Lady Luck

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Joined
May 8, 2009
Messages
178
Reaction score
1
Location
Surprise AZ
Hello guys I’m joining in! It’s my first build but I think I’ll get all the parts in time and the bike together before the deadline.

OK so I’m building a bike BACKWARDS. Why? because everybody takes a rusty heap, cleans it up, puts fresh paint, new parts and its a rider. What I’m doing is taking a bike from the mid 80’s with some rust, stripping it, painting it and then weathering it again and putting on old period parts to make it look like an even older rusty heap, a recent barn find.

I know how some people feel about “fake” patina… but I don’t feel like I’m actually faking much of it, the bike is rusty to start with so I’m just changing the color scheme and some details and then “putting” the rust back on…

I’m building the bike I could never find but with a twist, it can stay looking like this forever and won’t disintegrate (it’s not really rusty) because of all the adhesion promoter, primer, etc. Also I didn’t want to be oiling a rusty finish. For this I’ll be using some building skills and some scale modeling skills, the bike will be a visual exercise and a tribute to bikes from the past.

The theme of the bike is leaning towards board tracker bicycles but with a more massive antique bike look and a slight old aircraft cue thrown in.

So here is what I started with, a mid 80’s Western Flyer repro called Circa 50’s. It has some superficial rust but it’s workable. I was raining when I picked it up at an area here in Miami calles Coral Gables so I couldn’t test ride it (got soaked putting it into my car), I took it home, cleaned the rust of the rims, pumped up the tires, adjusted it and rode it, feels OK, just some rattling of the rear fender I guess but the hub is good.

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Then I took it apart... This balcony is the area I have for working, unless I’m doing something small and not messy that I can bring it indoors. It’s hot as heck and humid as the devil’s armpit... (the pic was taken in a morning, when I work there its afternoon with full sun coming in)In my frame sanding sessions I would end up soaked and have to change my T-shirt 3 times while I was there, who says you can’t lose weight building a bike! I don’t have power tools right now and I don’t want to buy any since I don’t want to carry big and heavy stuff when I move to AZ in a couple months so all the work is by hand.

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After using a brass brush and WD40 to remove the rust in the rims, I used liquid dishwashing soap to remove the oily residue. You don’t have a baby bottle brush? get one, you need it! my wife wasn’t around when I did this ( I meant about the bathtub, the baby bottle brush is an old one not my baby’s)

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After that I put the adhesion promoter coat on, you can see the difference between the matte finish and the shiny one in front that I still have to spray.

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I masked off the spokes with the straws trick, and then the primer coat, followed by the burgundy paint.

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Then comes the sanding of the frame... before sanding it bare I experimented first with some spots to see where I would put the worn areas later.

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I sprayed the adhesion promoter on the frame and the primer coat. I made a template on paper for the scallops and transferred it to contact paper, I felt lazy about doing each one with masking tape, this was easier. When I first sprayed the red oxide primer it looked nice but I’m changing the whole bike from red/ white to a more classy burgundy/ cream with scallops to give it a more old time look.

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This are the materials I’ll be working with, I should buy Rustoleum shares. The quality of the paint has been great even in this 90-95F heat with 60% humidity.

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When I painted the burgundy, it’s starting to look nice! too nice maybe. My wife said “leave it like that! it looks good” no, that’s not what I planned...
 
Thanks Herr Rudolf, yeah giving it a try to see how it turns out.

After thinking for a while if I should leave it freshly painted, I decided I was going to stick to my plan, so I attacked the frame with a sanding block and a wire brush, have to do some more scrapes still.

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Up until now, everything can be undone if I don’t like it, just some sanding and re-spray, but...Here comes the moment of truth... there is no turning back. If this doesn’t work I’m pulling off... the stone texturizer to give the rust effect. When this thing dries its super tough, I oversprayed by accident a wall, I couldn’t wire brush it off.

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It came out great! just the right effect I was looking for! now I need to detail it even more but I need my airbrush for that. I moved my working quarters to a shop at a place where I work, asked for permission and borrowed the air compressor, I wish I could have done the whole bike here, it was cooler than my balcony and with more space. Out came my trusty Paasche double action airbrush, I’ve had it for like 15 yrs. So during a lunch break I sprayed 2 shades of brown and black on the frame and wheels... starting to look more like rust now!

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Then I applied some clear matte to seal what I had done so far. I removed the masking from the wheels and... put new rim strips and my new white tires!! the burgundy really sets off the white.

