I like all of the above color/rustification ideas, now kick the kids out and build it bro! [emoji16]
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(ORBO) Mesa Büggie : BACK40 Old and New = Rat-isfaction! pg 7
- Thread starter OddJob
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Yeah, plus then I can start riding it all around the valley, which is what I really want to do!
Great parts and sounds like a great plan!
Go OJ!
Luke.
Go OJ!
Luke.
And so it begins...good progress this morning. Knocked out the old crusty BB cups using my hammer and the fork leg of the original fork (bent at steer tube anyway). They popped out nicely. This build will be the pure definition of "shade tree mechanic" as all my work will take place in our small open space next to the patio under the mesquite tree and across the parking lot behind the dumpster wall.
I did some sanding on the rusty frame. Think I will try to wipe the rust off and keep the weathered, multi-colored paint frame as is. Give me your best, environmentally safe product / method for removing the rust but leaving the paint on the frame....GO!
Then I made a "paint noose" to hang my fork from the tree behind the dumpster to prime and rust-ify in today's 73 degree weather. Picture wire with a plastic washer on the end, threaded through the steer tube, and twisted around a screw I turned into a branch cut-off end. 3M blue tape wrapped around the non-paint area.
I did some sanding on the rusty frame. Think I will try to wipe the rust off and keep the weathered, multi-colored paint frame as is. Give me your best, environmentally safe product / method for removing the rust but leaving the paint on the frame....GO!
Then I made a "paint noose" to hang my fork from the tree behind the dumpster to prime and rust-ify in today's 73 degree weather. Picture wire with a plastic washer on the end, threaded through the steer tube, and twisted around a screw I turned into a branch cut-off end. 3M blue tape wrapped around the non-paint area.
When you don't have tools, you make them. A trip to Home Depot this morning garnered a headset cup removal tool and a BB and head set installation tool. First removal. I bought a 3' length of 3/4 " galvanized conduit. Cut to around 16" in length. Use mini hacksaw to cut four slots in one end, approx. 1 1/2 " long.
Then use the adjustable wrench jaws to clamp and "spring" the tabs open so there is about an 1/8 gap between each tab. Increases the diameter of the sprung end by about 1/2".
Then insert the uncut end up through the bottom of the head tube to first remove the bottom cup. When you pull the conduit tool up through the hole, the tabs will spring into place on the inside of the head tube, now sitting on top of the old bearing cup. Then grab your favorite hammer (or, your only hammer in this case) and pound on the exposed end of the pipe. The bearing cup will begin to loosen, and then come flying out of the head tube. Hang on to the conduit tool or that will follow close behind....
Flip the frame over, and repeat the steps above. I made this tool for the $3.40 the 3' conduit cost, and I've got almost 2' left over. Also made a truing stand out of galvanized conduit and 2 x 4's and zip ties. But that's at home, and for another time. Rat on!
Then use the adjustable wrench jaws to clamp and "spring" the tabs open so there is about an 1/8 gap between each tab. Increases the diameter of the sprung end by about 1/2".
Then insert the uncut end up through the bottom of the head tube to first remove the bottom cup. When you pull the conduit tool up through the hole, the tabs will spring into place on the inside of the head tube, now sitting on top of the old bearing cup. Then grab your favorite hammer (or, your only hammer in this case) and pound on the exposed end of the pipe. The bearing cup will begin to loosen, and then come flying out of the head tube. Hang on to the conduit tool or that will follow close behind....
Flip the frame over, and repeat the steps above. I made this tool for the $3.40 the 3' conduit cost, and I've got almost 2' left over. Also made a truing stand out of galvanized conduit and 2 x 4's and zip ties. But that's at home, and for another time. Rat on!
Love your shade tree methods!
Luke.
Luke.
Dig 
...and, moving on. Now that I had the bearing cups out of the bottom bracket and the head tube, I needed to be able to install the new cups. So I made this bearing cup installer device from a 12" piece of 5/8" threaded rod, a nuts and washers packet, and a couple of scrap 1/2" x 5" wood pieces. Total cost at HD: $5.88.
