Need a little bearing help

Shop deals on ebay
Bike Wall
Advertise with us
Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
J

jamie296

Joined
Jul 18, 2017
Messages
38
Reaction score
38
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have a western flyer that I am bringing back to life and I'm going to put it on the road soon i hope.
I have greased the bearings in the crank and all is well there.
I pulled the rear hub apart last night and i need a some bearings for the hub. It's a small ring but all the bearings fell out last night.
I still have some more cleaning to do to get all that grease off but you can see in that race only half the bearings are there. This is a single speed coaster. I am hoping someone knows where to get these or how to somehow rebuild them. I called a local bike shop and they said we may be able to match something up maybe? I'm asking here because you guys usually have some things that others don't.
Thanks
Jamie
685bc898a57e670387b8701c22c7b30e.jpg
0ceeae9927cbdf39c0b1477ce22bbf2f.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
I use one of these magnet telescoping things to collect small metal things like bearings.
MST_07228BULK.jpg


Your best bet would be to find all the bearings that dropped out and put them back in the cage with grease to hold them in. That way you know they are the right size.
Otherwise, the type of hub will determine what new set will go in. The brake arm should give you that info.
 
you can buy loose bearings at the hardware store and put them back in the cages, they are probably 1/4", but measure them to be sure..
 
Alright, i have all the bearings, luckily I took it all apart over a towel and caught them all. I called another bike shop locally and they were not able to help me either. I am going to go later today and get some grease and see if I csnt get these back in their rightful spots. Thank you for the help. I guess this is a common thing with vintage bikes, well lesson learned. That won't stop me form enjoying it though. I got a chain for it today. Now I need a few other things and it will soon be road worthy. Next is my wife's vintage hiawatha that I got. I'll make sure to catch all the bearings there as well for reuse.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
I have started putting the rear hub back together now. I got some hi temp wheel bearing grease and lubed all the parts up but the problem I am having is that I cant get it to squeeze back together. I've attached a pic of what i have. It looks like I need to push both sides into the brake thats in there. Anyone have any ideas or maybe can offer some help on this?
Its a sach single speed with the coaster brake.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
:39: Not familiar with the details of a Sachs hub, but:
Is the sprocket on the same side of the hub as before?
Is the shoe assembly backwards?
Are the slots on the shoe assembly facing and lined up with the protrusions on the brake anchor?
Are the bearing cages backwards? This one looks right.
0ceeae9927cbdf39c0b1477ce22bbf2f.jpg
 
Thank you, i just checked that out a minute ago and downloaded it to my phone. I would think at this point, i have something backwards but I need to figure out what. It seems like the gear in there should be pushed into the brake assembly but I am afraid to force it. When all out on the table without the wheel, it all fits together perfectly and looks as if it should jist slide in but then hope it doesn't. I'm going to take it back down and see if maybe something is not right. Thank you. I hope to get this on the road soon and then start on another for my wife.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
Untitled 1.jpg
when I take apart coaster brakes, I usually keep all the circled parts together on the axle shaft and unscrew the sprocket driver and clean the parts. Then I grease the bearing on the brake lever end and the brake shoes and assoc. parts and this keeps them together. apply some grease to the inside of the drum and assemble, then grease and put the driver sprocket side parts in and adjust the cone bearings...
 
horsefarmer said:
View attachment 57843 when I take apart coaster brakes, I usually keep all the circled parts together on the axle shaft and unscrew the sprocket driver and clean the parts. Then I grease the bearing on the brake lever end and the brake shoes and assoc. parts and this keeps them together. apply some grease to the inside of the drum and assemble, then grease and put the driver sprocket side parts in and adjust the cone bearings...
Click to expand...
Ditto on that, if you just remove the locknut and inner race from the sprocket side, 9 out of 10 times you can just unscrew the driver and the rest will just slide out the brake anchor side together.
 
I got it all back together but for some reason, it won't slide in place. #9 needs to open up and that's where I'm having the problem, i couldn't get it to open up. I got impatient and took it down to a local bike shop in the city I work in. That's the last time I do that...... I have a bendix that i need to grease up next. I will be very careful this time to make sure and not take it so far down when I take it apart. That was money I did not want to spend but I did find a couple of pedals while I was there. He has some vintage bikes down there so that helped out but thank you guys for the help. I'm hoping that this was a learning experience for me and i will be alot more careful the next go round on the other bike I am working on.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
That was also my mistake, i did not put them all together before inserting them back into the hub. I tried to put them in the hub one piece at a time and i couldnt get that brake shoe to open up to slide the other into

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
Once it's back together it should last for years, so divide the cost of the bike shop by the years it lasts, then it'll be a better bargain every year.:113:

I've rebuilt all kinds of coaster hubs, never did a Sachs though, but they are known for good quality. Once you do a few coaster hubs, it's easy. Even worn ones can be cleaned, greased and adjusted to get some more life out of them.

 
I believe the Velosteel is the same thing as the Sachs. I've taken a couple apart (and successfully put them back together!) and IIRC, there are two pieces that need to line up, but one of them has to be done blind, so you need to eyeball it right before putting the assembly together. You got it together now, but there are videos on the Velosteel that might help, too, if you need it in the future. Other thing I remember is: if the brake takes a long back pedal to activate, it's overlubricated. I used oil in mine (after over-greasing it) by recommendation as—again, IIRC—the grease needs to be really light as they were supposedly originally designed for oil.
 
Alright, an update on my bearing/ Hub problem. I took it to a local bike shop in the city where I work. He worked on it for a few days and so i called him today to see if I could pick it up, and so i did. He didn't charge me for it because he said he couldn't get it fixed. He said it was missing parts, well no parts are missing because I took it apart and put it in baggies on my table.
The problem is that it spins the sach bracket when it rolls so it's still not working.
I am going to take it home today and take it back apart and see if I can repair it and slide everything back together the way it was suggested above. I'm hoping for the best. I do have a spare bendix from another bike that I will put on if I still can't get it but now I want this sach hub on there so I'm going to somehow put it together the right way and get it rolling again.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
Sach's used a few different designs on their hubs and used different model names on them. Which one do you have? Is there a model name on the brakearm?
 
When I rebuild a more complex coaster hub for the first time i sometimes assemble them without grease. Where after l get it together and working I rebuild it with grease. No grease lets you see what you are doing. Bendix 2 speed manuals can be assembled dry, put on the bike and peddled on a stand while pushing a paper clip or spoke end into the shift hole. I'd it shifts l grease it and reassemble. Thesehinges are tricky to adjust with the able but lnlw know it will
 
When I clean bearings I use old dental tools, they work great when wanting to really get in there and clean that harden grease out. Fortunately my wife works in the dental field so I have a seemingly endless supply of hand tools which they go through fairly often.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top