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kingfish254

CHECK OUT MY SALE THREAD FOR COOL STUFF!
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I ride with every type of cyclist regardless of class from rodies, bmxers, MTBikers, old, young, male, female... you name it. Riders want my company in some form, whether it be for a workout, knowledge or a challenge. Respect is often mutual, even at times times when there is disagreement.

We use our bikes to gauge our abilities in some instances to discover possibilities. When I ride alone, and there are time I want to, I have less references to compare with. My choices of bicycle and riding style is what stands out among others
Elite riders get a kick out of my bikes while we're exceeding 25mph... and so am I. They typically do not mind my presence.
jLQeUN.jpg

I influence, affect and alter peoples attitude, observation and awareness through cycling. Words, imaginary even videos on a forum aren't enough to express the experience. There are specif reasons other than attention why I rely on unconventional vintage style bicycles to join groups of modern bikes. Unnecessary to explain further here being that we don't ride together and these build offs are based mainly on artistic merit.

Well put!
That is one killer ride too!
 
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I broke my finger the other day
. . . on the other hand, I'm okay.


on a separate, It seems the admins figured out how to make my posts indestructible... wonder why:rofl:
 

Ulu

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Thanks hamppea.
The seats I bought are about 19.5”x 5.25”

They both appear to have the same pan and brackets, but one is stamped with the Low Rider brand name and logo while the other one is blank on the bottom.

I found this online but it is only 2” longer and no wider or deeper.

8D477DDE-EDEE-4016-8529-8AE49760F9B7.jpeg
 
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Hey @Ulu, I failed to mention the seats posted are from the 70's-80's. I know of no current seats made of similar quality. Haven't reviewed the Lowrider brand seats or alike. I only go for vintage stuff. Unfortunately every seller thinks their seats are worth a fortune. Some are, some aren't.

People are mostly interested in pictures of bikes from side views.
My favorite view of this project.
AM-JKLVUiCe3ptCBQRXYfPB5TJz7X8VHbfHG-6QktA_0kI9S3wj-doBYUrh8tUBeLRngdP3iO3oRnJYfK8TkvYv-MPAH6AxaJy8KH4qitn5Gp6WwoVAocFU9sXaBJMJsbIMuKFWvqNcRs2XdIo4D0G40xMye=w598-h897-no

Generally I go for a fancy fork. Flipped rattraps from the rider's view looks awesome along with other suspension types. A tipple tree would've been great here but I don't have one that fits. The Sears MX still looks plenty nice and functional though. The large square fork crown and long fat legs work splendidly with the rest. Standard straight 20'' BMX forks aren't nearly as impressive. Don't have many cool MX parts to play with.



Been seeing DIY rattle can paint mixers going around. Here's my in-depth tutorial.

AM-JKLW63GSFHaoapjXw5JD8UylYgkRKRrP-wuDRgomWstb8azXBdk1OKKCujwZIWtmhDTtdb17zqzkVuzQG4FeTtci8eqE9sNuOMRqD2Sauc5Ao70SOJb4Wv-vfT66A872Py_xPpddw_UucDDJXPhIjdf9a=w1582-h889-no
Easy enough with broken fingers
 

Ulu

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Hey @Ulu, I failed to mention the seats posted are from the 70's-80's. I know of no current seats made of similar quality. Haven't reviewed the Lowrider brand seats or alike. I only go for vintage stuff.

I remember working on that vintage stuff, and it though it was better than today’s, it was still mass production stuff, and I wasn’t that impressed with the construction.

Still it was better than the Lowrider brand seats.

By the way, only one of my seats has the Lowrider logo stamped in the pan, also they are both identical pans and you could tell they were pressed on the same dies.
 
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Holy guacamole. I have been absent for several weeks. Now I come back to this fascinating project. I have a couple of crusty Apollos myself, a black one that is largely original except for some missing paint and added ferric oxide, and a brown one that as far as I know, only the fork and seatpost are original to the frame. This is a VERY cool frame to start with... brazed-on cable guides? Euro bottom bracket? Never seen an Apollo like that. Definitely looking forward to seeing where it goes.

I wonder if the head tube joints are stronger than a "regular" Apollo... from what I understand, that's a common failure point.
 
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I remember working on that vintage stuff, and it though it was better than today’s, it was still mass production stuff, and I wasn’t that impressed with the construction.

Still it was better than the Lowrider brand seats.

