Rat Rod Forum Advice Needed For Building Truss Rods from Scratch

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Kevin B

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For some time I have been wanting to add faux truss rods to a bike. So I have poured over many of the forum posts about making truss rods. My recent acquisition "The Swamp Tiki Cruiser," has front forks with the perfect attachment point. So I am giving it a try . . .

20200401_174602.jpg


Today I ordered a 6' length of 3/8" stainless steel tubing. Other choices were brake line, fuel line, conduit and etc. The price of the 3/8" SS was too good to pass up.

three eigths x 6 feet SS tubing.JPG

Here is the link to Zoro where I got it for under $9 and under $15 including shipping.

https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-tubing-welded-38-in-6-ft-304-ss-3ade8/i/G0777761/

I have seen lower attachments like the diagram below. I figure with my bench vise and/or a hammer I can achieve this . Also plan on using the grinder for rounding the corners.

Bottom diagram.png

What about the upper attachment? I have this bracket that is intended for baskets I think.

Basket Bracket.png


Depending on how hard the 304 SS is to bend I make be able to mount to the existing outer holes. Or add a piece of angle stock like this. I think there is a post here on the RRB Forum where someone flattened one of these same brackets and used it that way for truss rods.

Basket Bracket Word.png

Here is one way I am thinking about the upper attachment.

Upper Diagram.png

By using the existing holes with a hard bend or the angle stock with a mild or even no bend I could attach the rods, might even be able to use acorn nuts by grinding the thread length, (that is something I have been very successful at doing.).

Does my plan sound feasible? I am trying to do this with hand tools, a bench grinder and a vise. I do not have a welder. I have read that the SS tubing is hard to thread without a lathe.

Thanks for any help. When the rod arrives I think I will chronicle the process here.
 
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Sounds like a plan. My only caution would be that stainless steel is a nightmare to bend, and only gets tougher then more you bend it. If you don't have a proper tool for this, check if an auto parts store will lend you one. (Many will, with a deposit.)

 
Thanks. I wonder how it will cut with a hacksaw?

Oh, I expect it will cut with no problem. The quality of the result depends on the hacksaw blade and the number of teeth it has. A sharp blade with more teeth produces a better cut. The final edge can be dressed with a file or, in a pinch, sandpaper. I wrap tubing with masking tape when using a hacksaw because it gives me a straight line to follow.

Anyway, I see kinking as the bigger threat. Therefore, I recommend you bend first, then do your measure, cut, flatten, and drill.
 
304 SS is a very hard grade of stainless (shines up really nice, however :thumbsup:). Don't worry about threading it, as there isn't enough meat in that tubing for any standard sized thread...if you end up using JB weld (or equivalent), let it set for full day or two before putting in torque to it. A better solution would be to use a 3/8" bolt and find someone with a lathe to turn down one end to .335", and then press it in with some threadlocker for press fits (603 or 680).

Use a very fine tooth hacksaw blade to cut it, it is hard.
 
The tubing has arrived and it is very thin at .020. I have been wondering about packing sand into the 6'length and then trying to bend it around a utility pole. Do you think it could do a 180 or almost 180 without kinking or wrinkling too bad? Another idea I have is since the ID is a little over 5/16" what about pulling a length of 5/16" rope through it and leaving it in there until it is bent? The rope (if hard enough) could maybe prevent most distortion.. Any thoughts? The tubing is 3/8" x 6' with .020 wall. I am going to need about 24" per rod.

20200406_122746.jpg


20200406_123311.jpg
 
With a thin wall tubing like that , you will need some kind of bender to stop kinks . Amazon has them for around $13 .
I come from the electrical industry and have bent miles of conduit .
 
OK, listening to everyone I ordered a bender that is supposed to work for thin wall stainless tubing, it should be here Saturday.

I read a tip that said to lube the surfaces so it can slip over the tubing as it passes. Another tip said to put a hole clamp around the tube where it goes through the bottom so it will stay in place and not be fed through instead of bent. Are those two points good advice?

Bender.jpg
 
I used the same tool bending these out of stainless . Just take your time and I had to slide the bender around a little bit at a time ? I used vintage chain tension screws on the ends to fasten to the wheel hubs .
truss rods.jpg
 
I used the same tool bending these out of stainless . Just take your time and I had to slide the bender around a little bit at a time ? I used vintage chain tension screws on the ends to fasten to the wheel hubs .
Did those truss rods start as tubing or solid stock? If tubing, do you remember the wall thickness? They look great :thumbsup:
 
I used the same tool bending these out of stainless . Just take your time and I had to slide the bender around a little bit at a time ? I used vintage chain tension screws on the ends to fasten to the wheel hubs .
View attachment 116296
What an amazing job, thanks for sharing. I'm going to have to fabricate the top bracket from various components.
 
The bender arrived and it worked great. A couple of tips I learned. These cheap benders are made from cast aluminum. A person in a Amazon review said check it for burrs along the mandrel edge. Sure enough there were a few burrs. I used a file to slightly chamfer the edge of the mandrel channel where the burrs were.

The tip of the hose clamp to stop the tubing from pulling through was a good one. See photo. I will probably make some more of these for future project. One 6' length of $9 - 3/8" SS tubing makes 3 rods.

IMG_2400.JPG


I tried the stock basket bracket shown in post above and it looked odd so far out from the head tube. The remedy was to cut and bend the bracket closer to the head tube. I'll be attaching an aluminum bracket to it. Here is the bracket.
Plate to modify basket bracket.JPG


Next I made studs to JB Weld into the top of the rods for mounting them to the bracket. I think this will work. I've used JB Weld to replace stripped water pump holes on a small block Chevy with a stud.

Bracket and studs to insert into rods.JPG


Their drying now.

Glued up.JPG

Here is what I can tell you about these non-roller cheaper bendesr. You will probably get slightly flattening on the outside of the curves (hardly detectable). You may also get very minor scarring. Probably not good for a vintage restoration of an expensive bike, (They make high dollar bender with roller that glide over tubing that would work well for that). Overall not museum quality but perfect for a Ratrod.
 
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