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I even cut the new tire rubber barbs off so they don’t look “new”, you can see the comparison between left/ right against a dark background. I’ll see what I can do to weather the tires later on.

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I got a hairpin springer seat from chopersus.com I wasn’t so sure when I opened the box it looked kinda big... but then I mocked up the bike and it’s OK. Got to make a seatpost to put it where I want it. Be warned though, this seat is a real “stinker” it smelled strongly like raw hide. So much in fact I wrote to the mfg. Hiwheel.com about it and I just got “wait until it airs out by itself, some soap and water maybe?” wow... great response, thanks a lot buddies, meanwhile I can’t even store this thing indoors it stinks the whole place up. For this pic I already removed the high gloss sheen with Simple green. Then I attacked it with a wire brush, sandpaper and alcohol baths. Then I switched to stronger lacquer thinner soaking to dry out the leather, but it seems like it also softened up, hope it doesn’t splay when I sit on it! I’ll let it dry for a while, the worn out color turned out nice, it goes with the rest of the bike.

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Handlebar time! the 28” wide one that came on the bike was way too big... so I got this on Ebay from a 1950 Western Flyer X-53. I Removed the tassels and then a grip to flip it on the stem and... a nice surpise! its a Torrington bar. I’ll check when I mock up the seat if I need to cut it a bit at the ends to make it look more “racy”. I sprayed it with adhesion promoter to dull the chrome finish, still some airbrushing needs to be done. It already has white grips so they go with the tires, I’m thinking of white pedals now too. At one time I thought about a white seat but I figured it would be too much.

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wow, I like your idea of working backwards to make it look old and neglected, :) ...I can apreciate your technique, because I work as a carpenter/fabricator for a company that makes stuff for museums and theme parks, and we're always using unorthadox ways of creating effects on new stuff to look old. Nice start.
 
Continuing with the buildup...

time for the seatpost; I stole the Idea from the Gas Pipe Special... I checked were I wanted the seat and I needed a 45 degree bend instead of a 90 so I cleaned the threads with lacquer thinner, put some epoxy inside the pieces so it wouldn’t show outside, vise gripped and tightened them as far as they would go. I’ll put the end cap later after I check the final fit with the seat to make it easier to slide in the seat collar. Now I have to antique this part too but galvanized steel doesn’t rust... so I’ll have to smudge it black and dust it so it looks like it’s been there forever.

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Now I have to get back to antiquing the seat too... I’m partly done with the leather, I have to re-scuff it because the alcohol and lacquer thinner soaking spreads the dye over the scratches again and evens out the color. For the springs I sanded them with #150 sandpaper, and did the traditional vinegar and salt baths to promote rust. After several applications I washed off the vinegar and salt and a nice brown color formed, helped by the humidity here. I’ll let it develop over a couple days and shoot it with matte clear.

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Back to the frame and tanks... what’s a bike without a name right? so inspired by old time bombers I named it “Lady Luck” (‘cause I’ll need her big time when I relocate to AZ). For the lettering I tried some different fonts on my computer, printed them to real size and checked which one I liked most, I picked one with an antique flair to it so it will look like someone painted it on the bike back in the 50’s. I transfered the lettering by freehand to the tank sides with a pencil after leaving some space at the front for a pin-up graphic. Then I painted them with a #03 brush and white acrilyc, I mixed first a bit of brown to tone it down. After a couple thin coats, the lettering is complete. I let it dry a day and then sanded it down with #1000 sandpaper and then some #320 to “blend” and scuff it together with the rest of the bike. The graphic will be a decal, at first I was going to photoshop something creative but the graphic can’t be too big due to the size of the tanks, so I ordered some ready made online.

A mock up of how things are going so far... never mind about the fork, I painted it just in case I couldn’t get a springer in time, but I managed to buy one from an 1950’s X-53, thanks to another forum member: 2manybikes. Originally I had my heart set on Schwalbe Fat Frank cream tires but I was not so sure about the reflective band and lettering on the sidewall AND the price... these white ones were 1/2 the price with tubes included on Ebay.

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Following the theme on the tank I got some decals on Ebay, I estimated the size and ordered them:

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Before applying the decal to the tank I cut it and bent it to the shape of the tank to give me an idea of how it would look. I spent like 40 minutes looking at it from different angles, doing something else and coming back to see it and… I didn’t like it. It has too much detail and even if I tone down the colors by over spraying, does not look integrated to the look I want.

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So… I hand painted an eight ball on the sides of the tank and scuffed and blended it together with the same wear on the sides of the tank. Looks more like an old time graphic this way rather than with the pinup decal.

