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There's another type of scooter, uses a wheel in front and skateboard wheels in back. I might try that next time, steering on both ends might be good or bad.
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….steering on both ends might be good or bad.

There are different kinds of skate trucks. I probably own a dozen different types. Anyhow you can set up trucks that lean but do not actually turn.

Slalom guys use these in the back and I use them in the back on boards that I set up for long distance pumping.

For that I would have a truck in the front that turns a lot and very fast, but the truck in the back tips and hardly turns at all.
 
It's starting to look like something.
I laid it out, using some wood blocks to set the height. I used some vice grips to clamp the rear fork on. It will need an extra brace as will the middle of the frame. I'm using the standard fork for the design. When I add the springer I can adjust the height by the flanges and/or the spring tension. Where I have it set is at 66 inches in length. I added a band brake to the rear hub.

29 Jun mockup3.jpg


I think the board is too big, both in length and in width. I may save it for another project and get a smaller board.
 
I like the stance. Gold spokes and hubs FTW!
They used to have the band brake drum in gold, but I can't find any now. Gold grips though.
 
I'm almost ready to get the welder again. The board needs two slices up front to slide forward into the frame, just a few inches. Then the rear fork needs to be clamped in at the right spot and welded. If it's in line, then a few more braces for support and the frame should be ready.

14 July Scurf.jpg
 
I'm almost ready to get the welder again. The board needs two slices up front to slide forward into the frame, just a few inches. Then the rear fork needs to be clamped in at the right spot and welded. If it's in line, then a few more braces for support and the frame should be ready.

View attachment 200442
I want one!!!
 
It's welded up except for the braces. The welder used the string method to line it up. I eyeballed it and it was right on. I left the wheels on just for that purpose. It's an inch higher than the plan I had, but the angle of the rear fork is better. The board reaches all the way across so it won't get any cuts, it will mount just where it is. The rear part is almost flush, so I think it will bend that last 1/2 inch as I tighten it down to the frame. I need to finish cutting some braces from the old frame and have it welded again on Wednesday.



17 July braces.jpg




17 July welding.jpg




17 July frame.jpg
 
I used some scrap tubing from another old frame to make the supports. The metal in this frame is thick. I was wearing out a hacksaw blade with each cut. My tubing cutter worked in the scrap I used. It gets welded tomorrow so I had to get it done today while I cleaned up my shop. Now it's too hot but the work is done. This thing might hold two people.

18 July frame.jpg


I was able to get it up on the bench to check the clearances. The board looks good and won't need to flex to get attached.

18 July board.jpg


With all the tubing this has, I might do a bamboo paint job. It says it's easy on the website. I've also wanted to do a Tiki Bar out in the garage, but real bamboo is cheaper than PVC, it grows everywhere around here.
1658116048866.png
 
All the welding is done. Video shows the upgrade to safety measures, sunglasses.


19 July welding.jpg



19 july welding 2.jpg





Now it's going to be a lot of cleaning it all up with my dremel. I've found that cutting wheels are good for grinding small places. It's going to look like bamboo so the welds can be painted the darker brown to look like the bamboo rings. The round open ends also will work like they are, looks like bamboo.

19 July weldng 3.jpg
 
WC, your bamboo paint idea on the tubing is right on! I'll be watching this closely.
 
While doing some research on painting, I realized everything was ready to put together except for the brake cable. As I assembled it, the band brake won't work, the housing contacts the fork. So, I have a plan for a rear friction brake like the little scooters. I have two 20" fenders that can be joined together to form a heavy braking surface.
20 July band brake.jpg

There is also a lot of flex in the frame. I thought it would be solid. I tightened up the springs and flanges to where they don't move thinking that was the source, but they weren't. I aired up the tires to about 40 psi and still have a lot of flex. The welder recommended I add a piece of tubing down each side. I might have to do that.

20 July test.jpg
 
Looking slick!
Love the welding goggles

1658330390046.png





Make sure you watch out when you roll up on a curb, sidewalk, or speedbump. You don't want this to catch.

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They used to have the band brake drum in gold, but I can't find any now. Gold grips though.
If its aluminum, and not the 7075 grade, you can anodize it in gold.
I think 7075 is not ductile enough for that product, so could be another grade.

Anyway, I like your build, did not expect to!
 

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