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Biggest problem with doing a leaf spring set up is finding a spring that is within your design parameters. It's been my experience that anything off a light truck such as a Chevy S-10 or a Toyota will work for anyone in the 125-210lbs range and give between 1-2 inches of spring travel. You want the leaf to be about 12-15 inches long with about 3-4 inches of bolt on space. Use spring clamps from the local hardware store but you might need to get a matching thread die to thread the U-bolts farther down like I've done here.

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If your a heavier person you can simply use two leafs in a stacked set up or find one leaf from a heavier full size pickup. Problem is it's most likely going to be too stiff and will need some fine tuning. I hope you own a bucket of elbow grease cause your going to need all of it! The tuning process of a leaf spring entails using a large hand held grinder and a lot of moxie. You first need to use several cut off wheels and narrow the leaf its full length to about 2 inch wide. The starting at the rear, farthest from the mounting point, start grinding a taper from about 1/4" thick to about 5/16" thick at where it starts the mounting area. Also a longer leaf will have more flex, IE more travel, than a shorter one.

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In every parts yard I've ever been it seams the going rate for a leaf spring pack is $20. Your still going to need to separate them and cut your piece to length but they are usually cheap and easy to find. Plus for you $20 you end up with enough to build several if you screw one up. Also don't overlook trailer springs. They are usually 1-3/4 to 2 inch wide and have a perfect spring rate for the average riders weight.

Lastly is the seat. A regular bike seat won't mount to a flat surface but a solo chopper seat will after drilling a couple of 3/8" holes in the spring. This where it gets very hard. Spring steel is very hard! Forget HSS drill bits, your going to need a Cobalt drill bit and a lot of oil as coolant. Take your time, set the drill on slow and keep the oil flowing. Go ahead and buy two bits cause you just might burn one of them up. I'm not kidding here, spring steel is tough stuff! If you can find a leaf with a hole in it already work around it when cutting you piece. Also to cut a leaf you will need an abrasive cut-off saw or a grinder with a cut-off wheel. Forget trying with a Sawzall unless you have handful of cobalt blades and a lot of free time! Just to give you an idea it took me over and hour to cut a 3/8" thick X 3 inch wide leaf with a Sawzall and about $40 worth of Cobalt blades.

4-1/2" cut-off wheels are dirt cheap and even though you might use a couple per cut that's still easier in the long run.

I hope this helps. Later Travis
 
I finished the new handlebars about an hour ago. They look great! Totally outside the box but inside the frame. :roll:
I also got the tank mount bungs welded in and shortened the leaf spring by 2 inches. After looking at the side profile I'm thinking about a chain guard even though I really hadn't though of using one until just now. Who knows, if I have the material and the time to whip one out I will. Either way I'll go ahead and sweat in some mount inserts into the frame at the two mount points.

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As soon as I get to a painting point I'm going to take a few hours and give my shop a real cleaning and organizing cause its a messy pig pen right now.
Man I want to get finished asap! I booked my flight to SF this morning so its written in stone, I'm going for sure! :mrgreen:

Later Travis
 
If you ever do another of this design ,you should move the bottom of the fender bracket forward of the dropouts and run it up about 6'' and then mount the light in that. A small sissy bar would have look killer on it. Would complete your bobber look. Frontend turned out looking really good.
 
You mean down on one side? I had thought about that but this light has an F-U lens that were going to put in right after its finished. I really wanted it to be up and in your face when the lights are on. I had thought about a Billy Lane style sissy bar, and it almost got one if we had gone with a smaller tail light that could be mounted low and on the side. I generally don't repeat my bike designs too much unless the bike gets crunched or stolen. In fact I've only duplicated 2 bikes out of 31 and both were because the first one got stolen. I have an idea for a similar bike but won't be recognizably similar. You won't look at it and think about this bike. It will just share ideas.

Later T
 
It look like you got pretty good turning radius out of those joint. I like how you made the bars adjustable up and down, it look like you could rise the bars if you wanted to.
 
he is sending it to college i am wondering how many boxes will show up :lol:
 
karfer67 said:
he is sending it to college i am wondering how many boxes will show up :lol:


Dude are you stoned? Who are you talking about? I'm flying with it to San Francisco in two boxes, wheels in one everything else in the other. Karfer see you in a week.

Later Travis
 
see thats what happens when u drink too much and read internet forums and no i was not stoned i promise :oops:
 
Hes game using wheelchair handrails i have snapped a few of those over the years, granted they were stainless steel though
looks like hes using aluminium judging by the welds in this pic dunno if i would be trusting it at speed...interesting idea though, I prefer 'the real' deal, we just need to convince Travis to fork out the coin to get one made hehehe..
IIRC Billy stated they were 20-25k a pop on Biker Build Off ep of his 'Miss Treated' chopper... (went up in flames too)




KiM
 
I saw a design that was done by someone other than BL built around a small Honda that was super cool. I'm sure I copied the picture somewhere in the 40K+ pictures I've got on my HD. The crazy thing was this was a dual hubless design, both front and rear wheels were done and the drive line was hidden inside the swing arms. It used large teflon ball bearings in key positions and some kind of gear drive drive-train. I'll see if I can find it. I think it would be a really cool bicycle project!

Kim I joined the MotoredBikes forum today. My neighbor gave me a Honda GX160 engine with about 30 hours on it. I've got a set of 18" alloy mag wheels from a Kawasaki AR50 I'm going to build a vintage looking cafe minibike around. :mrgreen:

If my gear ratio calc is right, with a racing kart clutch, it should do 93mph at 5000rpms. Stock these little motors rev to 3600 which is still a respectable 51mph. I want to build it Zero Engineering style! Lots of alloy and crazy small and tight!

Later Tex
 
IronSpadeCycles said:
t Zero Engineering style! Lots of alloy and crazy small and tight!

Later Tex

Long as you dont put a 1980s looking head lamp on the front we can remain friends ...... Them Zeros are .... fugly lookin things front on IMHO..
I much prefer the Quantya electric dirt bike over the Zero...

I thought something like this in lecky would be up your alley Trav

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8LlWr6E ... re=related

KiM
 
No, no no Kim I meant Chabott Engineering, formally Zero Engineering, what Shinya Kimura builds.

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I think these things are incredible works of art!

Later T
 
Dang, I like the look of that big front wheel on the second one. It look like it might have a bicycle hub on there, it so small.

Any update on PeeWee's bike, are you gonna take it back to SF? I reckon you'll be glad when it done.
 
Yeah its almost finished. I got a lot done yesterday and this morning before I had to go into town for more stuff from the hardware store. I've got three minor parts left to make tomorrow and then I've got to get the shop cleaned up and ready for painting. Right now its in a bunch of pieces laid out on my work bench but its 97% done.

That front hub is called a speedway hub or a spool hub. Because almost all speedway bikes are built without brakes they use these front wheels to lighten the bikes. Its a popular chopper item.

Later Travis
 

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