Fair enough. The headlight pic is posted above—it's a Mazda3 headlight mounted in the same orientation it would be in the car (so the light cutoff is at the top of the spread so as not to blind oncoming vehicles). It uses a H7 bulb, so I got one of those in LED so it wouldn't eat battery and possibly melt things, catch fire, etc (if it caught fire at the back, that would be fitting and I could quote Pee Wee, "I meant to do that", but it doesn't work with the front catching fire). With the LED, I ran it 3.5 hours yesterday and everything was cool to the touch! I then got an H7 connector, which you can see in one of the photos of the headlight assembly (it's just two wires) and butt-spliced them to some 14 gauge wire to bring them to the battery I mounted under the seat. Below, you can see the harness conduit I used to keep everything in place. It's just some plastic harness my work was tossing out. You can also see the small wires entering into the harness that will be used to switch the lights on, which are illuminated lights mounted into the tops of the shifters (I haven't done that part yet as I have to take the packs apart and solder them in place of the switches the packs use). The wires travel through the shifters and an extension spring I use as flexible raceway and into the rocket body. You can see the spring under the left shifter. I still haven't made the shifters operable yet, either, so this is a good time to take these photos as it will only get more cluttered.
The wires I used for the lights are butt-spliced into DC coax connectors that then fit into the 3-way coax that comes with the battery packs. With these, you can plug in the battery charger and leave the lights connected if, for whatever reason, you want to use them to light up the house while it charges.
The big pack is for the headlight alone, which I wanted separate to keep the current draw at a minimum with the low-priced Chinese-made li-ion pack directly under the saddle. The little pack is for the tail lights and it also has a handy USB connector for charging a phone or whatever. If necessary, I could easily swap the connectors so either pack would work whichever light was most important in event of one of the batteries dying.
You can see the tail lights lit in a post above. It's a two-piece set up with a trailer light mounted in the cocktail shaker main nozzle and a small 3/4" red LED lamp in the mixer mounted inside. The trailer light has three wires: black (-), red (+tail), blue (+brake) and I have it so that it illuminates in "brake light" brightness, leaving the red wire unused. The small LED only has two wires. They are wired in parallel with the (-) wires from each light butt-spliced to the battery (-) and the (+) wires from each light butt-spliced to the battery (+). They then all run in the same conduit to the batteries under the saddle.
The small tail light LED had short leads, so I had to extend them to get them into the body of the rocket where they could meet up with the trailer light's wires. Since the trailer light takes up the entire base of the cocktail shaker, I had to pass the small LED's wires through the outside of the cocktail shaker and through the wood "firewall" to get them into the rocket body. You can see the grommet I used to pass the wires through the shaker and the butt splices for the small LED's wires. This is all very well hidden unless you were looking for it.
Crotch rocket 
