Murray Eliminator 24x20 Build Could use some Help

[Eliminator3speed]

I accidently posted this in the general bike forum instead of the muscle bike forum so I just reposted it.

Hey everyone
I have a 1969 Murray Eliminator 3 speed 24x20 that I intend to restore. Ive had the bike sitting in my back yard for almost 18 years, and finally Ive decided to redo it. I found it in the trash when I was 12 years old and pushed it home with a flat tire.I put on a new tire and tried to ride it but found out the rear hub was shot and no bike shop wanted to try and rebuild a Shimano 333. From there I never really had any money or anything to really get it going, and I always said one day I would do it. Now Im a little older and actually have a steady job, and have built bikes for both my girlfriend and my father I thought it was time to do my build. My family goes to Wildwood every year for 10 days and every morning we ride bikes on the Board walk, Id like to be able to finally ride mine this year. So the goal is to have the bike rideable by august 9th as easily as possible. Then over time I will send things to the chrome shop and get them redone. So I am going to need some advice and some help on finding parts.

I'm in the process of taking the whole thing apart. From sitting outside so long its gotten rusty and everything is stiff. As of now without removing anything I can say I need to change the rear hub, re chrome both rims, replace the brake and speed cables, redo the bushings on the calipers, soak as many pieces of the bike as I can in Evaporust and replace all the bearings I can.

I got lucky and found a 24 inch rear wheel with the 3 speed hub on eBay so I ordered that, I have a Schwinn S7 front wheel so that will get me by for now.

I need to find a shifter cable, I was hoping to find one with the original style aluminum tube shaped nut on the end does anyone have one or know where to get one?

I need a sissy bar but its a huge dilemma because the original was so tall. From the nut on the rear axle to the hole where the seat mounts is 22 inches. The total height is 26 but I would take longer if I had to. I could always but a pad on it and it would look pretty cool.

I did some light dis-assembly, but hit a snag. I cant get the large chrome nut off on the neck just below the stem. Usually I use a big pair of channel locks and just squeeze them and push as hard as I can. It wont budge on this bike and actually started to slip. The chrome is perfect on it so I don't want to ruin it. Does anyone know what size wrench I need to buy to get it off? Also would heating it with a torch ruin the chrome?

Does anyone know what bikes also used the same chrome fenders as mine? Mine are missing and Id like to get a new pair

Before I spend the money to re chrome mine, does anyone have another 3 speed shifter?

Are the after market ape hangers as good as the originals? How do I measure mine to get a good set to replace them.

I found two Tioga Power Block raised white letter tires on ebay that will fit my bike has anyone used them before? Are they any good? I like the true muscle look of white letter tires.

This is just step one. Ill try and get some pictures up soon. If anyone has any tricks or advice let me know Id really appeciate it.

Update 6/30/15

Thanks for getting back to me..

I ended up drowning the nut in PB for a few days and it didnt work. Someone on another forum recommended using a pipe wrench which of course chewed it up. So I got mad and used my MAP Gas and Oxygen torch set and heated it until it glowed red. Believe it or not it took a ton of effort to get it loose after about 2 hours of fighting the fork is completely disassembled .

I did accidentally bent the stud the brake caliper sits on. I tried to straighten it but its still a little out. Are they still readily available?

Also whats left of my original sissy bar is actually 26 inches in total length. So 24 might still be short. However I think I found one made for beach cruisers that may fit.

Tomorrow Ill give getting the crank out a shot. Thats been soaking for 4 days now.

Update 7/1/15
I had my stem soaking in Evaporust over night and it just looks like crap. I'm guessing its a Wald stem like most bikes of the era. I'm on eBay and see a lot of different diameters does anyone know the stock diameter of these?

Update 7/2/15

Ive been spraying the crank all week I am going to try and remove that next tomorrow.

NOW THE GOOD NEWS!!!
I bought a new 24 inch 28 spoke rim and I am having a new 3s hub installed so I will finally ave a good rear wheel!!! The bike shop says it should be ready next week sometime. Provided he has the right size spokes and all. I spent a bunch of money on eBay today and ordered my TIOGA POWER BLOCK TIRES, 24x2.1 for the rear and 20x1.75 for the front. I found a used but very original Troxel sissy bar for a Murray Eliminator for $80 but I dont care its taken me years to find one. After re-chroming it will still be cheaper than the one on there for $150. I bid on some new stem nuts so things are rolling along.
Does anyone know what brand it would be, seems like everything back then was WALD. Also it seems to be 5 and 1/8 inches long and about 3/4 of an inch in diameter. Is that correct? Im trying to find a replacement on eBay to use until I get to drop that one off to be rechromed. Probably over the winter.

