Try this site:Question: Does anyone know of an existing font pack that is identical to or similar to the kind Murray used on their head badges in the 1950s/1960s? I'm trying to find something that looks close to this:
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Try this site:Question: Does anyone know of an existing font pack that is identical to or similar to the kind Murray used on their head badges in the 1950s/1960s? I'm trying to find something that looks close to this:
View attachment 197454
Cool site! Unfortunately, it couldn't find the right font, or one close enough for me.Try this site:
It worked for me many times.![]()
I'm currently browsing dafont.com to see if I can find anything. I'm not too concerned about having the exact same font as that Murray sticker, but I'd like to try and get it as close as possible.Try this site:
It worked for me many times.![]()
Thanks Kingfish!Great job cleaning away all of that rusty bearing lube.
The light and mount are coming along nicely!
Thanks! I'm kind of leaning towards the perforated aluminum myself, but that all depends on the rest of the design elements. I want there to be a continuity, so having either all khaki or all aluminum (or even both khaki and aluminum for all decor pieces) would be the best way to go about it, I think. I might sketch up a few ideas later today to see what might work best.I like those ideas. The frame trim should look cool. The headlight surround looks nice. I think the VW looks best with the holey metal behind it, but you could put khaki behind the holey panel.
That is the inner "designer" speaking. Good results are easier to achieve with a limited paletteI want there to be a continuity
Definitely. Helps that I'm an illustrator/graphic designer by trade. Odds are I'll go with the stained khaki material all around, so it ties in with the seat, but it's oh so tempting to use that aluminum sheet metal... Sometimes it's hard to stick to a limited palette, but I enjoy creative challenges like this.That is the inner "designer" speaking. Good results are easier to achieve with a limited palette
Try using a scotch Brite pad to scuff those sidewalls first to break the surface and possibly add a few drops of brown/red/black (whatever "dirty" isMade a small bit of progress yesterday. I removed the bearings and bearing cups on everything except the coaster brake hub, which I'm soaking in some PB Blaster to help loosen up. I noticed that a good deal of rust and sediment had found its way inside the bearings and cups, especially in the bottom bracket. These bearing cups were clean when I first installed them. So that means I'm going to need to clean out the inside of the frame before I put everything back together.
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I did a quick wipe with a cloth, and most of the gunk came off just fine. I'm counting on my ultrasonic cleaner to handle the rest.
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Here are all the parts besides the coaster brake I took apart yesterday. I took apart a front hub on a spare wheel just in case, but the bearings seem to be slightly larger than the ones from the wheel I plan to use.
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Had another idea that would be fun to try down the road: using the cargo pockets on my old work pants as saddle bags over the rear rack. I like the idea, but I think it'll look too busy for what I'm trying to achieve. Maybe another time.
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One other thing I did yesterday was experiment with dirtying up the front tire to match the rear tire. I wanted to try something I saw Ian Roussel do on Full Custom Garage. He had this Great Depression-era car he was building for a client, and to make it look like it had driven through The Dust Bowl, he mixed some fine silt and water into a texture gun, and basically sprayed mud on the car! I didn't have a texture gun, but I did have a cheap spray bottle and some imagination. Now all I needed was some dirt. There's not a lot of dirt where I live, but it's not uncommon for me to find a mole hill in the yard!
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I scooped up a small sample, and used a strainer from the kitchen to sift the dirt and filter out all the large dirt clods. Once I accomplished that, I mixed a little silt with water and filled up my spray bottle with the solution.
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Here's the tire before I started spraying.
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And here's what it looked like after I gave up and just started dumping the solution out of the spray bottle and onto the tire. Turns out all the spray bottle was good for was making the tire wet and slightly dirty. I needed a different approach...
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I decided to just mix a minimal amount of water with all the silt I made, and basically make some fine mud. I dipped a dirty sock in the mix, and just wiped that on the sidewalls of the tire.
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Much better.
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The front tire still outshines the rear tire, especially out in the sun, but it looks much better now.
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There's still an issue though. While the front tire looks nice and dirty now, all it'd take to clean up is a quick dusting or a splash of water. Whatever's on the back tire won't come off as easily. It could be a mix of age, grease, oil, and/or being sandwiched between other tires while in storage. Whatever it is, it'd take a bit more than some water to clean those sidewalls. The dirt on the front tire also got clumped inside the treads and the bead, which I don't want at all. So while the front tire looks "better" than before, it's not as good of a solution as I'd like. Fortunately, I still have a few more ideas on how to dirty it up!
I like that idea! I want to try something else first, but that's definitely an idea to keep in mind. Oddly enough, that idea's similar to how I plan to dirty up the khaki fabric I plan to use elsewhere on my bike.Try using a scotch Brite pad to scuff those sidewalls first to break the surface and possibly add a few drops of brown/red/black (whatever "dirty" is) acrylic paint to your water solution
I have a friend that used to work in prop making and is a big cosplay guy now. He uses basically the water, dirt, paint combo on all of his clothes and props for Wasteland Weekend. Along with rub n buff
As a former propsmaster myself I would say this sounds very promising to achieve the desired outcome of a worn and aged tyre!Try using a scotch Brite pad to scuff those sidewalls first to break the surface and possibly add a few drops of brown/red/black (whatever "dirty" is) acrylic paint to your water solution
I have a friend that used to work in prop making and is a big cosplay guy now. He uses basically the water, dirt, paint combo on all of his clothes and props for Wasteland Weekend. Along with rub n buff
As a former propsmaster myself I would say this sounds very promising to achieve the desired outcome of a worn and aged tyre!
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