Oiler Conversion on SS Coaster Hub

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Cross-posted from a forum on an entirely different site; I hope that's not a foul. I just wanted the RRB set to weigh in as well...

OK. So, I got this Velosteel hub, and there's a whole lot to like about it. It looks cool, it coasts silently and with very little drag compared to any other SS cb hubs I've used, and the innards of the thing seem to be of high-quality.

Drawbacks: the brake is weaker than a Shimano cb-e110 and, b/c it's based on the ol' Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo (which seems like a good thing, and in many ways, it is), it's really meant to be lubed with oil, as opposed to grease. However, since oil ports have been considered unseemly on bike hubs since the early 80s, the Czechs make their hubs without oil ports. B/c of this, most folks will repack them with grease, but grease on the roller bearings at the driver tends to be too sticky, and it causes things to stick, and the sprocket can turn almost 360degrees before engaging on a gummy Velosteel.

My solution has been to use grease on the ball bearing retainers and in the races for the balls, but I hit the rollers of the driver and the brake clutch with oil. BITD, I would very lightly grease the brake shoes, but lately I've been oiling those, too. This makes for a nicely-performing hub, but it needs more repacking than I'd like--probably about quarterly. (For comparison, my cb-e110-equipped bike gets a massive dose of grease in a repack, and never shows symptoms of "needing" a repack; I just repack it when I get bored.)

On to the question: I've seen IGH nerds online who have drilled and tapped their Nexus or modern S-A hubs for an oil-bath conversion. They tap it up, douse it with 10ml or so of oil (or however much fits without bleeding out), plug the hole, and go. I'm super-jealous of those guys. They have special oils recommended by Shimano and S-A for these hubs-- my first question is:

#1- what oil would be best for a primitive thing like the Velosteel? A perverted corner of my soul really wants to use synthetic motor oil, but there's probably no good reason for that impulse, unless it'd work well and cost less. But I'm interested to hear suggestions from this board.

It's also crossed my mind that the Nexus hubs seem to have superior seals, compared to the Velosteel. OTOH, old S-A AWC hubs, modern S-A 3speeds (which have been converted), and my old F&S Torpedo Duomatic (with factory-original oil port) don't seem to be better sealed. Still, my second question is:

#2- do ya think that the oil will just blow out of both sides of the hubs, at the cones and/or ball retainers? FWIW, the bike will be ridden on paved roads, and sustained braking/high temperatures are unlikely.

Pertinent info:

-Tapping the hub will be easy, mostly b/c I don't intend to convert the hub I've been riding these past few years. I have a new hub, as of yet unlaced, that I'd try this on.

-Here's detailed pics of the innards of a Velosteel, for those who are mechanically experienced but unfamiliar with the hub. It's markedly different from the ubiquitous Shimanos, the Bendix hubs that Shimano knocked off, and the KT hubs which attempted to knock off Shimano's knockoff.

- The intended bike will be this cycletruck that I've been riding, tearing down, and (eventually) rebuilding. CB rear, drum front.

-This is not a purely theoretical post; this is something I really want to do. I'm not, however, convinced that it will achieve the results I'm looking for. I'm OK with that. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, etc... It'd be cheap to do, not accounting for time, and I'm convinced that, even if it DOESN'T work, I'll be able to just treat it as I do my current Velosteel. I just think it could potentially save me some hassle, plus I'd secretly feel like an uber-pimp if I periodically used a syringe to inject motor oil into an oddball hub via a port that I made myself. I'm just a creepy guy, I guess.

-I have already considered the fact that the thing might leak schmultzy oil all over the floor when parked, and intend to devise some sort of drop-cloth/cyclo-diaper for initial testing, in order to avoid divorce proceedings.

If you're still reading at this point, I'd truly appreciate your feedback. TIA.

-Rob
 
The old clutch disc New Departure hubs aren't really "sealed" in any sense of the word. The oil works it's way out past the bearings eventually, which is why there's a port.
 