HERE ARE SOME PICS OF THE BIKE AND THE STEM
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s492.photobucket.com/user/aprules2/embed/slideshow/Murray Eliminator"></iframe>

 

[roadwarrior]

Nice project. You may want to try PB Blaster on rusty nuts/bolts. Also, check that the tire will fit that rim. Schwinn, S-7 takes a 20X1-3/4 tire... you would think 1.75 is the same but it is not. Balled up aluminum foil and WD-40 cleans up rusty rims very well. I have a pair of handle bars and a neck that would be a good replacement for your project. I'll send you a PM with pictures.

 

[rfeagleye]

Glad the project is coming along!

I will take look for a stem, I think I have one like that NOS from Mighty Mac? Looks just like that at least, not Wald, but the same look.

For the shifter, those come up from time to time on eBay. Also, I have had luck restoring them, they come all apart, and I plated the insides (zinc plated) the chromed the stick part etc. I have a place locally that will plate the insides of the shifter, send me a PM if you want more info.

I've never had the cover re-plated, but always wanted to try this place for it:

http://www.chrometechusa.com/

I talked with someone there a few years ago, and they said they could plate the cover. I don't know what the cost would be though.

As far as fenders, any Murray made 24 x 20 bike will work. I would scour Craigslist and see what you can find there, you might find a cool parts bike like this one that would have your parts:

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bik/5081020880.html

Looks like a lot of good parts for your build there!

 

[Jaxon]

Your build is coming along nice. It sounds like you are having fun finding all the parts you need. Parts bikes are always a good source for your build. Everyone one of us has bought a bike just for a part we needed...lol A lot of times you get it free or almost free after selling the rest. Girls bikes are good sources for parts.

 

[Eliminator3speed]

Rfeagleye Id definitely be interested in that NOS stem.

That bike would be great but I am in New Jersey. Most people don't want to or know how to ship a bike. I'm going through this on eBay too.

The red tape is actually broken on the shifter which is the biggest reason I was looking for another one .

I'm surprise about the Schwinn wheel. I really thought the 20x1.75 would fit. I do have a Murray Ram rod that I bought for parts but when I got it it was in such nice shape I didn't have the heart to tear it down. I have no idea what to do with it because it's too small of a frame but it's like near mint. I may use the front wheel from that temporarily until I find one or pony up the $150 to get it rechromed.

I'm going o measure my bars tonight and get back to you.

Was there any difference in the 24x20 frame VS the 20x20? I'm wondering if the fenders off the more common 20 will work.

 

[rfeagleye]

Ok, I will send some pictures of the stem. I also have front blackwall tires for your bike, Carlisle Zypher Flyte 20 x 1.75.

For the shifter, that metal gear indicator ribbon is cool, but you don't need it really. I think you should just take it off and restore the rest.

 

[Eliminator3speed]

I may do that. I have to see I may have found a twin stick. But its from a 5 speed not sure what would be involved in making the 5 speed stick a 3 speed. But it would be cool to have a drag brake on there too.

 

[rfeagleye]

That would be sweet to have the drag brake on there too! The shifter arms are different on those shifters, the 5-Speed arm has five holes for the ball bearing to click into, and the 3-Speed has three holes. But the arms should be the same other than that, so you can swap the 3-Speed arm you have on the 5-Speed Twin Stick shifter and viola!

 

[Eliminator3speed]

Spent the last couple days tearing the rest of the bike down and cleaning parts. First the bad, The shift lever looks horrible, all of my bearings basically rotted to nothing and fell apart when I took the crank, and fork out, also the cones look pretty bad, when I was polishing my brake calipers I accidentally lost the nut that holds the threaded mount for the brake cable onto the caliper. Is that something easy to replace? Also The pedals cleaned up ok in the Evaporust, but they feel loose is there a trick to tightening them up?

The good, I polished up the front caliper and the one brake lever and they look amazing!! So does the chain guard I found, but the decal is wearing away does anyone reproduce them?

Are the bearings, cups, and cones for the crank easy to get? Id like to replace them.

Also I ordered all of the hardware for the fork off of ebay they auction should be ending soon. But it doesnt come with the cone that sits at the bottom of the head that the lower bearing rides on. Mine is pretty pitted are they common and easy to find? Id also like to replace the cups too.

Most of the bike shops in my area are kind of snooty if they cant sell you 2000 race bike they dont want to be bothered. So Im trying to find them on my own.

I lost the nut for this fitting

 

[Eliminator3speed]

Today was a good day! My tires showed up and I got to mount one, I dropped the crank off to have the cone removed they're also ordering new cones, One bike shop had the crank bearings and cups in stock, another had a NOS Wald American headset kit, and the best part My Troxel original sissy bar showed up!!! It needs re-chroming but I'm still so excited to have the right one for the bike finally. Hopefully by the end of the week my rear wheel will be done and I can try to get it all together.

