BO15 Splinter (or how I learned to love a LOT of sanding)

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I'm finally going to build a bike I've always wanted to make. Been throwing around ideas for years and started collecting parts and materials since the end of last year.

The plan, pretty close to this design:
20200430_211049.jpg


The material:
20200426_164914.jpg

20200430_195821.jpg


I've done some woodworking before, nothing on this scale, and 4 months is going to be a tight time-line.
 
Laminate monocoque frame or layered and "assembled'? Wood wheels too? :grin:
Layered and "assembled"! Yes, wooden spokes at least.

Here's the parts I have so far
20200501_085143.jpg


Generator from hub for lights, roller brakes for stopping and a 7speed internal rear hub
 
That design has the vibe of an animal skeleton and rib cage. This is gonna be fun to watch.
 
Yeah, figured that would be the easiest way to get a solid hold for the bottom bracket.

I need to find a donor "pipe" for the head tube that would fit a 1 1/8 steerer.
FWIW- a 1.5” x 0.083” gives an i.d of 33.88mm - perfect for an EC34 headset, after a bit of reaming. I’ve used them before. Aircraft spruce will cut and ship even small lengths of 4130. Only $6.60/ft + shipping.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130tubing_un1.php
Or, of course, cut & grind a cheap steel frame (c-list/ dumpster/ roadside). But $$ vs. time and effort is each person’s decision.
 
FWIW- a 1.5” x 0.083” gives an i.d of 33.88mm - perfect for an EC34 headset, after a bit of reaming. I’ve used them before. Aircraft spruce will cut and ship even small lengths of 4130. Only $6.60/ft + shipping.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130tubing_un1.php
Or, of course, cut & grind a cheap steel frame (c-list/ dumpster/ roadside). But $$ vs. time and effort is each person’s decision.
Any reason why this, in a 34mm ID wouldn't work?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/113350850684
 
I imagine that would work just fine. I can only weld steel, so I've only ever looked at steel. You may want to put a caliper on the headset bearing cup, where it inserts into the head tube, just to be sure it'll be a tight press-fit. I don't have any here that are not installed to check.

On the steel at 33.88mm, I do run a headset reamer to get the "proper" slope and exacting dimensions, but not much material has to be removed. (an expensive tool, but I was trying to build a lot more frames, once upon a time.) I suppose if the press fit is not tight, adhesive would work, but just make the headset cup a more permanent fixture than standard. Not the end of the world.
 
Extremely ambitious. Hopefully once finished it doesn’t lumber down the road.

furyus
 

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