Ratty Patty



Feb 20, 2018
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Yes it will definitely look better with a lower rear end. The fork will be more raked as well. I imagine once the extension and the chain stays flow in the same direction like a continuous line everything will tie together. Basically you have to tilt it until you find the angle you find most pleasing to your eye.
It will be also the easiest way to avoid eventual chain line issues.
If you want to drop it even more remember that the lower the drop the lower go the first (original) set of seat stays - and since they go narrower at the top this means the chain will have to pass them at an area where they are narrower so they might interfere with the chainline.
 
Jan 21, 2009
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There was no way to attach the cantilevers to the frame with the chain stays at the right angle, which was straight in line with the original ones. It was possible but would have not looked good. And for a bike of mine, that has to be pretty bad looking! :21:

So I was thinking of using the last big length of flatbar to make seat stays that run from the seat collar to the dropouts while cutting off the cantilverers. But the dropouts are very thin, I can bend them by hand. I thought maybe I should have complete dropouts and everything made up at the welding shop. Then I remembered the BMX frame that I picked up along with all these other frames at the scrapyard. I won't be using it because of the oddball size headtube, no cups or bearings available, it's 1/8th inch smaller in diameter than the standard size. I did find the smaller cups and all for the cranks but all for naught without the headset. The dropouts are rear facing and twice as thick as the others, so it's going to get the chop.
BMX drops.JPG


I plan to use the dropouts and chain stays, not the seatstays. I'll use the flatbar as seatstays and bolt them to the seat collar and dropouts. When I mount the seat, those braces will provide extra lateral support to the seatstays. Hopefully this plan will work.
 
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Feb 20, 2018
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It looks like due to their curve when you tilt the extension the cantilevers go way under the seat collar.
What about a regular seat collar, but installed lower, where the cantis would pass by the seat tube? Pry it open, set it, close it again, bolt extension to it... Or if too flimsy you could improvise with an ahead stem - bar clamp on the seat tube, shaft end cut away, drill sides for the extension.
Would probably need a 31,8mm and shim it though.
 
Jan 21, 2009
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I would give other ideas a try, but the thinness of the dropouts rules them out, since I have the heavier dropouts to use. Also, if the frame's original stays were more curved like the cantilevers it would flow much better. Since the seatstays are nearly straight, the straight bracing will match up better going somewhat parellel down to the dropout extensions.
RP frame - Copy.JPG
 
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Jan 21, 2009
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I used the cantilevers for the struts to see how it would sit. The trail isn't nearly as off as it was and it might just work out. I'll need a longer cable for the front brake.

canti struts.JPG
 
Jan 21, 2009
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Almost ready for another test ride. I have two band brakes on the front. The hub is threaded for a cluster and a brake, but I threaded band brakes on both sides. They only provide good braking going one direction. So, the one on the left side is a parking brake. I use a thumb shifter on the handlebar to engage it. The right side is the actual brake. I still am working on a plan for the rear brake, I still want to fab up some kind of bracket for V brakes.
dual front brakes.JPG


I couldn't make a good mount for the seat, that would be acceptable. So I'll have the seat mounted in the traditional spot. I'll look for a layed back seat post. That means the handlebars will suffice for now. Since I can have a pair made up, maybe I'll go with a ramshorn style or maybe a screamer style.
I need to align the rear wheel again then I'm ready to go for a ride.
config 28 nov.JPG
 
Jan 21, 2009
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I was aligning the rear wheel and lowering it going by the chain line to see how much lower it could go. At a good spot I tightened the extensions and measured the braces to recut and drill new holes at the top. Then I checked the struts I took off the springer and they were just the right length!
struts 29 nov.JPG

Tuesday I get a bunch of hardware to finish it up. I think some kind of board would look good as a rear rack. I had thought of a wooden box, but a mini surfboard or longboard might go good on there.
 
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Jan 21, 2009
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The rear triangle still seems flimsy, so I've got one more plan to make it solid.
I was able to get all the right nuts and bolts without saying a word. I wrote everything down as plain as possible and had no problem. They say they have more stuff than anyone else. It's a warehouse of nuts and bolts.
1606812555832.png


At the bike shop, a new seat for the daily rider, v brake kit, and the layback post I needed. They said it was the only size so I bought it, and it was too small. I used an old one to make a shim. I just took a section out and it fit snugly over the new post, but I needed to saw out a slot so it would cinch down on the bike. Done! And the old seatpost will still work, it is long enough.

shim 1 dec.JPG


shim notch 1 dec.JPG
 
Jan 21, 2009
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The braces still weren't up to par and I have another frame that can take the springer and wheels. I also have a donor frame that I think is suitable to continue this build. Ratty Patty is this frame though. I'll continue with this but in a different way. I have a Hawthorne chainwheel and Bendix original skiptooth hub with chain and 40's era handlebars and stem. So I'll use all that to make a early model looking bike. Patina will be the theme. Like a cantilever bike from the 30's. So I've already stripped it down to the bare frame again.
plan b.JPG


Parts were transferred over to Chrome Molly, my other ongoing build.
 
Jan 21, 2009
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I measured the frame and the extensions I made up for the other bike fit nicely on Ratty Patty, so I did another swap back to Ratty Patty. I cleaned up the frame a little more, it still will get some fine sanding but not to bare metal. I'll keep the patina, just less of the brown rust.
head tube patina.JPG

seatpost.JPG



I'm still riding indoors on a stand until Covid lets up. So I plan on riding in my office for awhile. No need for brakes which is good, because there aren't any.

Patty 2021.JPG
 
Jan 21, 2009
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I wanted to do something different with this frame, so I made my indoor bike with everything but the frame from Patty and was going to wait for some old parts.
mixte1.JPG

But then I realized I had enough leftover stuff to make a whole bike,
frame2.JPG

so ratty patty is now a ratty cruiser, ready to hit the streets. All I have left to do is the brake cables.
5 feb patty.JPG
 
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Jan 21, 2009
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Another version of Ratty Patty. There will be a complete reconfiguration of this bike for the build off. There was just enough clearance in the seat stay for both gears to work. I've got it in high gear, low gear hub is on the front.
patty 13 Apr 21.JPG

We had another surge in Covid here, so I put Patty back on the stands for more indoor riding.
patty ex 13 apr 21.JPG