UNION frame salvage: Wooden bike build

[BartRidesEternal]

Hi guys,

I know I have been rambling about a Recumbent bike on another topic, but I'm getting more and more interested in wood working.
Reading some books now how old WW1 planes were built. Wood type, grain and how it is sawn etcetera. Really interesting stuff!

For quite some years there is a cut-in-half "Union" frame on my attic.
Some design features give away that is pretty old, but I don't know how old exactly.

There were a few times that I wanted to throw this frame with the garbage.

But my interest for wood work grows on me, and maybe on this bike aswell.

My ideas: (see inspiration pictures below)
No worries, I will not plant a tree in the bottom bracket hole, and fertilize by ........ in the seat tube... I do not have that patience
OK, sorry for that.

Wooden frame repair: Down tube, toptube and partially the headtube. Maybe I'll build a wooden seat stay too.
Use the original bottom bracket and cranks.
No welding, only filled brazing or working with lugs: Were going oldschool!
Lots of filing by hand.

I have some neat ideas go give it that WW1 plane structural vibe: Wood, metal and cables. I love that.

Overall: A wood working learning project!

FRAME NUMBER = 405020. Made by UNION.

My inspiration bike:
I love this machine, the details, hand labor, just beautiful!

Thanks for reading/following etcetera!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

A bit of work is done:

Lots of recycling and using stuff around the house if it fits my look and quality goals:

So the bottom bracket "down tube" opening in this frame is way to short to just put a wooden stake in there... its not a vampire!

First, I needed some steel! I found a CrMo tube part (35mm x 1,5mm) from my previous build.
So I grabbed the file and filed the bottom bracket radiusses in there. I also milled the diameter and now it took some hard hits to press it on the bare bottom bracket piece. This will be filled brazed eventually:

I removed the bottom bracket bearing: Man this old stuff is great quality!

And I found some 'relatively light' hard stiff wood:

Last picture: What wood could this be?
Just a guess: Mahogany?

 

[Captain Awesome]

Hi guys,

I know I have been rambling about a Recumbent bike on another topic, but I'm getting more and more interested in wood working.
Reading some books now how old WW1 planes were built. Wood type, grain and how it is sawn etcetera. Really interesting stuff!

For quite some years there is a cut-in-half "Union" frame on my attic.
Some design features give away that is pretty old, but I don't know how old exactly.

There were a few times that I wanted to throw this frame with the garbage.

But my interest for wood work grows on me, and maybe on this bike aswell.

My ideas: (see inspiration pictures below)
No worries, I will not plant a tree in the bottom bracket hole, and fertilize by ........ in the seat tube... I do not have that patience
OK, sorry for that.

Wooden frame repair: Down tube, toptube and partially the headtube. Maybe I'll build a wooden seat stay too.
Use the original bottom bracket and cranks.
No welding, only filled brazing or working with lugs: Were going oldschool!
Lots of filing by hand.

I have some neat ideas go give it that WW1 plane structural vibe: Wood, metal and cables. I love that.

Overall: A wood working learning project!

FRAME NUMBER = 405020. Made by UNION.

My inspiration bike:
I love this machine, the details, hand labor, just beautiful!

Thanks for reading/following etcetera!

That Old Hickory is absolutely gorgeous

 

[BartRidesEternal]

So after lots of reading and watching "how to" videos on laminating, I'll share my notes and drawings with you. So if I make mistakes, you won't have to!

I found out what that wood type is in the previous post: its Merbau wood. But I am not going to use that.

I am using pine and meranti wood. I already ordered the materials.

My thought explanation on my notes and drawings:
Often it makes sense to place high-modulus/high-strength wooden plies, such as ash or mahogany, furthest from the neutral axis (top and bottom), and lighter, weaker materials such as cedar or spruce in the center. This method puts the stronger, heavier materials where the loads are the greatest and lighter materials where the loads are less, much like building an I-beam. It offers greater strength with less weight.
This is what I am going to do.

