Question about a 1970s Scwinn price.

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In case you haven't figured it out yet, that's a 1996 Model.

I waited a few years to get mine, being picky about the colors offered until Y2K.

That frameset is highly versatile in that you can easily make it just about anything you want it to be due to the canti mounts and semi-horizontal dropouts.
Thanks for your insight on the bike. I had no idea what year it was made. It was made in Taiwan.

I haven't decided what I want the bike to be yet. I have Chrome BMX bars with a 6" rise that I took off of my SE OM flyer That I could throw on there for now, Although I kind of like the stock bars. The gears will probably stay, but the twist shifter has to go. What type of shifter would be best for this, thumb shifter?
 
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Thumbies would be easiest. Simple friction shifters just work. Grip shift is just about the worst. Another option would be to convert your twist shift to a stick shift, like the old muscle bikes had. There's a "Show Me" thread here somewhere...
 
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Thumbies would be easiest. Simple friction shifters just work. Grip shift is just about the worst. Another option would be to convert your twist shift to a stick shift, like the old muscle bikes had. There's a "Show Me" thread here somewhere...
I had friction shifters on my old Benotto road bike. Never had a problem. Would a thumb index shifter even work on an older bike like this?
 
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I'm gonna go for a spin on the bike when I get home from work. With the acquisition of this bike, I feel like I've joined the club.
 

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You can probably find Shimano indexed thumbies for a six speed around here if you do not wish to go friction. There are some shimano thumbies that are capable of both friction and indexing. I may have an Exage 6-speed or two in my parts bin that is capable of both.
 

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So I should look for a mid 90s era thumb shifter?
It's all about what you wish to do. One of the greatest things about personalizing a bicycle is that decisions of this nature are totally up to you. The easiest answer is do what is going to make you want to ride it more. The happiest bikes get ridden by riders who are happy about the bikes used on the rides they intend to do. Build it to make *you* happy.
 
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Well...... I tried a shimano 6 speed index thumbshifter. No go. It skips gears and shifts worse than the gripshifter. I'm going to return it and get a friction thumb shifter.

Who makes a good friction shifter?
 
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Sometimes the freewheel makes a difference in indexing, especially if someone switched it from a Shimano to a Suntour. Check the freewheel first and if you have a spare Shimano six-speed that is spaced for indexing, that should solve the issue.
I'll check the free wheel, but I have absolutely no bike parts. I just got back into bikes after umpteen years back in August of last year.
 

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If you wish to keep indexing, a proper freewheel would be the answer to your current situation. Modern six speed index capable freewheels will work with friction or indexing. Modern Shimano six speed freewheels can be had for around $25. If you choose to go with a "Megarange", be sure your rear derailleur can handle the big cog.
 

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They are a prime candidate for SS Klunk, with the added bonus of cantilever/linear sidepull brake options. Personally, I weigh too much to consider a coaster brake in the dirt. Besides that, I'd rather ride than re-pack a coaster after every ride, or trip down a big hill. Mine is 100% finished and I'm about to go hit the pump track with it ... and I did, then rode around town for a while because it rolls so nicely.
20210622_164859.jpg
 
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I've decided to go SS, BMX stem and bars. I'm a total noob, but very mechanically inclined. I have bars, but what would you recommend for a front and rear hub, cog, and stem. Thanks.
 
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With the brakes you already have, I would go with a freewheel. Use your existing wheels unless you want to be able to go back to the 6 speeds. Otherwise another set of wheels might be the way to go. Getting hubs, spokes and rim and lacing them up or having them done will be much more expensive than a set ready to go. With a 44 tooth chain wheel, a 20 tooth cog might work well.

Or you could just remove the derailleur and shorten the chain and use one gear on the cluster. We used to do that when our cheap 10 speed gears gave out.
 

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