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kingfish254

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Question for the RRB hive mind: Will LEDs designed for 12v automotive applications run on a little 9v battery? This one says yes:
View attachment 201895

(I put it in as a thumbnail because it's a LONG screenshot)
The problem is they're like 5 bucks each.

When I look up similar stuff on Amazon, it's way cheaper, but they just say 12v, there's no range listed:
View attachment 201897

Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks!



Yes, I've done that a couple of times.

I had a 9V battery run a section of 12v car ribbon lights in this chainguard for Flexy in B07 as well as a ribbon of them in the rear springer shroud.

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A second 9V ran a circle of strip lights for the headlight

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kingfish254

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I sectioned a flask to hold the rear battery with the switch hidden under the cap of the flask

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Yes, I've done that a couple of times.

I had a 9V battery run a section of 12v car ribbon lights in this chainguard for Flexy in B07 as well as a ribbon of them in the rear springer shroud.

View attachment 201898 View attachment 201902




A second 9V ran a circle of strip lights for the headlight

View attachment 201899 View attachment 201901




View attachment 201903
I can confirm that and add that if you run LEDs on lower voltage they even last longer than the already do! So it's a double win!
I did this as well many times and very often, depending on the size of the light, you can integrate everything (LED, 9V battery and switch) into the housing without any outer cables. 👍
 
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Stopped today at a local place called Surplus City that has a little bit of everything. Kinda like Tractor Supply meets Michael's Crafts, but just the leftover clearance stuff. I remembered they had a whole section of truck and tractor lighting stuff, so I figured I might find something interesting. Sure enough:

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This looks like the one I was looking at thru Amazon. But they want $3.99 here, I can get 10 for $10 online.
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All this stuff is 12v LED. Definitely need to keep this in mind.

When I saw the little round 3/4 inch ones, like actually got to look at them up close, I figured I'd just order a bag online and keep some for future projects. But then I got a look at this one (see also first picture above) and it somehow really seemed to fit with the shapes of other stuff on the bike, like the tank and the "instrument panel," and it ended up coming home with me, along with this slighty oversize cable TV blockoff plate:
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Not exactly sure how it's going to come together yet, but I'm looking at something along these lines:
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I'll have to come up with some kind of bezel or housing to mount the light under the plate , and I need to figure out how to finish the plate to match the bike. I have some ideas, we'll see how they work out.
 
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Got some things in the mail yesterday, starting with these momentary-on buttons.
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Pretty small, looks like just about the right size to fit in the "dashboard." Need to dremel off the rivet to remove the original one, will be checking on that soon.

Also got this Fleabay purchase. I had seen a pair of nice white Western Flyer grips that would look right on my bike. But the seller wanted $35 for a pair of grips. I kept scrolling. Then I saw this for $29:
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Same grips as the other auction, plus a stem that I thought would look good on this bike, for $30. (Anybody need the bars? I don't.)

Time to get tinkering. Took it all apart; these are slated to be installed as soon as I can spend a few minutes in the garage:
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I like the grips better than both the ones I got with the bike and the ones I stuck on from my basement stash:
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Plus these have the added benefit of not being blown out.

Also mocked up a version of the taillight and filler panel just to see what I was working with.
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Not necessarily terrible, but without any kind of finish, the whole thing looks very much like random stuff from the workbench just tacked on. If I can't bring it together with paint and fauxtina to look at least somewhat like the rest of the bike, I'll start from scratch with something simpler.
 
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kingfish254

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Great score on teh grips.
I like your ideas on the tailight. The metal electrical box cover would probably work better as OJ pointed out. Also while you are there grab a single gang switch box like this. You can slice it so that it fits in your space and the cover plate will screw right to it. I believe they also sell shallow versions of these.


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Finally got around to slathering some JB Weld into those pedals from @OddJob . Clamped them and let them sit for a couple days, then I dabbed some flat white paint on to make the repair less obvious.
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I'll probably do another round of flat white, but i think they look good enough for service as they are.

In other news, I picked up a metal outlet box cover at Lowe's, and I ordered 10 of the .75-inch red truck LEDs from Amazon for $9. I also swapped out the grips and stem but haven't taken pictures yet.
 
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Well, today I tore into the tank again. I hated to make any irreversible changes, but in order to put a decent functioning horn button in, I had to grind off the rivet to remove the existing hardware.
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The new button looks right at home in the dashboard.
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Here's the whole mess rewired together. Yes, I did use a USB extension cable to connect the headlight/battery assembly to the dashboard. I needed an easy and reliable way to unplug stuff to change the batteries when necessary. Please don't judge my horrible Rube Goldberg wiring techniques.
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That black wire with the blue crimped-on ring terminal gets grounded to one of the screws that holds the headlight assembly to the tank.
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Quick video to show both the lights and horn working.



The new switchgear isn't the same as the original, but I think it's a nice upgrade and looks correct for the era. Pretty pleased with how it came out; I just hope my wiring job holds up to occasional rides.
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Now to get working on that taillight treatment...
 

OddJob

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I am mystified by you guys who have those electrical adaptation skills from old to new! Front light / tank / horn turned out great.

RaT oN~!
 

Couch tater

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Here's the whole mess rewired together. Yes, I did use a USB extension cable to connect the headlight/battery assembly to the dashboard. I needed an easy and reliable way to unplug stuff to change the batteries when necessary. Please don't judge my horrible Rube Goldberg wiring techniques

I'm a truck mechanic by trade and if you want to hear the full width and breadth of my cussing talents, bring sketchy wiring into my shop. The one exception is rat rod wiring where the sketchier, the better. Outstanding work on your Goldberg wiring!
 

kingfish254

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Killer work. I love the idea of repurposing a USB cable as a quick disconnect.
Twenty years from now a future owner will be thinking, wow, they had USB cables in the 60s!!!
 

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