The Great (Haro) Escape

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Yeah man, Deore is the good stuff. Anything higher level got flimsy and finicky, weight losses came at a cost. As for the Indy, you can get coil springs to replace the elastomers, tuned to your weight, for about $45. Will bring their right back to life. Hardest part will be getting the old crumbly chunks out of there
I can get elastomers to replace the elastomers for about $10. 😀
 
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]@Indyjps[/USER] - The Judy's are in fine but totally collapsed condition. I remember reading your thread awhile back...
If you tear them down, let me inow the outside diameter, inside diameter of the elastomers. I'll look around amazon for a match. PUR material is available many places, amazon sells in qty that makes sense for us. It's more common - with a thru hole for Judy's than solid for earlier rock shox.

I really like the truing tool off the brake post, good stuff.
 
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Thanks Thanks
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Thanks for the complements guys!
Just wanted to show the 3 shim washers in use offseting the crank outboard.
Chainline is pretty extreme in 1st and 8th but nice in the middle gears.

If it turns out I spend most ride time in the lower gears, I could remove 1 shim at the expense of chain ring / chain stay clearance and chain line in top gears...
 
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kingfish254

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Chainline is pretty extreme in 1st and 8th but nice in the middle gears.

If it turns out I spend most ride time in the lower gears, I could remove 1 shim at the expense of chain ring / chain stay clearance and chain line in top gears...
In my recent commuter/town bike build requests that are using older 5/6/7/8 speed 1x drivetrains, it has proven to be more prudent to err slightly to the large cog side of the cluster. The chain is more apt to jump off of the chainring when the chainline is centered or erring to the small side of the cog cluster.
 
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In my recent commuter/town bike build requests that are using older 5/6/7/8 speed 1x drivetrains, it has proven to be more prudent to err slightly to the large cog side of the cluster. The chain is more apt to jump off of the chainring when the chainline is centered or erring to the small side of the cog cluster.
Thank you for the comment KC. My short test hop only got the first 3 speeds engaged, they worked fine. To clarify does the chainline look OK to you?
I suppose the best test would be putting some miles on it. Definately the forces seem to tend to keep the chain out of area between the big cog / spoke area.

Also I may have the chain kinda short, My method is to loop the chain around the big cog and crank and add 4 links.
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To compare Haro v2 gearing to two of my favorite riders:
Calculated the gear inches using 48 t oval front sprocket
1st gear 28 t = 45 gear inches
2nd gear 24 t = 52 gear inches
3rd gear 21 t = 59 gear inches
4th gear 18 t = 69 gear inches
5th gear 16 t = 78 gear inches
6th gear 14 t = 89 gear inches
7th gear 12 t = 104 gear inches
8th gear 11 t = 113 gear inches

My Arette GT - Hybrid 700c wheels.
Calculated the gear inches using biopace 52 t high front sprocket
1st gear 28 t = 51 gear inches
2nd gear 24 t = 60 gear inches
3rd gear 22 t = 65 gear inches
4th gear 20 t = 71 gear inches
5th gear 18 t = 79 gear inches
6th gear 16 t = 89 gear inches
7th gear 14 t = 102 gear inches

Specialized Crossroads - Hybrid 700c wheels
gear inches using stock 48 t high front sprocket
1st gear 28 t = 41 gear inches
2nd gear 24 t = 47 gear inches
3rd gear 21 t = 55 gear inches
4th gear 18 t = 62 gear inches
5th gear 16 t = 73 gear inches
6th gear 14 t = 87 gear inches
7th gear 12 t = 101 gear inches
8th gear 11 t = 119 gear inches
 
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Specialized Crossroads - Hybrid 700c wheels
gear inches using stock 48 t high front sprocket
1st gear 28 t = 41 gear inches
2nd gear 24 t = 47 gear inches
3rd gear 21 t = 55 gear inches
4th gear 18 t = 62 gear inches
5th gear 16 t = 73 gear inches
6th gear 14 t = 87 gear inches
7th gear 12 t = 101 gear inches
8th gear 11 t = 119 gear inches
Those are my ideal numbers on pavement. Perfection! Do you have another identical set?