The furthest I've gone with one of those without giving it a squirt and a wipe is probably about sixty miles. I used to ride cb everywhere I went, and would only clean and grease bearings once or twice a year, usually after riding in rain or winter conditions, or if they were binding. I'd add a little oil and check for bearing play/binding every 2-3 rides (any where from 5-30 miles a trip). With the Asian hubs I'd just lay the bike over and pour some in through the small drive side bearing. A port would probably work better.
 
Sheldon Brown recommended packing the ball-bearing retainers with marine grease, to sort of seal the oil in. I think I'll try that, if/when I drill/port my hub.

FWIW, the Velosteel (Czech-made Fichtel&Sachs copy) has the little retainer inside the driver, too. But I think a port would satisfy my need to do weird stuff....
 
I'd do it, worst that can happen is you find it leaks too much and all you have is a hole with a plug to remind you that you tried.
BTW, Ive been using the old Brit oil-hole port front wheel hub with the oil SA rear for some years on a '72 BSA Sport. Im thinking of doing up the BB by plugging all the frame tubes off the BB and D/T'ing in a check level hole and a top fill port. Kind of a 'total loss' oil system all around but easy to maintain/flush too.
 
That's how I'm looking at it, Gcrank. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.... and very little to lose, here.

I had a Rudge Sports from the 50's with a port in the BB. Rocked pretty hard, having that.
 
Please, tell me more about that Rudge BB!
Was it basically like the later typical greased bearingsets in the Nottingham framed bikes just with the oil port and need to oil up before use?
 
It was a Nottingham-framed bike, built after the Raleigh buy-out. Here's a link to a pic of an old Raleigh (not mine) with the same type of set-up.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/derbyshireprincess/5873447522/

I gave that bike to my buddy Harry; maybe I can scare up some pics from him. It was a regular cottered crank, with the pimp-slappin' chainwheel, and of course no seals. I never checked to see if the stays and downtube were sealed off or not. I actually just put grease in there as if there was no port, but I was gob-smacked by how utterly cool it was that it came so-equipped.

Never should've given that bike away. It had mismatched wheels, but the front was a GH6 "Dynohub" and it had a ported AW 3 speed out back. Mostly original, but missing the chainguard, fenders, and og saddle. Harry's doing right by it, though. Really cool ol' 3 speed. I really love the Brit bikes.
 
Thanx B-808, that helps. If you come across any other info on such please PM me. I dont intend to pull down the BSA until next summer when I can get it on the plywood over sawhorse 'table' in the carport.
 
Would love to know if it works!
Is this the sort of hub you mean with the oil port?

10586383315_41c5834af5_z.jpg


10586641953_55d300046c_z.jpg


To be honest I had thought that was a grease nipple on there...

Luke.
 
That might be a grease fitting, Luke; I'm not familiar with that Velamos hub. Older Sturmey Archers, Fichtel&Sachs, New Departures, etc had oil ports to keep 'em lubed because grease was too heavy for some of the spring-loaded pawls and whatnot in their guts.

The Hub I'm hoping to mod is a current-production Velosteel, which is a Czech-made F&S clone. Rumor has it, F&S had a factory in the Czech Republic (nee Czechoslovakia) and when they closed it down, the Czechs kept/bought/stole/whatever the tooling and kept building, first under the name "Favorit", and more recently under the name "Velosteel." Not sure how accurate that is, but it's the oft-repeated internet legend, anyway.

So, my hub doesn't have an oil port, and when I repack, I use some medium-heavy oil on the rollers and clutch, but grease on the ball bearings, and it's a PITA b/c if too much grease gets on the rollers, the drive doesn't engage properly and you can almost brake your azz when you try to pedal hard across an intersection, but the drive doesn't engage and you about nearly crash your face on the bars just as a car almost crushes you.

