mounting stake and removal of the solar panel went well I think. Hard to tell this was a landscape light. Maybe it looks less like a dog cone now that it's painted? LOL
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Busy afternoon today, even dragged out the ol' miter saw for a groovin' good time.
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What? Why a miter saw? Because I figured out how to set the depth stop so I can dado a few slots for....


Cooling fins?!?!!!
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And a custom chain guard too!
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The fins are still rough hacksaw cut, bu. t will soon have their ends rounded over. I wanted to do speed holes, but that's already been done in this build-off! LOL
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I've been trying to figure how I will get some wood onto my current build. Your panel between fender and seat tube is awesome! And I see some rat-tina in your future.... :nerd:

It's amazing what you have accomplished just using this .

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I think I described the situation wrong. The whole rear triangle leaned to the left. The dropouts are parallel. I used a turn buckle to spread the dropouts, similar to using the all thread method. I cut a piece of 2x6 to fill the gap between the dropouts and laid the bike on its left side and stood on the frame and bounced a few times! Like I said, not perfect, but much better and I didn't want to tweak an 80+ year old frame any more. Or risk falling and breaking any 50+ year old bones! LOL
View attachment 192103
I use a homemade tool instead of the string method. It can alternatively be
be made out of wood and is always ready to use, no measuring required. Flip to the other side. If it’s straight the pointer will fall on the frame the same on both sides.
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I use a homemade tool instead of the string method. It can alternatively be
be made out of wood and is always ready to use, no measuring required. Flip to the other side. If it’s straight the pointer will fall on the frame the same on both sides.
View attachment 193569
I've seen those sticks in metal and wood. I should invest in one. And a fancy work stand too!
 

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