Sleazy Rider

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I rounded the ends using my dremel clone. Lights off for a video. Sparks!



Then I finished it up with a hand file. I connected it all up, but the spring will mount differently once the board gets attached. It's just clamped on for now. Still no board, so I may have to order from a different seller. The 31 inch boards are more common and will work also, as long as it's wide enough.
It works fairly well. The spring is stronger than it needs to be, adding a second spring might fix that. As it is now, the cranks spring back with too much force.

drivetrain mock1.jpg
 
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The board arrived finally. Looks like it went through 4 countries first.
board5 - Copy.jpg


The size was as advertised, 34 x 10. I measured out 4 places to drill holes for the mounting. The board is concave and has an upswing at the back. The tail almost fits the curve of the frame. I could slide it back to fit, but it would contact the rear tire.
I need it to fit flush with the two bottom tubes, so I may notch out a section. My plan is to make 4 brackets, 2" on top, 8" on the bottom to mount the board.

board1.jpg


board3.jpg


board4.jpg
 
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I need to cut the 8 supports out, I'll use the thicker metal bar. That can wait until it cools off. I'll have to get some new hacksaw blades. Maybe more sparks!
I need bolts 1/2 inch longer to work.
I cut out the notch, drilled the holes and tried it on. I have an inch or two of leeway to slide it forward or backward. It looks like it's made for this frame.


board 6.jpg
 

OddJob

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WC, just curious, don't you want your cranks facing forward, so when you push the pedal fodward and down, the strap will ride up and forward away from your board?
drivetrain mock1.jpg
drivetrain mock1.jpg
 
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I dug out the heavier bar of steel and it's ready for cutting. Four 2" pieces for the top brackets. The lower ones might be different sizes to match the board, but 8" might be good for all four. A trip to the hardware store first for some hacksaw blades.
hacksaw.jpg


I tried a center stand and it just barely had enough room to mount ahead of the board. It can mount in the rear but might be better up front. I mocked it up and had a look. It looks like I'll drill a hole to mount the spring in the back of the board to get the chain aligned just right.
The 16 tooth cog will go on, when I tested the present 18 tooth, it didn't give me enough rotation of the wheel per push of the cranks.

mockup2 22 May 22.jpg
 
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The parts were cut and laid out. Now they get rounded with a file then drilled for the bolts. Then to the hardware for 2 1/2" bolts and washers/locknuts. The store with the hacksaw blades had everything but larger bolts today.

board supports.jpg

I will shape the bottom braces to follow the concave of the board, so they mesh up smoothly. Sounds easy, but I think it'll take some doing. I will number each brace 1-4 so they will have the best fit for that part of the board.

Browsing the 2 online sites here like Amazon, I found a 20" springer, same as the larger cheap repops. I might spring for one, but at 40 bucks is pushing the bike budget.
1653212991568.png
 
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Why is the board on the bottom of the frame instead of the top?
That's a darn good question. There wasn't a real good reason except to keep the height lower. That's not an issue now, so I tried the board on top. I like it! More foot room. The notch may need to be longer. But it sits flush on the two tubes of the frame, so maybe braces across the bottom aren't needed. I could've saved 30 minutes of sawing yesterday.

board on top.jpg



The drive system won't work with the board on top, the drive bar is too low, but I had thought of placing the bar attachment on the crank higher up previously. That will clear the board and give more length on the pull with each push. So it will be two single crank arms, another plus. I just need to make up the bar connection. I could drill a hole but that might weaken the crank arm. Or drill through both for a 1/8th rod that would serve as a stop along with the bar connection.

That's another good thing about this site, getting tips. Sometimes things are right in front of you and you can't see it, like proofreading your own work. With that in mind I stopped and looked around to see if I was missing anything else. Sure enough, I have everything needed for a 20" springer. Not the cheap repop kind, but a Monark style springer. Like this but home made. I noticed that they didn't make those in 20".

1653263719468.png


Lots to do.
 
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The Splat Rat was designed to run as a regular bike or with a springer. The spring assembly comes off, leaving the standard fork. That's where I'm getting some parts without dismantling a bike. It lowered the height and I lowered the seat; now the wife can ride it.

springer1.jpg

standard fork.jpg




These are all the parts for a springer for Scurf. The gray fork is the main fork and stays just like it is. I will cut the new chrome fork like the green fork, then bolt it all up to see if the big or small springs work better and see how it fits the frame. I'm holding off on doing any cutting until I reassess the whole thing a couple times.

scurf springer.jpg
 
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I spent 4 hours out in the shop today. I think rainy season has begun, so down in the bunker it isn't so hot. I drilled out the brackets for the board, but all my drill bits are worn out, so only half got drilled. They all got a starter hole though. Another trip to the hardware store for bits tomorrow. After I made the cutout larger, I mounted the board using 2 of the bolts I picked up today.

board cutout 2.jpg


I don't like the 2" brackets, I think a metal strip all the way down the middle will work and look better. I put the center stand on the rear to have a look and hold while I worked on the springer. It will get trimmed down if I use it.

springermock 23 May.jpg


I tried several different layouts for the springer. This one kept the board level at a height of 10 inches and will work with the big springs.

