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Thanks, I'll take the first bike in the flyer!


That's my crusty Collegiate before I found a head badge!!:giggle::giggle: One of my favorite riders & silky smooth.....
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@Shrunken_Head_Pedaler
Use a ruler to measure the following in mm. If you have a vernier caliper great, if not a good ruler will suffice.
Use thick paper such as a mail flyer for cutting out around the axles where you can't stretch across a ruler easily and then measure the distance between the paper for the flange diameter listed below.

Find the spoke length of anyone of the spokes you removed.
How to
View attachment 202279

Find the spoke flange diameter of the original hub. The diameter is measured center of the spoke holes, not the outside of the flange.
How to
View attachment 202280

Lastly, find the flange width of the original hub. The measurement points are taken center of both flanges which is around several mm thick.
How to.
View attachment 202281

I know the wheel is a low profile ISO: 559 hoop, and I already have all the Shimano 3 speed hub data.

I can calculate the rim's ERD with the measurement you provide and tell you if the spokes can be reused without re-threading. You'll need to know this info for spoke calc anyway. You're not making a offset wheel which makes calculating easier.

Gluck
Ok @hamqqea here are the dimensions I was able to pull. I did add my Shimano dimensions, as I wondered if we varied much. I appreciate your help!
Wheel info

Wheel Master

Length of spoke = 10.25 inches = 260.35 mm

Spoke Flange dia. = 1.75 inches = 44.45 mm

Flange width = 2.1 inches = 53.34 mm

Image.jpeg




Shimano Hub

Spoke flange = 2.325 = 59.055 mm

Flange width = 2.0 = 50.8 mm
 
That's my crusty Collegiate before I found a head badge!!:giggle::giggle: One of my favorite riders & silky smooth.....View attachment 202868View attachment 202870View attachment 202869View attachment 202872View attachment 202871View attachment 202867
Sweet ride man. That Columbia chainguard suits it too. A Murray built curved seat mast bike is on my bucket list. I am 6'2 and interested to know how they are in terms of fit compared to a standard Schwinn canti cruiser. They look on the small side.
 
Ok @hamqqea here are the dimensions I was able to pull. I did add my Shimano dimensions, as I wondered if we varied much. I appreciate your help!
Wheel info

Wheel Master

Length of spoke = 10.25 inches = 260.35 mm

Spoke Flange dia. = 1.75 inches = 44.45 mm

Flange width = 2.1 inches = 53.34 mm

View attachment 203047



Shimano Hub

Spoke flange = 2.325 = 59.055 mm

Flange width = 2.0 = 50.8 mm
According to your values which I pretty much agree with(3sp hub flange-D closer to 57mm).
@3 cross spokes are ≈ 3mm long. @4 cross ≈ 7mm short.

My suggestion considering the nature and use of the wheel is lace it the same 3 cross driving the nipples past the spoke threads. There's about a cm of threads per spoke. You'll have to trim the spoke ends past the nipple heads.
 
Good luck with the wheel building.
For some bizarre reason after looking over all of this wheel talk, a wagon wheel of cheese popped in my 70s childhood mind and now I'm hankerin for a hunka cheese.

 
Another thing the Dutch are "wheelie" crazy about is cheese.View attachment 203090
Believe it or not, the American term "Yankee" might have originally been a slur against Dutchmen, because Jan (pronounced Yan) likes cheese. Yan cheese. Yankees.
I already thought I smelled cheese on this forum. Reporting for dury sir!
Where is @Frankie plekhand ?

Off topic: Caught up with this build, love that tank work! Have fun building your wheel + looking forward to the finished bike
 
You're good to go with the existing spoke length;) The Wheel Master ERD = 545. I entered a 3mm spoke hole to compensate for 12g as well.
View attachment 203065

Go for it:thumbsup:
According to your values which I pretty much agree with(3sp hub flange-D closer to 57mm).
@3 cross spokes are ≈ 3mm long. @4 cross ≈ 7mm short.

My suggestion considering the nature and use of the wheel is lace it the same 3 cross driving the nipples past the spoke threads. There's about a cm of threads per spoke. You'll have to trim the spoke ends past the nipple heads.
It looks as if I will have to drill out the nipples to allow the threaded part of the spoke to thread past the end, in order to trim. The nipple and spoke match up equally and “shoulders” against the bottom of the threads. Unless there is another nipple option. Also if I need to drill, how much material should I remove to be able to lace up and true. Maybe half of the threads?
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