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What fork/shocks to look for for a 49' DX Klunker project and other thoughts for a newb
- Thread starter spleeft
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When I have an RB-2 with less than perfect paint, I just peel the rest of the red and leave it polished.
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Yellow.
Update,
Gathering parts. It seems I'm enough of a newb to just buy new parts mainly to see what they look like and hold them in my hands for the first time. I'm ending up with parts that will not be used on this bike but possibly on future builds. I dont really have a large "parts bin" so no biggie and I'm learning a lot about the BMX world and after market bike stuff.
Installation of a Tange headset and SE forks done. I wanted to use a set of sidewinder forks but the SA drum brake will not fit. I think Im gonna peel the "Landing Gear" stickers off ( and use them somewhere else like my tool box )...a little too much for my tastes..... if it hepls, I removed all the labels off of my $1K Fox 36 FLOAT Performance Elite Grip 2 29 2021 shocks on my mountain bike too !
Question-
I have to spread the chain stays a tiny bit to fit the Bendix YB , not a big deal but is it possible to heat them up and spread them permanently for easier install/adjustment purposes? For now I'll just deal with it.
Wheel builds coming soon !!!!
Gathering parts. It seems I'm enough of a newb to just buy new parts mainly to see what they look like and hold them in my hands for the first time. I'm ending up with parts that will not be used on this bike but possibly on future builds. I dont really have a large "parts bin" so no biggie and I'm learning a lot about the BMX world and after market bike stuff.
Installation of a Tange headset and SE forks done. I wanted to use a set of sidewinder forks but the SA drum brake will not fit. I think Im gonna peel the "Landing Gear" stickers off ( and use them somewhere else like my tool box )...a little too much for my tastes..... if it hepls, I removed all the labels off of my $1K Fox 36 FLOAT Performance Elite Grip 2 29 2021 shocks on my mountain bike too !
Question-
I have to spread the chain stays a tiny bit to fit the Bendix YB , not a big deal but is it possible to heat them up and spread them permanently for easier install/adjustment purposes? For now I'll just deal with it.
Wheel builds coming soon !!!!
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Good choices, you won't be let down. Not going to comment on sticker removal...
You shouldn't need heat to spread the stays. Here's a thread explaining cold setting, they're narrowing the stays, but the principle is the same.
https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threa...ce-between-rear-dropouts.114609/#post-1192995Here's the master's course from Professor Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.htmlAs a new builder, you should probably spend some time with Sheldon. You can learn almost everything from that site.
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Cold spreading is easy with mild steel, difficult with high quality tubing. It can easily be brought back to the original specs so nothingg is ruined. Once spread, the drops will no longer be parallel. You can make a homemade tool to bring them back to parallel. I used an old wheel axle and axle nuts. The axle is grasped with vice grips and the drops realigned. I would also recommend making a simple frame alignment tool from wood. I made mine from square tubing welded up. Check the frame before spreading and after. Here are my homemade tools.
Frame alignment tool. The indicator at the drop is an old piece of steel attached with a bolt and two nuts so it can be locked in place and then put on the other side. The pointer should have no gaps.
After spreading, the drops aren’t parallel as indicated by the bolt heads not being parallel.
After bending back the drops by putting force on the far ends of the axles, away from the frame.
Frame alignment tool. The indicator at the drop is an old piece of steel attached with a bolt and two nuts so it can be locked in place and then put on the other side. The pointer should have no gaps.
After spreading, the drops aren’t parallel as indicated by the bolt heads not being parallel.
After bending back the drops by putting force on the far ends of the axles, away from the frame.
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The string method is ok, but I find it difficult to accurately measure both sides and never seem to get the same measurement. I always wonder if the frame is ok. I would recommed making one from old or used straight wood. You could use vice grips to hold the two pieces of wood together and another vice grip to hold an old hack saw blade indicator in place. It won’t take much longer to make. If you don’t have wood then string. It has to be pretty far off for string to work. Most people just spread the drops without aligning the drops or even doing a string test. But, when you finish and ride, if the bike doesn’t track then you won’t know if it’s an off center wheel, frame, drops or fork problem.
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I did the cold forging as described and i got it almost perfect..not really that difficult. I am going to align the drop out to parallel when I can get to the hardware store. Thanks for the encouragement!
In other news, spokes arrived and front wheel complete.
In other news, spokes arrived and front wheel complete.
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It looks like your frame has forward facing drops. I have a klunker with the same frame except it’s pre war and has the track style fork ends with the set screws. It’s got an SA front brake, similar fork and a coaster brake, so very similar to yours. I’ve never been able to keep the rear wheel straight with forward facing drops, it always twists in the frame from braking halfway through a ride and rubs on the frame. Does anyone have a solution to this problem? Another problem is that the head sets come loose and need adjusting half way through a ride, even BMX ones. So far the best I have found for a reasonable price is the Origin 8 sealed bearing aluminum headset. It’s 30.2 cups so I don’t know it this fits your Schwinn. They are around $40. I put one on a road bike and never had a problem so I tried one on a klunker. I haven’t ridden the klunker a lot so I can’t you about longevity but it has not come loose. This is what it looks like on my klunker.
Fork style drops
Fork style drops
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Thanks for that insight, US56
Id love to get my hands on a prewar frame that isn't being overcharged for but until then I'll be using this one as a pathfinder and will def put it to the test ! Working nights shifts next few days so I wont get much done on this bike build until the weekend.
Just wondering , since you seem to be someone who puts their builds to the test, have you ever broken one of these old frames?
Id love to get my hands on a prewar frame that isn't being overcharged for but until then I'll be using this one as a pathfinder and will def put it to the test ! Working nights shifts next few days so I wont get much done on this bike build until the weekend.
Just wondering , since you seem to be someone who puts their builds to the test, have you ever broken one of these old frames?
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Sturmey Archer makes boring steel clamps, might make something big enough for that fat fork.
I can't remember who made them, but the cruiser guys over at the bmxmuseum were using cool anodized aluminum block clamps
I can't remember who made them, but the cruiser guys over at the bmxmuseum were using cool anodized aluminum block clamps
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Looks like this hutch uses a Dia Compe hinged seatpost clamp to do it. Not the one I was thinking of, but pretty cool!
UPDATE-
I shined the frame up a little, got the wheel set done , and assemble partially to get a feel. I installed the PROFILE AMERICAN "HOP UP" BOTTOM BRACKET with no problems but I am having trouble with the crank arms and sprocket. I started a thread in the Help section here Crank Help
I shined the frame up a little, got the wheel set done , and assemble partially to get a feel. I installed the PROFILE AMERICAN "HOP UP" BOTTOM BRACKET with no problems but I am having trouble with the crank arms and sprocket. I started a thread in the Help section here Crank Help
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
The old paint looks SIIIICKK!!! Nothing like original darts
