Splat Rat

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metalchewy

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175mm cranks are always good on the mountains and hills. They give you that little extra umph to get to the top. That three piece Campagnolo looking one has great looks. 👍
 
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I'm scrapping the idea of a steel cottered crankset and going with one the three piece sets I have. Those are all 170 mm, just different colors. Maybe it will get spatter paint also. They are 47 and 48 teeth. I may have to add a larger cog, maybe a 20 or 21 instead of 18. The test ride will tell.
 
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I can't get a spindle, so the Riff Ratt has the last cottered set I'll do.
Oct 09 21b.jpg


Since I'm going with an alloy 3 piece crankset, the all steel old school one speed coaster klunker idea is out the window. I have a set of double wall rims with a Shimano cluster that will fill the bill. I just need to lace up the front wheel. So now gearing won't be an issue and I'll install a V brake on the rear. I could also add a band brake as an extra.

wheelset1.jpg
 
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Better yet, (again) I remembered this gold set of hubs from Chrome Molly that I changed out. Back to one speed, but freewheel now. The bearings are pressed in somehow and I can't adjust the axle length for the cluster.
Gold springs, chainwheel and hubs should go good with the splatter paint.
gold1.jpg

I ordered more colors of paint since it was so cheap and I may change up the colors, but the camo colors are my favorite so far. I'll have to do some more experimentation. I've got a 24" bike I just laced up wheels for that will get a splatter paint job.
 
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How many more mm of axle threads are needed? Is there any sort of identification on the hubs? Can't go wrong with gold:wink1: Good looking stuff, doesn't have to be high-end to get the job done.
 
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Just a few threads in difference, but the wheel is dished for the freewheel, a cluster would move the centerline over a lot. The sealed bearings are new to me, I've never worked on any. I think the freewheel will work ok, I have a choice of 20 or 22 teeth.
 
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Got it, the axle is not long enough on the drive side to support a cluster with that wide a flange separation (being a single speed hub). A dished wheel is weaker as well. There are several sealed types. Yours should looks like the example.
sealed.jpg


A 20-22T should be about right with the size chaining you're using.
 
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That looks like it. Good thing I didn't put it the vise and force it!
 
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I use a thread protector on the end of the axle (2 locked nuts together) striking the end with a heavy mallet or hammer. It will come out with a bearing attached to one end, the other remains in the hub. There are long axle replacements made for 135mm spaced dropouts. To remove the bearing from the axle, drop the axle through an elevated hole on a bench slightly larger than the axle shoulder, giving the end a whack(protecting the axle threads once again). The axle will fall through. Place oversized(larger than the bearing diameter) thick washers on both sides and tighten the axle nuts together to press the bearings in. Tap one end of the axle lightly with a hammer if the axle feels tight or binding when spinning the first time. Obviously, remove the lock nuts beforehand. Some bearings take effort to budge. A very hard lateral strike could make the bearing run less smoothly. They can be reused in most cases. Axles are sold with new bearings.
 
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It's got a 20 tooth cog, should be good to go with the 47 tooth chain wheel. About a 63 GI.
I went out to measure for the flanges and make a cardboard template that the metal shop will cut and drill out. I wound up trimming the fork tube and mounting the crankset and wheels. The flanges will extend the front wheel down and forward about 60 mm. That should give plenty of height.

mock 17 Nov 21.jpg
 
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I need some kind of shim for the oversize seat tube, it measures over 30 mm. Or maybe I can get a big seat stem.
I designed a rocker for the springer, keeping it simple. This is as advanced as my mechanical drawing gets.
Where the wheel will sit is important for the handling of the bike, so I made the holes at different lengths, 50, 60, and 70 mm so it can be placed to give various angles to the wheel. It's just a triangle, no fancy curves, and the holes are the same size, 5/16ths, so it can be set any configuration. The front axle won't have a slot, it will bolt to one of the holes, then the rocker will bolt up to the fork legs. That way the wheel can't come off when riding it on rough terrain.

rocker1.jpg
 
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I should have 6 different settings for my front wheel if I figured correctly. I've got the cutout ready for the steel shop.
My paints showed up so I've sat and tried to come up with a color scheme. I think silver as the base with red, white, and yellow splattered on might work.

paints.jpg
 
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I still have to design some kind of rocker for mine, once I get the wheels built.

Because the rocker will move through an arc, I also need to figure out a way of including some compliance in the system, either at the top or the bottom of the suspension.
 
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I looked through your thread again and didn't see a rendering of your fork(s). Do you have a plan already or just an idea?
 
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I have a plan, but I have been moving my bike operations from the farm to the city, which has meant that the frame has been in one location and the forks in another. Now that everything is back together (I hope), I plan to start figuring out the metal parts I will need for the forks over the weekend.
 

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