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After the graphics were complete I started the final coat, which is a fine “dusting” with a tan color on all the pieces of the bike. Here’s a pic of one of the wheels already done, finished off with an eight ball valve cap. The handlebar and sprocket got the same treatment.

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Bearing cleaning time, the 20+ year old grease gave way with WD-40 and lacquer thinner, I applied new white lithium grease when reassembling, luckily the bearing races were in good condition too, seems like the bike was not ridden much by the previous owner(s). After brushing the chain with solvent and removing most of the crud I dumped the chain into the solvent can and rattled it around, came out clean and nice! I started assembling the back of the bike now, to this point I still don’t have the fork! Its still on its way from Idaho…

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The pedals arrived, so out with the new and in with the old.

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At the time of these pics I still don't have the springer fork... so I started assembling the back of the bike. I'm still not decided if I will fit a rear fender.
 
Time for the fork!

I spent a lot of time looking for a fork, I thought about buying a wallyworld bike and getting it there, or buying a repro on Fleabay or a real vintage oldie. I checked all the recommendations you guys gave on the repro forks and the problems with the Monark repros... I really wanted something that looks different and more unique than a “me too” schwinn single springer type, and more substantial than a truss type springer like a Roadmaster. I was worried about a correct fit, so asking around and thanks to forum member 2Manybikes I got the fork from an X-53. It really looks good and different. I was thinking at first to cut the “beak” that mounts the original fender but after seeing it on the bike it looks nice as is, like a mini-fender, and it has a couple holes so if I get a nice headlight in the future I’ll have a place to mount it, although I always tought it would look better on the fork to one side of the axle, we’ll see.

Here is a pic from July 3, when I test fitted the springer fork. I was almost chasing all the Fedex trucks that came to the condo to see if my fork was coming..! if not I wouldn’t have been able to work on the bike during the long weekend. The fork fit perfectly, so after checking the fit, I dissassembled it, sanded the white part, put adhesion promoter, primer, paint, texturizer, detailed with fading paint, scrapes and the dusting and matt sealer, just like the frame.

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I shot a bit of matte clear on some sections of the chrome rods and axle plates to dull down the shine. I lubed and adjusted all the pivot points to make sure they moved freely. Then came the assembly, I used my newer races and bearings, fresh lithium grease... the original X-53 knurled ring since it looks nicer and left the springer guide plates in their original and beautiful patina. in the previous shots I had the gooseneck sitting high, now I can push it down to the final height .

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The bike looks nice with the X-53 fork and bars, certainly different! that is the massive and antique look I was shooting for. Now I need to attach the emblem and do a final detailing on the bike.
 
Wow, a great bike ready for restoration...Oh WAIT!!! I forgot you went backwards...Great effects. :)
 
well done. i think this is my fav, setting aside the Lady's bikes, but for a little boys bike an i won't wack it, this has to be the best, at least for me and at this time. very nice job. wow :shock:

Outlaw
 
My first shakedown ride was on 07/05 to the local Ace hardware store to get some flat type screws to replace some phillips head ones, to make it look period correct. I still have to attach the emblem and do some weathering on and around it to match, and on the new screw heads. I’ll do a once over check on the whole bike to see if I need a final dry brushing technique weathering on some spots to balance the overall look of the bike. I’m a bit obsessed with attention to detail, I got some 8 ball valve caps, I’ll sand the molding line, remove the mfg. lettering on the bottom and shoot them with satin or flat black, they are a bit shiny.

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Coming back from the hardware store, with the weather here it started to rain a bit about 1/2 mile from home... then I took it out again after the rain had passed. My next ride on Monday to the gym was better, it was sunny. It's drawing heads and people on cars drive beside me to take a look... guess with everyone riding shiny cheap wally world mtb and cruiser bikes they think "what the heck is that?", I love riding this thing, I’m 5’10” and with long leg proportion so guess I'll just pull the seat up a bit, white tires do get dirty in a hurry though.
 
All right, last details...

I attached the emblem, but before I did a little "dusting" on it to integrate the appearance of it; then I dry brushed around it and on the screws with 2 tones of rust, now it looks like it's been always there.

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This is how the weathered seat ended up:

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I attached the sidestand for photo purposes but guess I'll keep it to make the bike more "practical"

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And the graphics and the gooseneck in its final position

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Seems like the finished bikes count has stayed idle at 12 for a while, nobody wants to be #13... final shots coming soon!
 

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