Is am using 4mm strips that I will laminate. Glue: Titebond 3. The seat stay and probably the fork is the only one that will get a bending radius or two.

Fork ideas (not set yet).

Layer orientation and the stacking.

Pictures from measuring:

Working order:
Measure 10x or so, then cut the strips.
Use screws to hold the strips in place.
Mill/turn the strips to fit in the frame tubes.
Prepare the headtube (CroMo steel).
Prepare the lamination (the frame included).
Laminate.
File, shave and sand!

If you have questions, let me know. I am not an expert (yet)

 

[Captain Awesome]

You've got a subscriber!

 

[Swampthing]

Yep
This is cool. Definitely following the progress.
back in the old days I worked on wooden boats and built some bows so this is definitely something that caught my attention.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Thanks @Captain Awesome ! Appreciate it.

@Swampthing That sounds as an awesome way to spend your time, was it your job? What type of wood did you use?

Rough update:

There was a 'double top tube' bicycle that I fixed and refurbished. I tried to sell it but nobody wants a bike on a 'craigslist' like website from a guy where they can't estimate the quality. This bike had all new bearing and tires, and all mechanical connections were loosened and greased so technically new. Only the looks were a bit ratty (I like that!).
So I spent 60 bucks on tires and bearings, but the highest offer I got was 20 bucks
Long story short:
I disassembled the bike, sold the parts separate for about 50 bucks and decided to scavenge the frame for projects.
For this project I cut the headtube and 'cleaned it'.
I also used the fork shaft. I cut the fork arms and removed fork base.
In hindsight it was more work than using a new clean piece of steel..... but this was free and fun.

And the wood strips came in!
Now working on measurements and strategies on making it all work.

Some things I am asking myself:

• How to get a good 'one piece' glueing connection and get the rounded edges to drive into the UNION frame?
• Maybe first glue the top tube and the lower tube, mill them in a lathe and drive them into the UNION frame. Then finish the last "headtube" connections. But how to get the 'rounded' headtube connection in? And straight?
• Make the lower UNION frame CroMo tube separable, drive the whole wooden setup in and clamp it down. Allignment is extra important then.

I do not want to end up with a weak and badly aligned frame

OK, picture time:

 

[Swampthing]

Most were “self” bows from Osage orange.
I did cut some of my Osage into boards and laminated them with bamboo or ash.
The canoes were mostly white cedar. With hardwood gunnels and decks.
the bows were a hobby
I did the boat work as part of working my way through college.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Most were “self” bows from Osage orange.
I did cut some of my Osage into boards and laminated them with bamboo or ash.
The canoes were mostly white cedar. With hardwood gunnels and decks.
the bows were a hobby
I did the boat work as part of working my way through college.

Again: seem really nice to be able to earn some money with oldschool woodworking!

Sorry for the lack of updates (and other projects that started). Sometimes it is easier to pick up projects that are farmiliar. This is a project that requires more planning and thinking.

I did add parts to the pile that are related to or are from the brand "UNION".

Bought an old stem with a really cool forged wingnut and a carbide lamp that needs some fixing.
The lamp is very old and worn, the glass is mint but the hinges and the clip-on is quite worn.
Maybe I can solder some newly made hinges and overlapping material to make it "less worn".

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Hey guys, no big update, but some really cool stuff!

I got me a 1952 Torpedo coasterbrake hub. In very nice condition!
The rear sprocket has thread instead of that circular spring to hold it in place.
Not 100% sure if I will use it for this build. This bike will get that "pre 1900's" look.
But I will add it to the parts pile for now.

And I got a lamp for the bike. It is probably very old. It is not a carbide lamp, but a lamp that holds a candle! Perfect for Christmas
When the candle is burnt to the bottom, you can push it upwards with your finger (there is a sort of valve underneath).

For the rest of the build: there is still a lot of planning going on. I will be laminating fenders first for another build.

The candle is in there still.

Picture above: Not my lamp, but you get an idea.