First I threaded on one of the nuts, then a washer, then a piece of wood, then another washer, and finally another nut. These were tightened down to fix that piece of wood in place. I then placed on BB cup on, stuck it through the BB, put on the other cup. Then I put another washer on from the opposite end, the second piece of wood, and another washer with a nut behind it.
I held the fixed nut side with a pliers while I turned the nut down on the opposite end of the threaded rod to compress the wood pieces around the outside edge of the cups. As I turned in the nut the cups slid right in...worked great!
First I threaded on one of the nuts, then a washer, then a piece of wood, then another washer, and finally another nut. These were tightened down to fix that piece of wood in place. I then placed on BB cup on, stuck it through the BB, put on the other cup. Then I put another washer on from the opposite end, the second piece of wood, and another washer with a nut behind it.
I held the fixed nut side with a pliers while I turned the nut down on the opposite end of the threaded rod to compress the wood pieces around the outside edge of the cups. As I turned in the nut the cups slid right in...worked great!
Next I went out to the "paint noose" to check on the red primer. It was dry. Love the desert. Put a coat of my favorite Rustoleum Multicolored Texture rattle can. I used the lighter shade to try and match the natural patina of the rusted frame. The first picture shows the result after I used 3M green sanding screen after a round of 240 grit sponge sanding block. You can see the difference between the unsanded paint on the left fork leg (facing you) and the right one that I worked on a bit.
Then the fork up against the frame after working both fork legs....
I'll probably rub the shoulders a bit more to get some of the red primer and original black base coat to come through.
Then the fork up against the frame after working both fork legs....
I'll probably rub the shoulders a bit more to get some of the red primer and original black base coat to come through.
I don't know much paint is left, OJ. I had good results using cheap oven cleaner on an old Rollfast frame, but it was totally covered with black paint which preserved the OG finish. Also don't know how "environmental" spent oven cleaner / paint sludge is (I used gloves)...
I've used electrolytic rust removal without losing ny paint, but recently another member posted images of the same process using a different product than I use.
It brought up some paint.
I'd say look up electrolytic or electrolysis rust removal on YouTube to see if you think it would fit your needs.
When I use the process I get arm&hammer washing soda, it's non toxic.
It brought up some paint.
I'd say look up electrolytic or electrolysis rust removal on YouTube to see if you think it would fit your needs.
When I use the process I get arm&hammer washing soda, it's non toxic.
Good point about the amount of paint left. Mostly surface rust on steel. Thinking about linseed oil to rub in and preserve the existing look. Seems like the best option, and to keep the vintage vibe going....
Chief, there are two different shades of the Rustoleum texture paint that I have used. It kind of depends on the color of the original rust / patina you are trying to match. On my Beer Boy Delivery bike build for RRB BO-10 this past summer I used the lighter shade, along with 3 other color base coats on the cooler and big bottle cap. Then on the chrome rims, cranks, and other shiny stuff I used the darker shade to better match the surreal rust to the real rust. Here are the two colors I have used:
The far left can is the "flat red" primer (looks shinier in this pic than it really is) which I used as a base coat on the forks yesterday. On the chrome parts for the Beer Boy Delivery (pictured below) I used a metal flashing paint for base coat. I put up a link to the video I shot during that process below the pic. Check it out....
You might consider technique on this bike...
Clear coat the rust to preserve patina and redo trim colors only.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/1941-westfield-tank-bike.95814/#post-963007
First test ride this morning! Still waiting on my lay back seatpost addition (just picked it up at the mailbox tonight) and I need some different bars. But other than that I am pleased. Feels pretty balanced with the fatty in the front, can't wait to hit the dirt and rocks.....
Got a short ride video shot in the parking lot before we left for the day. Feels good!
Got a short ride video shot in the parking lot before we left for the day. Feels good!
That tyre difference is extreme!
Luke.
Luke.
Well, they are both on 26" rims, the rear is a 2.4 width, and the front is 4.0....I think the angle of the bars in the first picture makes the front end look high. If you look at the chainstays, they are pretty level, and the frame and fork look pretty balanced. It will be fun to get it off-road and see how it handles. That fatty should absorb the bumps and chatters...
