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outrage

Joined
Jan 31, 2007
Messages
56
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Location
Nürnberg, Germany
long time no see - I'll be back with this piece of crap, a Peugeot UO-8 frame in a really weird violet color:
uv1.jpg

uv2.jpg


The story: I found this frame in the scrap metal container a couple of years ago. I just wanted the fork, but I had no tools with me, so I took the whole thing home. Figuring out that the steerer was too short for what I needed, I put the frame in the attic, where it was lying around since then.
Some jerk tried to... well I have no clue what some jerk tried, but obviously he wanted to remove the rear dropouts with a hacksaw, but he was not successful and he ended in bending the seatstays...
Life's a challenge - let's see what we can get out of this.
 
opps sorry, that frame is altered, you can't play. well lets see, Steve, can he play too? lol. dude, ya got your work cut out for ya.

Outlaw
 
Frame is now in its original shape again :p
uv3.jpg

uv4.jpg

Welding job not yet done - just tacked together. Bending the tubes was way more easy than I expected - the frame is made of lead tubes? Weight confirms that theory :D but I can weld it like steel...
 
I love those frames! I have had 2. both were stolen by the same scumbag.

White:
IMG_3420.jpg


Orange:
IMG_3578.jpg


you may run into a bit of a challenge with the BB. The french bikes had a different thread. where a normal BB is Left hand thread on the drive side, these are right hand. If I remember correctly, it is slightly different thread as well. On the white bike, I ran a regular right hand BB tap (you'll need to visit your favourite shop) through both sides, and then ran non-driveside (adjustable cups) on both sides. make the driveside one REALLY tight, or it will work it's way out. that's why they don't make them this way anymore. Hope that helps. These make a sweet bike.
 
Don't worry - this is not the first old French bike i'm workin on. I'm sure i'll find a French threaded BB.
BTW - welding is done:
uv5.jpg


And after a little bit of grinding and filing it looks like that:
uv7.jpg
 
I try to use as much parts as possible already lying around, and spend as less money as possible. So I took this nice pair of rims out of the basement:

uv9.jpg


And this is the rear hub - a nice German made PWB fixed gear hub I got a couple of months ago for 1 € on ebay...

uv10.jpg


Front hub - not yet decided. I have several interesting pieces in my "hub" cardboard box. I like the look of a high flange hub very much, but I think a silver low flange hub would look best with that rear hub.
Now I have to do some boring math - calculating the spoke length.
 
Pelissier 2000, a VERY nice French made front hub:
uv13.jpg


After giving the hubs a shine, and the rear hub got new cones and axle:
uv14.jpg


Been at the hardware store:
uv15.jpg


Not decided yet which parts of the frame to touch up, and which to repaint. I want to keep the original decals.
uv16.jpg
 
thats a cool lacing pattern! i like this build, you completly fixed a wrecked frame! ans personally, id sand everything except for the decals, mask them off and re paint. :)
 
I wanted to lace the rear wheel in the same 3l-3t-pattern as the front wheel:
uv18.jpg


But the spokes were just a couple of millimeters too long. Rats. What can I do? The solution is called "snowflake":
uv19.jpg


The rear wheel is already fine, the front wheel is not yet 100% true.
 
SWEET! :mrgreen: The twisted spokes are the bomb.I've seen it before and want to do it bad.Is there anywere I can find a how to?
 
ExtraBlaze said:
SWEET! :mrgreen: The twisted spokes are the bomb.I've seen it before and want to do it bad.Is there anywere I can find a how to?
Click to expand...
x2!! i wanna know!
 
I've done the first one, which is just the spokes of a 3x pattern, but 3 in a row leading, 3 in a row trailing, right? That one seemed to work well for me, although a little busy with the bends near the hub. I like the look of it though, the big voids of no spokes look good, almost reminiscent of a tri-spoke.

For that snowflake one, is there a certain calculation you do to get the right spoke length, or is it more of a trial and error process? seems like it might be a bit more resistant to taking a good truing. I once built a crow's foot pattern wheel (actually the rear on the orange bike I posted), and it was strange to true, but that involves 2 spoke lengths....
 
I read about snowflake wheels a while ago, finding out they were a fad sometimes back in the 90s. In fact they had no advantages, except for you want to build a wheel but the spokes you have are too long...
I found just a rather poor online guide in German, and so it was sort of "trial and error", but at the end it worked fine and the wheel wasn't so hard to true. The problem in the beginning (before I built the 3l-3t-wheel) was, that I tried several online spoke calculators, and most of them gave me as result 295 mm. I had a bunch of 296 mm spokes lying around, but they turned out to be about 5 mm too long :( so I thought: let's try snowflake - if it fails I can still look for new spokes.
You start lacing the wheel standard 3 cross loosely, and when all the spokes are at their place, you take a pair of spokes (the ones which cross at the outer crossing), unscrew the nipples, twist them twice so the spokes go again to the holes they were before.
I also found this tutorial online after some research: http://www.instructables.com/id/Twisted ... -flowers!/
 
Very cool.Thanks for the link and tips.I have to try it.Can't wait to see yor wheels mounted. :mrgreen:
 
outrage said:
You start lacing the wheel standard 3 cross loosely, and when all the spokes are at their place, you take a pair of spokes (the ones which cross at the outer crossing), unscrew the nipples, twist them twice so the spokes go again to the holes they were before.
Click to expand...


Good to know. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the bike.
 

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