Can't go wrong with red & shine


Wait, something is wrong with your figuring using 5th as a reference. Take a look. Gears 1-5 are close enough, but 6-8 are way off. You made the set wider. You can only reach 106 with an 11t. I tried comparing to see if I could indeed attain the same 6-8. Not possible. Reducing 11t to 10 and 14t to 13 is as close as possible.

Screensho1t.png

Screenshot2.png
 

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I would say your chain doesn't look 'too short'. With what looks like a 48t chain ring, it can't go inboard any further. That's why modern 1X set ups are a smaller chain ring with bigger cogs in the rear to achieve all the gears your want / need. But I get that you are riding this mostly on non-technical surfaces, so that's not quite as critical.

If you wanted it for more off-road riding, you could get a 9spd cassette that would be 11-40t, 9spd Shimano shifter for about $50. Your long cage LX derailleur would probably handle it, with a 32 or 34t chain ring in the front. And then inboard your chain ring as far as it will go to hit all the rear cogs properly and maintain a better chain line.
 
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@hamqqea, I calculated the gear inches using https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html

Gear chart using Gear Inches
For 26 X 2.125 / 54-559 / MTB tire with 48t chainring and 170 mm crank.
With Shimano 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28 8-speed "R/ah" Cassette.
Screenshot_2022-07-05_08-58-39.png
Screenshot_2022-07-05_09-00-20.png


I have been using the above calculator for a while, If my numbers are off for the Haro the they must be off for all my bikes.
 
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The values are accurate in your screen shot. You entered the wrong numbers earlier.
Screenshot3.png


Carry on.
 
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Chain length looks alright to me. If you're going to ride offroad on it, get a chain retention device to keep the chain on the chainring.

Dean Dean's Mountain Machine was not built on math and works just fine offroad within the parameters I've stated.

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Thanks everyone for your advice. Aiming to get 'er out for a test hop today. Sorry to get so "hung up" on math here. I just wanted to show comparisons to two of my favorite bikes. I chose the 48t chainring because the Specialized rides so well for me. Questions of frame and cockpit fit and the greater rolling resistance of the 26" tires will be left for test rides.

Interesting fact: How did "gear inches" come about?
Back in the High-Wheeler years from about 1870 to about 1887, the pedaling gear you had was determined by the diameter of the wheel, because the crank was attached to it, so one revolution of one meant one of the other, too. In that case, Wilt Chamberlain would win all the flat-road races, because his shorter competitors would be twirling too fast on a smaller wheel.

When chain-drive bikes came about with their cogs attached to the rear wheel, the English “gear-inch” concept came about, which allowed a rider to pick front and rear sprockets and be able to compare the distance-traveled per revolution to that of the high-wheelers.

https://www.rivbike.com/pages/gear-inch-calculator
 

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Got a short test ride in yesterday.
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Found some spiffy used grips that cleaned up nice. They are soft silicone and had quite a bit of dirt imbedded in the basket weeve pattern.
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I swapped out the Avid levers for full size models that came from the stash. I don't know much about 'em tho. They look new and have locking pins that enable parking brakes?
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There is a long paved grade close by that is good for speed (!) attempts.
The uphill was pretty good work out in 4th, but the trip back down was sweet in high gear!
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Bike rides very cushy, bobed slightly over railroad track crossing that shakes me pretty good on one of my no suspension hybrids. The 26x2.125 tires @ max 40 psi, suspension fork and even the thick gel grips add comfort. The seat was originally a placeholder, but has grown on me. It is quite comfortable and the white patch is reflective.

Gears shift fine, brakes work great. On the downhill in top gear, there was a wierd wiggle like car tires out of balance that made me back off some...
rear wheel has a little wobble maybe spokes moved around a bit, will have to check them. I had one bike a previous owner had wrapped a chunk of lead solder around a spoke for balance maybe have to try that.

There was a pretty strong crosswind at the time tho.
 
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On the downhill in top gear, there was a wierd wiggle like car tires out of balance that made me back off some...
rear wheel has a little wobble maybe spokes moved around a bit, will have to check them.
Other possibilities:

The tire case my be warped.

The wheelbase/geo may not enjoy higher speeds.

The tire tread pattern and road surface may not have been compatible.

The crosswind you mentioned could have also been amplifying any of the other factors.
 
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