Klunker spare parts build

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Hi guys,

I tried taking it easy with the bicycle hobby, but faith has other plans now and then.
In my village we get chicken eggs from a local farmer. I'll go and get some eggs by bicycle and enjoy the ride.
Last weeks there was standing a company bicycle at the bus stop nearby which seemed pretty neat. Nothing fancy, just the 'Batavus Delivery' frame I used before:

JAyxUaW.jpeg

I added and welded a 'curved top tube' to this frame.

A week later this bike got smashed by some people. Front fork bent. Front wheel missing and chain completely gone.
Waiting it out a while before it will get picked up by the municipal workers and tossed in the trash, I threw it in my car and took it home.

The frame is steel, made for 26inch wheels. The rear wheel has a 'Histop' coasterbrake (I think that is a CB-e110 copy). Strange, the CB-e110 seems pretty good value for money and rather inexpensive. Anyway, some pictures:

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Sitting for weeks at the bus stop. Droopy...

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Ouch!

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Fork legs indicate a need to go to the bathroom!

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Interesting needle bearing. 1 1/8 threaded fork.

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The right hand crank arm was bent and hard to remove. So decided to do it the rough way: warming the aluminum up with a grinder :grin:

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I hate plastic... this one needs a dentist.

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Interesting bottom bracket design.

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Bare frame, only the bb bearing needs to be removed.

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Drilling out the plastic teethless bearing.
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Rims and hub are like new! A bit dirty.

Seeing the state of this bicycle, it seems only a few years old.

The geometry is neat as well.

With a slightly curved top tube welded on the frame, I see a neat klunker bike in this one.
26 inch wheels, 26x2.25 (or fatter) mountainbike tires, coaster brake and a drum brake on the front.


What are your thoughts?
 
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I am not a big found of big diameter tubes on the frame, but this is just my aesthetical preference.
I think it would look really cool with the bottom bracket moved forward and the belly of the frame dropped below under the chain stays!
 
I am not a big found of big diameter tubes on the frame, but this is just my aesthetical preference.
I think it would look really cool with the bottom bracket moved forward and the belly of the frame dropped below under the chain stays!
I see what you mean, at the moment I am sceptical of these big tubing diameter too. Although it gives the bike a bit more stiffness.

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Found a 15 bucks front wheel. Almost new.

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Found a 20 bucks front fork. This is a Sparta Amazone front fork. Heavy and indestructable.

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26x2.4 Schwalbe Space tires.

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Crank arms and bars.

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Checking a straight top tube, but I like a curved one better.

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Money spent: 35 euros, the rest I had lying around.
 
I tried taking it easy with the bicycle hobby, but faith has other plans now and then.
🤣 Yeah, it's addictive. I took a break for a while to work on other stuff but bicycles have their allure. Very cool project you've got going. I really like seeing different styles of frames built into klunkers and this one is very interesting. I think the straight top tube could work but I agree that a curved one would compliment the rest of the frame better. That's a great collection of parts to use for this as well. Those 2.4 Schwalbe's should be great for unimproved trails, which I think make for really fun rides. Looking forward to seeing where you take this one!!
 
I just rebuilt a Hi-stop coaster brake, and a couple of nearly identical ones that were un-labeled clones.

They weren’t real impressive in construction but they’re going to be OK for casual use by my grandchildren.

Wear on the friction surfaces didn’t appear to be properly distributed, but that could be due to running with loose bearings. More likely just sloppy machine work. (Recycled steel?)

Those certainly all came from bikes originally assembled at Walmart.

I just realized that I have a brand-new Hi-stop on a 24 inch wheel in the shed that I have not yet used.
 
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Howdy,

Just finished painting the 'rimbrake' sections of the rims black. Looks much better!
Mounted the 26x2.4 tires and tried them on the frame:

CK88ar0.jpeg

IrfVNZI.jpeg

tI2Zfyn.jpeg

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:crazy2: That is a tight fit! I do like the looks in a way. Imagine a curved top tube there.


