What fork/shocks to look for for a 49' DX Klunker project and other thoughts for a newb

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I used an Odyssey Posi Stop seat post clamp to anchor the drum on my klunker. My fork is 25.4 O.D. so this clamp might not work for you but maybe give you an idea to go parts hunting with. Maybe look at 32mm brake lever perches and find one that can be modified to work similar.

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A good idea and I like it. But, for me on the trail you need a tool and a part to loose if you need to fix a flat with your idea so that would be a second choice over welding or fabrication of a clamp that has a slot that the brake arm just drops out of. I learned all this the hard way.
 
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Diff subject... A while back I posted that Im using a Profile Bottom Bracket and crankset. I have some issues but my main problem is with chain line.. I'm having a hard time getting the sprocket as close to the BB shell as possible. If you look at a stock Schwinn chain ring they are "bowled in" towards the bike putting the chain line closer to the seat post. I'm using a Bendix 2 speed auto and Its just not possible to move the rear sprocket out with spacers.
My resolution thus far is to not use the BB cone spacer on the drive side and use a 3mm axle spacer instead but now the bearing is exposed. I must say that the bike totally rips and the Bendix kickback with the 33t sprocket gear ratio is perfect for what I want to do which is still be able to climb hills and trails.
Just wondering if any of you have had these issue when converting the BB on these old Schwinn to a modern 3 piece??
 

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I'm running the same sprocket on my deliveri with 3 piece cranks. I'll check it out this weekend and see if I did anything out of the ordinary...I don't think I did, but it was assembled a few years ago.
 
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Diff subject... A while back I posted that Im using a Profile Bottom Bracket and crankset. I have some issues but my main problem is with chain line.. I'm having a hard time getting the sprocket as close to the BB shell as possible. If you look at a stock Schwinn chain ring they are "bowled in" towards the bike putting the chain line closer to the seat post. I'm using a Bendix 2 speed auto and Its just not possible to move the rear sprocket out with spacers.
My resolution thus far is to not use the BB cone spacer on the drive side and use a 3mm axle spacer instead but now the bearing is exposed. I must say that the bike totally rips and the Bendix kickback with the 33t sprocket gear ratio is perfect for what I want to do which is still be able to climb hills and trails.
Just wondering if any of you have had these issue when converting the BB on these old Schwinn to a modern 3 piece??
No one realizes how hard a klunker conversion is. There is always an out of the box solution, part of the frustrating fun. One more thought. I got a lot of pinch flats while riding single track on my klunkers. No shocks to help. I put Stans sealant in the tubes and that didn’t work. I went with max recommended pressure for the tires and that worked. The problem is worse with tires under 2.125. I guess tubeless rims or conversion would work? No low pressure like on a real mountain bike. I’ve never used a bb on a klunker like your using. You may be in uncharted single speed territory. I have used square taper bb spindles because they come in a variety of offsets that will give you the correct chain line. Can you get the type of bb spindle your using with different offsets? If you can the easiest solution is to find a good bike shop and have them measure it for correct spindle offset. The net also shows you how to do this and there are folks on this forum who have this down.
 
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Diff subject... A while back I posted that Im using a Profile Bottom Bracket and crankset. I have some issues but my main problem is with chain line.. I'm having a hard time getting the sprocket as close to the BB shell as possible. If you look at a stock Schwinn chain ring they are "bowled in" towards the bike putting the chain line closer to the seat post. I'm using a Bendix 2 speed auto and Its just not possible to move the rear sprocket out with spacers.
My resolution thus far is to not use the BB cone spacer on the drive side and use a 3mm axle spacer instead but now the bearing is exposed. I must say that the bike totally rips and the Bendix kickback with the 33t sprocket gear ratio is perfect for what I want to do which is still be able to climb hills and trails.
Just wondering if any of you have had these issue when converting the BB on these old Schwinn to a modern 3 piece??
Have you investigated using a spider? You might be able use the aluminum washer like shims from an old school double crank to move the chainring closer to the seat tube.
54E5FA0B-DC50-4259-974C-02422B99F4C3.jpeg
 
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I now have the bike together with a new set of cranks the rep sent me. They were really hard to get on but its the first time Ive had everything assembled tight with parts that work and aren't flawed. The chain line is just good enough to not cause problems. Ive been riding the bike around the 'hood but not on any trails yet, ( too cold or muddy !) but it is a blast to ride !!! Corners great, and hill climbing is no problem.
The front hub brake works, and if I were to do it a again Id go with rim brakes. It looks really cool but does not stop as good as I though it would. No biggie, its a learning process !
 
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The SA brake needs to be adjusted until it just barely ticks from drag a little. The drum shoes and cable work in and then you can adjust it until there are no high spots or drag. That’s what I did anyway. It will work a little better after awhile, but still very weak. I guess you didn’t believe my earlier post when I told you they were weak. Be careful tightening the axle nuts, these axles strip easily, unless they made improvements in the last 8 years. I think vintage reproduction motorcycle levers might improve your braking, but you need to make shims for the bicycle cables to fit on these levers. Motorcycle cables and barrel stops are much bigger than those on bicycle cables. Perhaps try long and short pull bicycle levers to see if one works better. I don’t recall which levers your supposed to use with it. I think short pull have more leverage. Usually if something pulls twice as far you end out with half the mechanical advantage and have to squeeze the brake lever twice as hard for the same leverage. I’m probably wrong, been a long time since high school physics. A drum does allow you to ride corners faster and helps keep the coaster temp down. Don’t touch your coaster after a big downhill ride, you could cook hot dogs on it. How about some pictures?
 
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