By the way, only one of my seats has the Lowrider logo stamped in the pan, also they are both identical pans and you could tell they were pressed on the same dies.
Lower performance components today are made to be cost effective. I have a Micargi banana. It's flimsy. The old Mesinger pans are heavy hardened steel, including the mounts. The pans aren't as wide and tend to be less comfortable than the Troxel style I posted. Homemade is cool too.


Holy guacamole. I have been absent for several weeks. Now I come back to this fascinating project. I have a couple of crusty Apollos myself, a black one that is largely original except for some missing paint and added ferric oxide, and a brown one that as far as I know, only the fork and seatpost are original to the frame. This is a VERY cool frame to start with... brazed-on cable guides? Euro bottom bracket? Never seen an Apollo like that. Definitely looking forward to seeing where it goes.

I wonder if the head tube joints are stronger than a "regular" Apollo... from what I understand, that's a common failure point.
Welcome back,
It appears both suffer from the same inherent issues. I could see how tubing can be joined much better. That would of course drive up cost. The Apollo was relatively inexpressive. Saw them everywhere back in the day.
Measurements would be appreciated if you have time to provide them. I don't have a Ross. I'm wondering how close they really are.
Top tube = 19''
Seat tube = 16-1/2'' (center of BB to top)
Head tube = 6-1/4'' (no cups)
chainstay = 15''
Diagonal boxed tubing stay = 32-1/2'' X 1-1/2'' wide.
Where measurements were taken. I use tube centers and center of the dropout slot roughly where the axle would be.
AM-JKLXVyyhzFfcCB8kQedcBQcj3Z9cGnBz35Tmc3BXLFSbF3aBffE6dcUjT-k_rdtLHg5ZuuUD--gZmpEeHhSRN43SPAlJ6BsaUUFltAOkvzh0mVzpb17yaMNZZy1m0nroSB9GR18RVEarakCMSuN0raJgQ=w1600-h817-no


Thanks
 

Ulu

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I bought this same seat today at the Lowrider bicycle shop over in Fresno. I also got it for $39.95.

It is 2 inches longer than mine.
539C7DD6-9A36-4953-BCC1-C0CB6016F8F8.jpeg

It actually looks a little better than the one in the picture, but it still suboptimal.
 

Ulu

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I am looking at those Troxel seats thinking that I saw them on more than one brand of bicycle.

It was Not just an aftermarket seat was it?

It seem to me like it was used by OEMs in different styles.

I know I’m dragging us off topic, but would you post photographs of the underside details on a Troxel?
 
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It appears both suffer from the same inherent issues. I could see how tubing can be joined much better. That would of course drive up cost. The Apollo was relatively inexpressive. Saw them everywhere back in the day.
Measurements would be appreciated if you have time to provide them. I don't have a Ross. I'm wondering how close they really are.
Top tube = 19''
Seat tube = 16-1/2'' (center of BB to top)
Head tube = 6-1/4'' (no cups)
chainstay = 15''
Diagonal boxed tubing stay = 32-1/2'' X 1-1/2'' wide.
Where measurements were taken. I use tube centers and center of the dropout slot roughly where the axle would be.
AM-JKLXVyyhzFfcCB8kQedcBQcj3Z9cGnBz35Tmc3BXLFSbF3aBffE6dcUjT-k_rdtLHg5ZuuUD--gZmpEeHhSRN43SPAlJ6BsaUUFltAOkvzh0mVzpb17yaMNZZy1m0nroSB9GR18RVEarakCMSuN0raJgQ=w1600-h817-no


Thanks
Ok, so here's what I have. The measurements aren't as precise as I'd like, as the bikes are kinda buried in the basement, but the numbers are interesting nonetheless. Starting with the black '73 5-speed:

Top tube = 17.25''
Seat tube = 15'' (center of BB to top)
Head tube = 6'' (no cups)
chainstay = 16''
Diagonal boxed tubing stay = 32'' X 1-1/2'' wide.
20190803_193048.jpg


Moving on to the brown '76:

Top tube = 17.25''
Seat tube = 15.25'' (center of BB to top)
Head tube = 5.75'' (no cups)
chainstay = 15.5''
Diagonal boxed tubing stay = 31.5'' X 1-1/2'' wide.
IMG_2538.JPG


