Setback seatpost for cruiser?

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UncleKudzu

UncleKudzu

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Hey, people! Been out of the game for a while with ticker-related issues and wondered if anyone has come up with the ultimate easy seat post setback solution for cruiser bikes while I wasn't looking? Gotta get up high and a little to the back on my Murray rust ride. That bike is so much fun to ride, but I'd like to ride it a bit further without being so cramped up in the cockpit.

TIA. I'll be searching in the meantime.
 
This bike has a Murray frame, and I did just you were talking about, added some legroom. This laid back stem was made by slowriderz.

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I have used mtb. bike bar ends, I don't trust them! But they are cheap! Use steel, not aluminum.
 
Thanks, guys!

So that solid seat post looks like it would hold up my 210 lbs. Is it bad heavy though? And yeah, the mtn bike handle bars have crossed my mind. had one in hand yesterday that might fit...

I love the way my little Murray handles; it's a blast to ride in areas that include sidewalks, railroad crossings, etc. I'd like to get more use out of it. My old Schwinn Sierra is my choice for rides of any length, but that Murray is great around the neighborhood!
 
Not the " ultimate easy solution" ; my getto solution for my Murray 13/16" seatpost. I had a piece left over that I had cut off of the bottom of a 15 1/2" long Wald #955 that fit the Murray seat tube. A piece of plumbing known as 3/8" black pipe nipple fits tight inside of the Wald seatpost. I put a 90 degree elbow on the pipe nipple,placed the seatpost on a block of wood,and hammered on the elbow to drive the pipe down into it.Then added another pipe nipple to the elbow for the setback.To prevent the pipe from moving,I drilled a 1/8" hole through the Wald seatpost and pipe nipple above the frame,and hammered in a rollpin. I am 240 ish and this has worked well for me.
 
UncleKudzu said:
Thanks, guys!

So that solid seat post looks like it would hold up my 210 lbs. Is it bad heavy though?
Click to expand...

You're 210 and you're worried about how much a seat post weighs? :p That's rich! 8) Gary
 
B607 said:
You're 210 and you're worried about how much a seat post weighs? :p That's rich! 8) Gary
Click to expand...

OK, Mr. SmartyPants, point taken ;) But I sometimes shoulder my bike up stairs and would like to keep it reasonably light. And hey, if I get my bike more ridable maybe I'll lose some of that 210.

slowriderz said:
Shipped weight for a standard length 13/16 with 7/8 seat clamp is 2.3 pounds.
Click to expand...

Thank you, slowriderz. I read some of the posts about your seatposts and all were favorable. Looks like a reasonable solution to a common need.
 
UncleKudzu said:
B607 said:
You're 210 and you're worried about how much a seat post weighs? :p That's rich! 8) Gary
Click to expand...

OK, Mr. SmartyPants, point taken ;) But I sometimes shoulder my bike up stairs and would like to keep it reasonably light. And hey, if I get my bike more ridable maybe I'll lose some of that 210.

slowriderz said:
Shipped weight for a standard length 13/16 with 7/8 seat clamp is 2.3 pounds.
Click to expand...

Thank you, slowriderz. I read some of the posts about your seatposts and all were favorable. Looks like a reasonable solution to a common need.
Click to expand...

I made it to 200 once and my knees hurts so bad I couldn't ride my bike. Back down to 175 now and much better on the knees. Good luck on the losing. You biking will no doubt help. Gary
 
Totally off topic now.
I made it to 237 lbs., seems like I constantly hurt, had gas, couldn't breathe, and was disgusting.
I got a daily rider, lost some and started breaking parts....
6 months later, my daily rider, "Spike," the road dawg weighs in at an astounding 52 pounds, I ride it 16.4 miles daily, no stairs.
Down to 195 and holding....
I am cutting off handle bars to make slight laidbacks, they are not strong so I ride light in the saddle.
I run bmx and touring sized seats, keeps.my butt off them!
Ride for life, live to ride!
 
Make a gallows or lucky 7 post by welding a piece of another post on the top of the original. Hammer black pipe into the part of the post that’s clamped into the frame (may have to be slightly ground down) using JB Weld as a lubricant. It will never bend. If you can’t weld, have a machine shop do it. I use an inexpensive Wald long post reinforced with the black pipe to prevent bending. The 1900 demise of American cycling was mostly due to the cumbersome and fragile American, cheap to manufacture, single tube tires combined with tall frames that put the seat on the top tube and very grunty tall gearing. American manufactures responded to the demise with heavy styling junk that didn’t improve performance, just added weight, shortened the tallness of the frame but kept the seat post short like it was when the seat sat on the frame in the 1890s and kept the gearing tall. They didn’t fit children or adults and weighed up to 50 pounds. I sold my 50 pound tank bikes because I couldn’t lift them for storage. They look cool but are not praticle. Meanwhile, the euros concentrated on city and touring bikes, made for convince, not looks. So, if a big adult wants to comfortably ride something that fit no one, mods are in order. Taller lay back posts and easier gearing. The American bicycle manufacturers shot themselves by not coming up with a better business plan. We made exquisite machine parts on these early bikes but the bikes were not very universal. Their allure in my eyes is because there was nothing else like them, only in America. The imitations by other countries just doesn’t measure up.
 
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