So I tried the Electra RS frame I stored on my attic:
OJnTBeP.jpeg

2XJiZUe.jpeg

I like it!

Do you think I can 'trim' the tire or frame and use the other one?
I like the Electra RS frame much better!
 
Howdy,

Just finished painting the 'rimbrake' sections of the rims black. Looks much better!
Mounted the 26x2.4 tires and tried them on the frame:

CK88ar0.jpeg

IrfVNZI.jpeg

tI2Zfyn.jpeg

FdKGatb.jpeg

:crazy2: That is a tight fit! I do like the looks in a way. Imagine a curved top tube there.


So I tried the Electra RS frame I stored on my attic:
OJnTBeP.jpeg

2XJiZUe.jpeg

I like it!

Do you think I can 'trim' the tire or frame and use the other one?
I like the Electra RS frame much better!
That Electra looks sweet
 
That Electra looks sweet
Thanks captain, decided to go with that one!

Updates:
The rear wheel is almost new. With a KT Histop (Shimano CB-E110 derivative) hub. Don't know if these are good, but we'll find out.
13g steel spokes.
I stuffed the hub with more grease and painted + assembled a second coasterbrake arm I had left from a build.

I tried painting the front fork pink, but the paint would not stick, so I'll have to get some paint remover first or sandblast the fork next week.

I did have an accident with a very strong white paint and now some splatters got on the Electra frame... adds to the rat look I guess, totally on purpose :grin:

I made a drawing for an extra tough seatpost, since the last one bent while riding. I can cut the seatpost to length myself.

Currently the bike has an 44-18 gear ratio. Thinking about 44-22. Not sure yet.

vnpdPuJ.jpeg

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Hey guys!

Thank for the replies, you too @MattiThundrrr !

So I was messing with the paint and decided to go to Michael the crazy German powdercoater :rockout:
He coated it RAL9001, just like a part of the frame.

NXQ5QAM.jpeg


After picking it up the build will pick up some speed.

Random fun:

In Hengelo, a city nearby my place I saw some bicycles (omafiets) ready for winter:
bLSiGul.jpg

oobqoAR.jpg


And I got a bike from a father of a friend of mine. Don't know the exact date yet, but he has bought it more than 50 years ago. Only thing changed since then: saddle.

It is a Peugeot randonneur, a race bicycle with fenders, a rack and a kickstand. Awesome!
Will clean and lube this baby up in the future!
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Hey ratters,

I got the fork back from the coater.

Could not wait one second to assemble that thing :bandit:

I remember trying this fork before when I built this bike earlier. The threads were a little too short and a headset thread cutter is around 100+ euros. The local bike shop do not have these tools unfortunately.
So I removed the thread of the top bearing cup in a milling/turning machine and made shure there is no play between fork and cup. Then I placed a large bush or cap (an inch in length) over that and then I used two nuts.
Works really well, very secure.

I shortened the fork about 10mm. I had to use the grinder. But I also use safety goggles and ear protection caps... they were really cold after spending the night in the shed, but its better than hearing damage. :p

Left: Seatpost (I gotta call the rollcage guy, it has been a while since I sent the email)

Pictures

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Last picture: before cutting a piece of fork.
 
So my grips came in, made in the Netherlands. Brown, since the bike gets a brown Brooks leather seat.
And I'm playing with gear ratios.
With 26x2.35 tires and a 175mm crank:
44-22 or 44-20.

ra6j6Pr.jpeg



But actually this update above is just a cover to share something I found in the Netherlands:
(Probably) 1946 Bendix coasterbrake hub from Canada. Unused!
The last owner said it was imported due to scarcity after the war.
It weird how good it looks being 76 years old, hard to believe. Can anyone verify or recognize it? @MattiThundrrr , you seem a pretty immortal Canadian, have you seen these in 1946? 😉😆

Details:
Threaded cog/sprocket.
Grease valve or nipple.
36 spoke holes.
Does not have that 'red band' I saw here on RRB.