I'll cut the fork tomorrow and bolt it together.

springermock2.jpg


My gold hubs showed up, along with the new pedals. All sealed bearings. I originally was going to lace up hubs for this build. The two speed Sram auto fixed that, but I have an extra set of hubs to add to the bin.
I need two left pedals for my setup though. I'll order another pair instead of cutting on a right side crank.

gold hubs.jpg
 

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Def 'board on top' is where it's at!
You could chop the legs (after you are all done) on your double kickstand if you want it to not be as popped up in the rear at rest.

Diggin' the ultra unique style of this build! RaT oN~!
 
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I think I will drill a hole for the drive bar in the crank arm. If it's drilled for a 5/8ths pedal, it should be strong enough for an extra 3/8ths hole. That would also change my gear ratio, like going from a 32 tooth chain wheel to about a 46 tooth chain wheel. With a 16 tooth cog and a 26" wheel should have a gear index of about 74. That might be too high, but I can put the 18 tooth cog back on for a 65 GI. I won't know until I actually try to pedal this thing.

I'm ready to try it out. I need brakes first.
1653348976140.png


drivetrain mock1 - Copy.jpg
 
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The Splat Rat was designed to run as a regular bike or with a springer. The spring assembly comes off, leaving the standard fork. That's where I'm getting some parts without dismantling a bike. It lowered the height and I lowered the seat; now the wife can ride it.

View attachment 194436
View attachment 194435



These are all the parts for a springer for Scurf. The gray fork is the main fork and stays just like it is. I will cut the new chrome fork like the green fork, then bolt it all up to see if the big or small springs work better and see how it fits the frame. I'm holding off on doing any cutting until I reassess the whole thing a couple times.

View attachment 194434
The Splat Rat is totally cool: does the seat pass the wifey test?

Forks a super cool, but that seat looks awesom on the bike.
 
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The Splat Rat is totally cool: does the seat pass the wifey test?

Forks a super cool, but that seat looks awesom on the bike.
No, it was already retrieved. For a future build. Some pics of the standard seat are in this post.

I finished up the springer and checked it out, it seems to be the right size and works. The board is level and there's plenty of travel in the fork.

24 May3.jpg

Looks somewhat like a Monark fork.
24 May5.jpg

25 May7.jpg

I swapped handlebar stems too. This one is off a 90's Earth Cruiser. Then I took 2 1/2" inches off the ends of the handlebars.
24 May2.jpg
24 May1.jpg
There's room for the grips and a brake handle. It'll need a very long cable. With the board higher, the brake cable will run under the board. I had wanted a foot brake but there's no space to make that easy to use.
24 May4.jpg
 
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I had wanted a foot brake but there's no space to make that easy to use.
Why not mount a break handle as low as possible to the seat bar, grip pointing up, then hinge a plate or similar to the board in a way that the upper edge presses on to the breaklever, when you apply pressure on the plate?
Seems to be plenty of room for that...
 
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Why not mount a break handle as low as possible to the seat bar, grip pointing up, then hinge a plate or similar to the board in a way that the upper edge presses on to the breaklever, when you apply pressure on the plate?
Seems to be plenty of room for that...
Can you draw a pic of that, or show something similar? Is right here what you were talking about?
24 May4 - Copy.jpg

I could also do the fender brake like I've seen on small kid's scooters. It hinges and contacts the tire, using friction on the tire as a brake.

1653382341816.png
 
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I think I get the idea. I see you went to the same computer graphics school as me! Small world. :rofl:

rear brake.jpg

With the drive bar running along the side, I think that will take too much engineering prowess on my part. But looking at it gave me an idea.
The fender brake like the kid's scooters would be difficult, it's a 26" tire and I would need to raise up to depress it with my foot. But if it was below the frame I could just push down on a pedal and it would contact the tire underneath. Then a spring would return it back to position. The brake pedals would be at the very end of the board and be activated by either foot. I can use a heavy fender made for a motorcycle.

rear wheel set.jpg
 

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