No. 3 build ready to kick off...

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Battery box completed. Used 5" dia. aluminium tube for the shell, stainless louvered vent fascias repurposed as end caps, and a Munsen Ring and Hospital Bracket as frame mounts. Locating brackets for the louvered end caps brazed inside aluminium shell using Alu-build300 rods and my MAPP torch.
Front brake and speedo cables now installed.
Bespoke 27" dia. steel rear mudguard rolled to shape by a UK craftsman using the original machines and tooling. Shame I had to cut it down to get the 'bobbed' look. Can always use the offcut on another project.
Oh... and my new Covid mask arrived arrived via DHL from India! Courtesy of eBay. ;)

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Going for the full speedo, lights arrangement means it's pretty difficult to conceal a wiring loom.
Having decided to power this build with a very low mileage Skyteam Ace 125 motor, and wanting to keep everything 'plug-n-play' friendly as possible, I purchased a spare Ace wiring loom, key ignition switch, regulator/rectifier, flasher relay and CDI unit from ooRacing, the official Ace spares stockist. Also treated myself to a mph speedometer - which I suitably modified by spraying its black plastic enclosure antique brass and the addition of some aluminium rivets to the chromed bezel. Made a card template for the panel needed to locate the ignition switch. This will be one of several panels I'll have water-jet cut from steel.

Soon as I saw the loom I realized the biggest problem was going to be concealing its electronics and umpteen multi-pin connectors. Most of the connectors will (or be made to) fit within the headlamp's shell. Might have to get creative there. Unlike on a regular motorcycle, on this build there's no convenient space under the tank or saddle to conceal wiring or electronic components, so I also needed to come up with somewhere near the rear of the bike to hide a couple of the larger items such as the CDI and flasher relay along with the connectors for the rear blinkers and stop/tail lamp. The answer was to create a faux oil tank, using one of umpteen different sized cast aluminium enclosures made by Hammond - more commonly used for musical instrument effects boxes. The 'oil tank' is secured to the seat post via a pair of stainless saddle clamps and a brass filler cap sets it off nicely. Later on I'll plumb-in a couple of copper pipe oil lines to further enhance the faux-ery.

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ifitsfreeitsforme

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This is amazing.
 
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Whoa
 
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Working on the shifter linkage which will transfer the 125cc motor's left side foot shift to a right side hand shift.
The bearings & collars on the main shaft will fit through a pair of waterjet-cut plates that double-up as the rear motor mounts. These plates will also hang beneath the motor's crankcase, linked between the front motor mount and the frame's bottom bracket, substantially reinforcing the frame.
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Begun silver soldering the reinforcing gussets to the frame. Didn't really want to have an unsightly weld bead attaching these parts - so opted for silver solder instead. Plan is to go with a clear lacquered bare metal frame (but I'm keeping my options open, so that may yet change...) with a little patina to suggest age.
Planning to weld the dropout reinforcing brackets in place because I can hide the weld bead on the inside of the frame. My wire welder is in storage, along with most all of my other workshop tools following 2019's house move, but workspace in this small apartment is at a premium so I couldn't use it here anyway - so I've convinced myself I can justify purchasing one of the latest tech mini hand-held welders from AliExpress, at a price point almost half (inc. free shipping) what the few UK sellers are knocking them out at.. Worth checking out the videos showing these little beauties in action. The results are what persuaded me to pull the trigger and purchase one. Can't wait to give mine a tryout. I'll report my findings here - but I'm already 100% convinced my weld beads won't end up looking anywhere near as uniform and perfect as those pictured in the advert's blurb.

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Quickest ever LED vintage lamp conversion. Didn't even have to alter the vintage nickeled Powell & Hanmer lamp itself in any way whatsoever. Conveniently, the USB rechargeable LED light's plastic body was a snug interference-fit into this particular lamp's reflector ring after sawing/filing off its pair of moulded-on lugs designed to secure the rubber retaining strap. The light's on/off switch is easily accessible via the hinged, flip-up red lens on the lamps left side. Total of 10 minutes work, if that.
(Alternatively, the LED light could be attached a little further back to the lamp's rear reflector disc using double-sided adhesive, which would allow the light's beam to illuminate the lamp's red/green sidelights).

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