SIDEBOLT

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:39: I've been thinking that I might strip down Chopster and Number 9 (since I can't sell them) to use the frames on SIDEBOLT. I'd cut them up and create a new design for SIDEBOLT that doesn't rely on buying new RHS. That will be a last resort scenario. :( If only someone would buy one :angelic:

In the meantime, this is a quick 3d model of my proposed single sided fork for SIDEBOLT if it gets done with RHS...


Glen.
 
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This looks good [emoji106]
 
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You totally can pull off that fork. I am using the Canondale version on Klunker, "Skip."
54cb958e3f778e4f55a78dce3801d626.jpg

3530bb24b71878cd827bc8344525d750.jpg



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I put the 1936 Chev wheel next to Chopster today and confirmed my thought that SIDEBOLT really needs chunkier steel...

018_WheelChopster.jpg


It just doesn't look right to me, so I'll most likely hold off until I can afford to buy the steel I want, rather than compromise. I always seem to end up compromising due to lack of money, and I'm always disappointed as a result. :(

In the meantime, I'll just keep thinking and planning. :39:

Glen.
 

kingfish254

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Maybe you can double up tubes to get the visual mass you want? Or add panels.
 
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Maybe you can double up tubes to get the visual mass you want? Or add panels.

Thought about that, but I don't know that I have enough old bikes to use for donor steel. :39:

Boy... you're lucky you don't live on a first floor like I do ;-)

Yes... yes indeed. However, the area I live is hilly and the driveway up to the house I rent is a steep shingle one, so even getting this beast home, assuming I get the gearing right, is going to be a mission. o_O

Speaking of gearing, I'm not up on that so advice from anyone would be welcomed. My thinking is that, to be able to ride an incline, the chainring would need to be small with the rear gear large... is that right?

Glen.
 
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Certainly a smaller than usual front and a larger than usual rear will be your friend, I think BigJim in first gear was 36/24 front to rear and top was 36/13, but to be honest, I mostly used only first and second gear unless I was going downhill...

Luke.
 
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I did another 3d model, this time representing my idea for a drivetrain on SIDEBOLT. Here is a screencast...


And here is a photo of an old 20 inch rim placed roughly in position to see if it might work...

019_DriveWheel.jpg


I'm thinking leather drive belt, but any thoughts on other materials would be appreciated. o_O

Glen.
 
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Leather should certainly work.
Really don't think you will need the added disc brake though...

Luke.

My thoughts with the disc brake is that it would be operated by a conventional handlebar lever so I can use it easily when riding slowly through town. The drums will be operated by a vertical "suicide" lever for down hill riding etc.. :39:

Glen
 
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I think I'd look at setting up a functional parking/emergency brake instead of the little bike disc brake.
Partly because the bike brake is undersized, mostly because it would be that much cooler!
Although, if you're using two front backing plates, it might not be worth the trouble.

Either way, love it!!!
 

kingfish254

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I haven't done much except enquire about brake drum skimming because these '36 Chev drums need it, but at $135... that's not going to happen :39:. So I started sanding them to get the surface rust off...

020_BrakeDrum.jpg


That'll have to do until I'm ready to get them skimmed. :rolleyes:

Also, I had some money in my paypal account so I ordered some wheel cylinders. Two shipped from USA for less than one here in NZ. :113:

I'm rethinking my design to use any old bike frames and leftover steel tube instead of the RHS I had planned on. This is the result...

021_PlanV2.jpg


Just need to get a new hacksaw blade and then I can actually start building. o_O

Glen.
 

kingfish254

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I like the changes and I am glad its going to let you keep on building.
 
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