So not only are they different from yours, they are also different from one another. Some other differences I've noticed:
  • Yours has welded-on chain guard tabs. (Later Ross models may have this, I know I have seen some with a traditional chain guard instead of a ring.)
  • Yours has a support welded between the chainstays between the BB and the wheel, the Ross does not (see photos below).
  • The square plates that connect the top tubes and the rectangular tubes to the seat tube are configured and positioned differently (see photos below).
  • Rear dropouts are noticeably different design (see photos below).
  • Ross has a separate chrome seat post clamp, yours appears to be welded to the seat tube.
20190805_184843.jpg

20190805_184833.jpg


Also, and this is just eyeballing it, but I think the "seatstays" on your frame are longer/come up higher before they bend forward to become the extensions of the top tubes, if that makes sense. To put it another way, looking at the first picture you put in this thread, it looks like I could lay a piece of 2x4 on the tops of the tubes under the seat, with the end touching the seat post clamp, and it would extend out over the top of the rear wheel without touching it. On mine, that same 2x4 would touch the top of the rear tire or be REALLY close (look at the pic of the brown bike above). Again, that's just a guess from pictures and could be distorted by angles, tire sizes, or any number of other factors.
 
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Well holy heck. Would you look at this.

edit: ok wait, never mind. That's the "other one" the seller had that you referred to earlier in this thread.
 
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Thank you VERY much for all the thorough measurements /observations @ParkRNDL !
Sweet rides btw:cool2:

As I suspected. The clone is longer and taller overall by a small margin. The Ross chainstay is longer and wider spaced behind the BB. I have to deflate a 2'' tire when mounting the wheel. Probably tested with narrow 1.75'' tires. There's plenty of space for a 2.4'' tire once in. The Ross stays should be longer than the clone. The clone BB is essentially set back a bit more, effectively providing more length up front. That kind of shows in photos. The Ross crank appears closer to the middle of the wheels.
You find 16' and 15.5'' at the chainstay. Mine is just 15''. At 15.5'' my axle would reach the very back of the dropout slot.
The Ross square tubing behind the seat is partially flattened, whereas the width of the clone remains 9/16'' all the way back.
The clone gussets joining the rails and seat tube together are flat without form.
One of the biggest distinctions is the twin tube diameters. The Ross is 5/8'', clone is smaller @ 9/16''. I can tell that much from photos. The dropouts are entirely different. Ross wins the coolness factor there.

Additional measurements:
Seat stay to bend from center seat tube top = 10''
AM-JKLXXxn5Bxu31KnHQwFsr6ESfvHnULO8sZRYVCOvItO9tAslp0OXNW_PLoFDEDOGBjUDXwZoEhI4MRPZtlrm-JKQ_AmkT4gYt5LoQP4dyHHEauathTRJmJH4T0rpjD7MwHdq5qrCELH5UCiSCzkSDatrQ=w1414-h919-no


Seat stay drop vertically to the axle where the upper part would intersect = 11''
AM-JKLWwtSeVCFYUnxw8kZ4-Y2ndMkKPK8Lr2XA_i4ug_wZS7gTaNWuvgtjTcY6CKXGrVscdLjLwSukZkWHPoyIWwTK_SmbtthsaHpdQcY5JNzQTnK1S51eCL0idVQ40FjSSY-c8lvCuISBbEqaYZCC6Rf0h=w803-h919-no


BB spindle to center box tube = 6-1/4''
AM-JKLVWPaiiYncGqKN6N0sDqzPwYMPgA3wTZ20rKsT-bpzQgXUd-yn4sH-1LBOeEbgHR6ha4ysTFMDrRQovV4JowkJ5YiFx_uCAa2pDGtOdNalqiKyqAPtuwQTswoISQTOHgoj-i7GN3_fz7Bc96WrRZjXi=w690-h919-no


Dropout inner joints
AM-JKLWRnEg-_bLJOVD-vsZHNtC8iZUDh02uU9NQ_QHamgvqwPzDDaASdCrF81Y3w7hZnnHyoUxkyqoYqsvMjvn4AhGTsaKRjibWr9yix7TfEvd64APYiGUaKIibIK5DbVzHZqRutz4IO0DpgT5mVE5Sj0ef=w723-h919-no


The joints are brazed rather well. The failure is where the tubing is pressed to form around the head tube. Ideally, tubes should be mitered to fit the head tube. I could see tearing a tubing at the crease where it's flattened, especially the the lower box tube. It literally comes to point where it joins the head tube. I don't see it being able to separate from the head tube though.

I would've liked to have both. The blue one appears to be in better condition.
 
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