So, for this next one, I'm doing the oil port.:):rockout:
 
Not necessarily good to "know", but good to keep in mind. I was just repeating a common rumour; I've yet to actually crack a "Favorit" open. For all I know, they're a different design. But, when you do, if it has roller bearigns at the driver and the brake clutch, do not use heavy grease....
 
I have a number of Perry coaster hubs, which are copies of the F&S Torpedo, made in England. They were used commonly by US makers in the 50's and 60's. Perry probably licensed the design before WW2 and England probably kept it as reparations after the war. I am not sure I have ever seen one with an oil port. I have used grease in abundance everywhere in their assembly. Mine have performed perfectly, never exhibiting the behaviors you describe. It sounds like maybe the Czech version may be less well made. :(

The good news is the Perrys are not sought after, and can be bought for a fraction of the cost of the new Velosteel. :)
 
The Torpedo design has been aped, stolen, bought, and borrowed by a good number firms over the past century: Perry, the older Sturmey-Archer ss coaster hubs (later ones were KT-built), Renak, and various iron-curtain era knock-offs (probably others I'm not aware of). By all accounts, the older-production ones are better quality than the later. Even still, many online tutorials suggest oil or small amounts of lightweight grease on the shoes and rollers of real-deal old-school Torpedoes and their ilk. (FWIW, many but not all of the knock-offs had oil ports in the shells.)

If your Perry hubs run well while loaded with grease, that's awesome, but I already have the Velosteels and they sure enough gum up with liberal application of #2 grease. I'm thinking I'll port the new (but already purchased) hub before I lace the wheel, and then try it out with red-n-tacky in the ball bearings and a bath of 5w20 oil, and see how it does. In the name of "science". Ha.

I realize that cool, high-quality old hubs can be had for cheap, but I like to support the current bike industry, and if my dollars help keep the industry churning out a 100+ years-old design, I think that's money well-spent. I like cb-e110 hubs, but the hubshell is ugly and poorly finished and it lacks the "soul" in it's innards that makes the Velosteel both charming and challenging. I figure, for my builds, i'll leave the droolworthy old-production hubs to those who just gotta have the vintage stuff--- it'd be a shame if a guy like me abused those old hubs the way i do with all my current-production Shimano, Sturmey-Archer and Velosteel stuff...

Final note: old hubs make a lot of sense for a lot of builds. Flanges aside, cb-e110 hubs are the best new hubs on the market in terms of braking power, maintenance, and ready availability of spares. (This is why i do run some Shimano coasters...) The Velosteel is best only for the rare breed of ppl like me who enjoy old-tech, but feel guilty about wearing out actual old stuff....
 
I like cb-e110 hubs, but the hubshell is ugly and poorly finished and it lacks the "soul" in it's innards that makes the Velosteel both charming and challenging. ....

The Perry hubs were nicely finished and the plating was of high quality. They can often be found in excellent to mint condition.

My experience with the Torpedo design (via Perry) is that the brakes range from weak to adequate, but they coast with the absolute minnimun of drag... which is why I favor them.
 
Yeah anything old and British tends to be top-notch. I'd have no worries with that.... (I just think the Shimano cb's have some crap flanges, with poorly radiussed holes. I prefer to build steel-hub wheelsets with washers anyway, but still...

As for the low dragness--- yes. So nice. So quiet. So friction-free Choose the Torpedo clones for the "coasting" part; choose the others for the "brake" part...
 
Now that I am finished stomping on your thread...

I'll address the questions you actually posed:

1) I personally would first try automotive "gear oil" which is about the heaviest non-detergent oil readily available OR chain saw oil which is made to stay in place. If your issues persist, I would try a 30W non-detergent motor oil, then 20W, then 10W.

2) Yes, you will not be able to retain a large quantity of fluid in this non-sealed cavity; but a little oil goes a long way. The working bits do not require to be flooded or bathed in oil. I think the required quantities are described in "drops".

I look forward to hear your outcome.
 

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