The Bike From U.N.C.L.E. ......... S.T.R.E.T.C.H. that is..- 1930s Stretched Colson - - More Forkin Around

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kingfish254

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I sent him these pics via FB messenger and he could tell that the gap wasn't right. I had raised the front legs too much. The angle of the top of the rocker needs to be greater than the 90 degrees that I had it at. Sure enough, I measure more precisely and discovered it wasn't an even gap.
He also said that to properly setup the fork, I should block up the frame at the desired height, so that it doesn't push down on the fork. So I found some buckets that worked for the job. I also cut a wooden ship to check the gap better.

Here it is now. I don't have time to prep and cut the legs tonight, but now that I know it's all alligned correctly, I will be able to do that sometime this week hopefully.

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Ulu

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I mentioned that pipe cutter issue a couple pages back. You can protect the tube from the pipe cutter, but if this is 4130 steel, don’t expect it to cut like electrical conduit. You’ll have to retire that cutting blade afterwards.

A grinder is definitely more practical when you get to that hard of a steel.

Pipe cutters are made for soft iron pipe and thin tubing.
 

kingfish254

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I mentioned that pipe cutter issue a couple pages back. You can protect the tube from the pipe cutter, but if this is 4130 steel, don’t expect it to cut like electrical conduit. You’ll have to retire that cutting blade afterwards.

A grinder is definitely more practical when you get to that hard of a steel.

Pipe cutters are made for soft iron pipe and thin tubing.

Yeah, that was one of the reasons I checked in with him after I saw how weak the pipe cutters looked at the hardware stores.
 

OddJob

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I'm not quite understanding the 'gap' issue? Isn't the distance between the triple tree legs and the springer legs, a 'fixed' distance; by a clamp at the top? The only thing that would affect fork action to me would be the angle at the dropout, whether that was allowing the springer to move as intended. The gap should be parallel (the same distance) all the way down the legs in my mind. Unless that bracket at the top is adjustable, not just up and down but in and out, and I'm not seeing it.
 

kingfish254

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I'm not quite understanding the 'gap' issue? Isn't the distance between the triple tree legs and the springer legs, a 'fixed' distance; by a clamp at the top? The only thing that would affect fork action to me would be the angle at the dropout, whether that was allowing the springer to move as intended. The gap should be parallel (the same distance) all the way down the legs in my mind. Unless that bracket at the top is adjustable, not just up and down but in and out, and I'm not seeing it.

It would be a fixed distance at the top where the middle fork plate is. But with any of these Monark like springer forks, the distance at the bottom is controlled by the angle of the rockers. Typically if it is pulled too far up or too far down, it will make the springer fork legs closer at the bottom and the fork travel will be less efficient or in some cases slightly binding. There is always a sweet spot that gives the smoothest travel for the fork legs.
 
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kingfish254

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Google 'exhaust pipe cutter'. I've used a KD one for many years and they will cut pipe pretty cleanly.

Those look pretty nifty. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep those in mind. I am comfortable with a cutoff wheel though, so I think I'll just go that route. Especially with the thicker gauge tubing of these fork legs.
 
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