I do have one question though, I installed the new head set and the bearing race that sits on the bottom of the fork tube has a little more play on the tube than the original did. After tightening everything it seems stable but is it supposed to be like that?

 

[rfeagleye]

Looks like this is coming along nicely!

I would get rid of the slack in the headset. I have used thin metal along the fork tube (think pop can metal) to take up the slack on the race against the fork.

For decals (from your earlier post) everyone uses Bruce Crawford in Ohio for decals. He actually has the font and the outline of your guard decal, and can make any color you want pretty easily from the picture you posted. I posted a thread on some decals he made for me recently, check those out and see what you think.

 

[CRASH]

Agreed, take up the slack with a cut soda can and JB Weld it to the fork tube when you have it all in place to hold it steady. Before you do I would make sure the cups fit in the head tube. I've had a Wald replacement headset not fit correctly in the head tube.

That nut you lost will be a small millimeter nut, installed with an 8mm wrench. You may be able to find one at a hardware store.

 

[Eliminator3speed]

So as of now the bike is starting to look pretty sweet. I got back the crank today with the new cones, I also got a used head set, I was able to use the lower bearing race and the nice chrome top nut, the sissy bar is on, also tracked down the original round reflector for under the seat, ordered a good used set of ape hangers from Roadwarrior, got all new bearings and cups on my crank set, ordered a new shimano shift cable, and got new white brake cables, new brake pivots, now just have to start cobbling it all back together. Thanks everyone for the help so far.

Now heres whats left, I need to find front and rear fenders, the bike has enough room to run chrome fenders from a balloon tire bike, and the front seems to be a generic 20 inch tire. Do any of you guys have a generic 24 inch rear duck tail fender? And a 20 inch front?

 

[CRASH]

I have a 20" front from a Murray.

 

[Eliminator3speed]

That would be awesome Im definitely interested

 

[Eliminator3speed]

Hey guys,
Well last night Roadwarrior set me up with a nice set of fenders from a Sears Spyder . I kinda threw them on real quick in the dark just to take a peek. The line up pretty nice. The only thing is the brace in the front is too tall and it's too short in the back. From the looks of it if I were to swap the braces everything would work out. But before I go and make a mistake, is there anywhere I can get replacement rivets for the braces? Is there a special gun? I've seen a lot of ugly repairs with screws and don't want to be that guy.

Also I finally to my pivots for my callipers. I want to put them back together but can't find a picture anywhere of how the bushings go in between each piece. Mine were completely rotted away so I don't have anything to go by.

 

[rfeagleye]

I can help with those:

1. For the fenders, hand held rivet tools are out there, but they are about $100 a tool. They work *ok*, but what you really need is a rivet press for the fender braces. A larger, older bike shop may have one. They are usually a foot press machine that presses the rivet on.

2. I don't know if I would take the braces off just yet. Without knowing the bike Roadwarrior had, I would guess it is a 24" x 24" Spyder, and the front brace will be long, because your bike is a 20" wheel up front. Post some pictures though so everyone can see.

3. For the brake caliper, going from the end back, it would probably be the acorn nut, a flat nut, a washer, the left side brake arm, a small plastic washer (at least on the Fish Calipers), the right side arm, the spring (inserted into the fat part of the center bolt).

Hope that helps!

(I am still looking for that stem for you!)

 

[CRASH]

3. For the brake caliper, going from the end back, it would probably be the acorn nut, a flat nut, a washer, the left side brake arm, a small plastic washer (at least on the Fish Calipers), the right side arm, the spring (inserted into the fat part of the center bolt).

Almost.

Back to front:
-Mounting nut
-Mounting washer
- ** If it's a rear, and depending on the bike you may have concave mounting spacers for the brace
-The mounting bolt (the long piece everything attaches to) has an attached thick part. The caliper spring sets in there. On yours (The Excels) the spring's "wings" go up, but the mount should be low. In this picture (http://imageshack.com/a/img540/944/yRfkZV.jpg), the spring is right, but the mount needs to be turned 180 degrees down so the spring doesn't stick up over the top.
-Thin washer in front of the spring mount
-Caliper's left arm
-Thin washer
-Caliper's right arm
-Thin washer
-Tension adjustment nut
-Acorn nut

 

[Eliminator3speed]

Put it together last night and it works well. My only issue is the tension nut doesn't thread down far enough. I have a slight side to side wobble on the arms. Is it worth just doubling up the washer on the front or should I jut let it be.

 

[CRASH]

Yes, you could add a washer. Where depends on what you need in space, and what the brake needs. I could probably put it between the two arms, as you can probably get away with more space between them.