Over a year ago, I bought a Schwinn Drifter from Sears. Even though it was a nice looking bike, I found myself wanting to change certain components to make it look like a bike that reflected more of my tastes. So, I ended up replacing the factory springer fork with an original Monark springer fork. I was content for a while, but then something unexpected occurred. Taking a closer look at what I created, I realized there was something about a straight-legged fork and a cantilever frame that just did not sit well with me. The conclusion is that I felt the fork would look better on a frame with cleaner and straighter lines. Therefore, it became much easier to remove the Monark fork from the Drifter and scrap the project altogether.
For quite some time, I've always wanted a prewar motobike and was lucky enough to get a Sears Chief frame a few months back. I've also seen Monark (mainly repop) forks on a lot of different bikes except for a frame like this one. There was no way I could not be eager about pairing the two together, for I was convinced in my heart of hearts that they would make an excellent combination. After settling on the frame and fork I was going to use, I found myself contemplating for several days whether or not to preserve the frame's original paint since it's only original once in a lifetime. Speaking of original; if you've never seen one before, here are two photos I found online of an original Sears Chief. You also will be hard pressed to come across an original Chief anywhere in better condition than the one in the second photo. Both bikes have been listed as being built in 1915. For more information on the Sears Chief, feel free to check out my newest thread: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=69534.
With that being said, I knew in the end that acquiring original parts to make such a rare bike complete and period correct would be near impossible to come by. Therefore, I decided to take the custom build route though I must admit it was a tough decision to make. Here's the mock up with the Monark springer. I did not use the 26" tires & wheels in the photo being that the frame is made for a 28" or 700c setup. The immediate challenge was to get a 28" or 700c tire to cohesively function with a springer fork made for a 26" tire. I made it work to my surprise, which I will briefly disclose at the end of the thread.
Three stage process of straight rattle can for the paint! After a few coats of primer and Krylon Fusion Satin Black as the base, I sprayed a few coats of Rust-Oleum Color Shift Galaxy Blue over the top. Hopefully, the photos show the color changing at different angles of light. One element I really like about this frame is that the metal has quite a bit of pitting, which may be very difficult to see in the photos. Since the original paint was removed, I figured the least I could do was make sure the pitting remained visible through the new paint in order to showcase the character of the frame.
Cream Contintental RetroRides (28x2.0 a.k.a. 700x50c), which have a circumferential tread design
based on a motorcycle tire known as the Conti KKS 10...
..., on black Sun CR-18 wheels (laced to Wheelsmith stainless steel double-butted spokes on black KT hubs) hand built in the U.S.A. by http://coasties.com/ will give the bike that balloon tire profile. I also felt that incorporating larger tires would be much more complimentary with the front fork, and it's better suited in conveying an overall appearance that resembles a motorcycle.
According to http://www.nostalgic.net/bicycle176, the Sears Chief was originally built with a 3-speed Sturmey Archer coaster hub, which was very unique for a bike made during the early 1900s. I've also come to find out that the Sears Chief may have been built as a single speed as well, with the New Departure Model "A" as the base hub. At one point, I considered switching to a 3-speed in the future. Now, I realize the simplicity of a single speed will do just fine.
I used Presta-to-Schrader valve adapters to install dice caps on the stems.
Tires are mounted. I have just enough clearance between the chain stays for the tire to roll freely on the drive side...
...as well as the non-drive side.
I used a Schwinn crank and sprocket but had a change of plan regarding the Troxel saddle.
For quite some time, I've always wanted a prewar motobike and was lucky enough to get a Sears Chief frame a few months back. I've also seen Monark (mainly repop) forks on a lot of different bikes except for a frame like this one. There was no way I could not be eager about pairing the two together, for I was convinced in my heart of hearts that they would make an excellent combination. After settling on the frame and fork I was going to use, I found myself contemplating for several days whether or not to preserve the frame's original paint since it's only original once in a lifetime. Speaking of original; if you've never seen one before, here are two photos I found online of an original Sears Chief. You also will be hard pressed to come across an original Chief anywhere in better condition than the one in the second photo. Both bikes have been listed as being built in 1915. For more information on the Sears Chief, feel free to check out my newest thread: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=69534.
With that being said, I knew in the end that acquiring original parts to make such a rare bike complete and period correct would be near impossible to come by. Therefore, I decided to take the custom build route though I must admit it was a tough decision to make. Here's the mock up with the Monark springer. I did not use the 26" tires & wheels in the photo being that the frame is made for a 28" or 700c setup. The immediate challenge was to get a 28" or 700c tire to cohesively function with a springer fork made for a 26" tire. I made it work to my surprise, which I will briefly disclose at the end of the thread.
Three stage process of straight rattle can for the paint! After a few coats of primer and Krylon Fusion Satin Black as the base, I sprayed a few coats of Rust-Oleum Color Shift Galaxy Blue over the top. Hopefully, the photos show the color changing at different angles of light. One element I really like about this frame is that the metal has quite a bit of pitting, which may be very difficult to see in the photos. Since the original paint was removed, I figured the least I could do was make sure the pitting remained visible through the new paint in order to showcase the character of the frame.
Cream Contintental RetroRides (28x2.0 a.k.a. 700x50c), which have a circumferential tread design
based on a motorcycle tire known as the Conti KKS 10...
..., on black Sun CR-18 wheels (laced to Wheelsmith stainless steel double-butted spokes on black KT hubs) hand built in the U.S.A. by http://coasties.com/ will give the bike that balloon tire profile. I also felt that incorporating larger tires would be much more complimentary with the front fork, and it's better suited in conveying an overall appearance that resembles a motorcycle.
According to http://www.nostalgic.net/bicycle176, the Sears Chief was originally built with a 3-speed Sturmey Archer coaster hub, which was very unique for a bike made during the early 1900s. I've also come to find out that the Sears Chief may have been built as a single speed as well, with the New Departure Model "A" as the base hub. At one point, I considered switching to a 3-speed in the future. Now, I realize the simplicity of a single speed will do just fine.
I used Presta-to-Schrader valve adapters to install dice caps on the stems.
Tires are mounted. I have just enough clearance between the chain stays for the tire to roll freely on the drive side...
...as well as the non-drive side.
I used a Schwinn crank and sprocket but had a change of plan regarding the Troxel saddle.
8)
