Road Rash

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Sep 10, 2014
Messages
326
Reaction score
1,396
Location
seymour indiana
Here is my RRBO17 entry. I ran the serial number and came up with a 1946 CWC built Roadmaster. It's been rode hard and put up wet. Some original paint and striping left, scrapes scuffs and ratina just like i like them. Not sure i will leave the sweetheart sprocket because it won't work with the guard i plan to use. New spokes and morrow coaster brake rebuild are in order. I've got to get into my parts stash to see how this build goes. I will start disassembly this weekend. Probably going to give it an oxalic bath and spray everything a dead flat clear coat. Pinstriping later will tie everything together. Pretty sure i have everything laying around here to get it done except a tank. Still looking for one that fits.
20220429_120842.jpg
20220429_120854.jpg
20220429_120901.jpg
20220429_120926.jpg
20220429_120920.jpg
20220429_120932.jpg
 
Got everything pulled off of frame except the skiptooth chain. I rolled it around a dozen times and can't find a master link. Almost got the bolt cutters out.
 
Got everything pulled off of frame except the skiptooth chain. I rolled it around a dozen times and can't find a master link. Almost got the bolt cutters out.
I was able to remove the skiptooth chain from mine with my chain breaker tool. The chain didn't sit perfectly in the tool, but it worked well enough to get the chain off.
 
Got everything pulled off of frame except the skiptooth chain. I rolled it around a dozen times and can't find a master link. Almost got the bolt cutters out.
I resorted to the angle grinder a few years ago on my '34 Old Manse Hawthorne build on the locked up skip tooth chain. I got one through a guy here on the forum, but can't remember who it was? Also, I've heard tell of a few skip master links around. Good luck with the final removal!
 
I resorted to the angle grinder a few years ago on my '34 Old Manse Hawthorne build on the locked up skip tooth chain. I got one through a guy here on the forum, but can't remember who it was? Also, I've heard tell of a few skip master links around. Good luck with the final removal!
I found a few new ones on ebay. A little pricey but if you got to you got to.
 
Definitly watching this one closely, great start!
Just one question, what is an oxalic bath?
For the powdered type (which is like Comet or BonAmi) you can buy Barkeepers Friend. Anyhow the active ingredient is oxalic acid. This is for stuff you actually want to scrub.

If I want to wash an old patina without removing any solid paint I will use CLR. But I don’t do that much because I like fresh shiny paint.

I think “patina vehicles” are interesting to look at, but I don’t want to own one.

The oxalic acid is terrific for removing water spots from glass aquariums, which is why I buy it.

I have a big bottle of swimming pool cleaner, which is phosphoric acid mixed with soap, and I use this for stuff where I want the rust to blacken. it’s also great for taking the rust stains off your concrete because it literally removes a layer of concrete. You can use it as a paint prep if you degrease afterwards.

If you have a slippery concrete walk, you can roughen it lightly by applying phosphoric acid solution and then washing it off with water.

Before painting fresh metal I usually use Jasco metal prep, which is a solution of phosphoric acid alcohol and water. I think they changed the name a few years back and it is called Jasco prep and primer now, but I have used this for 40 years.

Even if you sand metal it can have rust in the pores that you can’t see. This converts the rust in the pores to hard, black, iron phosphate and rusty pinholes will not pop out later through your paint.

Don’t get that stuff in your eyes folks! It takes the skin off your hands fast enough, So take the necessary precautions.
 
Last edited:
That bike has great patina! It will clean up very nicely. I always liked the '46-7 fenders with the curved braces. If you are changing the chainring, I would suggest using a smaller one because that stock chainring always made these CWC's difficult to "cruise". Good luck!
 
That bike has great patina! It will clean up very nicely. I always liked the '46-7 fenders with the curved braces. If you are changing the chainring, I would suggest using a smaller one because that stock chainring always made these CWC's difficult to "cruise". Good luck!
Gonna pick up some oa monday and start cleaning it up. Chainring will be saved for another day. I have two paisley chain rings coming, one regular, one skip tooth. I've got a couple diffferent chainguards i want to try and neither would fit with the sweetheart. looking forward to what you do with that great frame you're starting with.
 
Can't go wrong with the curves of a CWC.
 
Got the bike all taken apart and waiting for the oxalic acid to arrive tomorrow. In the mean time i've been tossing some ideas around in my head. I think i'm going to try to make some fender skirts. I traced out the shape of the fender onto some posterboard. I used a curved fender brace and a few round lids to come up with first draft. i kind of like it but may refine it a little before i transfer to metal. I will order some metal sheet in the next few days. Most likely i will use copper.
20220508_134151.jpg
 
Pulled a few things out of my stash last night that will go on this build. I found a deco looking chain guard that should fit. A set of torrington pedals with red pads that should clean up well. I also had a rear reflector to replace the broken one on there.I replaced the plastic lens with a glass person's. Also found a set of wheel discs for the front wheel. Will search for handlebars when I find that tote. Also a correct crank set.
20220508_135117.jpg
20220508_135226.jpg
20220508_135251.jpg
20220508_135505.jpg
20220508_140546.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top