2J94u7Z.jpeg

0IDcZSY.jpeg

zBPYwC3.jpeg
 
So my grips came in, made in the Netherlands. Brown, since the bike gets a brown Brooks leather seat.
And I'm playing with gear ratios.
With 26x2.35 tires and a 175mm crank:
44-22 or 44-20.

ra6j6Pr.jpeg



But actually this update above is just a cover to share something I found in the Netherlands:
(Probably) 1946 Bendix coasterbrake hub from Canada. Unused!
The last owner said it was imported due to scarcity after the war.
It weird how good it looks being 76 years old, hard to believe. Can anyone verify or recognize it? @MattiThundrrr , you seem a pretty immortal Canadian, have you seen these in 1946? 😉😆

Details:
Threaded cog/sprocket.
Grease valve or nipple.
36 spoke holes.
Does not have that 'red band' I saw here on RRB.


2J94u7Z.jpeg

0IDcZSY.jpeg

zBPYwC3.jpeg
Nope not off a Canadian bike CCM was the only game in town at that time and hubs were made by CCM so they would not have been scarce. It may have ended up in a box. I can't see them being imported either tariffs were very high then. Some American bikes have made it over most of us live on the boarder walking distance actually. But I doubt it was ever supposed to be on a Canadian bike. I looked at it closer and it does say Canada on it I stand corrected.
 
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Just for the record, I bought a new 24 inch wheel with a Hi-stop coaster brake on it. It is on The AL-U-Mini Build off bike. I got the wheel, tire and tube, as a takeoff from a new bike. $30 plus tax.
81C5D086-C4ED-4FF0-9941-5B65F512D6B1.jpeg

I just rode it for real yesterday, and it works, but it wasn’t impressive.

I’m sure it will smooth out a little bit but this thing is just not the equal of a Bendix or a New Departure.

When I break that bike down for paint I will break that coaster brake down too, and go through it with some tender loving care. They probably have some minor casting flaws that were never dressed off smoothly.
 
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So my grips came in, made in the Netherlands. Brown, since the bike gets a brown Brooks leather seat.
And I'm playing with gear ratios.
With 26x2.35 tires and a 175mm crank:
44-22 or 44-20.

ra6j6Pr.jpeg



But actually this update above is just a cover to share something I found in the Netherlands:
(Probably) 1946 Bendix coasterbrake hub from Canada. Unused!
The last owner said it was imported due to scarcity after the war.
It weird how good it looks being 76 years old, hard to believe. Can anyone verify or recognize it? @MattiThundrrr , you seem a pretty immortal Canadian, have you seen these in 1946? 😉😆

Details:
Threaded cog/sprocket.
Grease valve or nipple.
36 spoke holes.
Does not have that 'red band' I saw here on RRB.


2J94u7Z.jpeg

0IDcZSY.jpeg

zBPYwC3.jpeg
I actually figured this out they were found on sunshine bikes actually very rare to find even here why there is no band not quite sure.
 
Just for the record, I bought a new 24 inch wheel with a high stop coaster brake on it. It is on The AL-U-Mini Build off bike. I got the wheel, tire and tube, as a takeoff from a new bike. $30 plus tax.
View attachment 219382
I just rode it for real yesterday, and it works, but it wasn’t impressive.

I’m sure it will smooth out a little bit but this thing is just not the equal of a Bendix or a New Departure.

When I break that bike down for paint I will break that coaster brake down too, and go through it with some tender loving care. They probably have some minor casting flaws that were never dressed off smoothly.
Thanks Ulu, maybe the hub needs breaking (braking ;) ) in. The parts are mostly compatible with the Shimano CB-E110. That is the advantage of a copy.

I actually figured this out they were found on sunshine bikes actually very rare to find even here why there is no band not quite sure.
Sunshine bikes, I am going to search about that history, thanks for the effort!!
Some Bendix history here:
https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/dating-bendix-hubs.65280/Seems the non banded hubs predate the banded ones which were introduced in 1962
Found this too, but thanks for your search Matti!
I also found a (2009?) Thread here on RRB on the older no-band hubs via Google.

I am not using this hub or planning to use it just yet. Very hecitant since it is so old, yet new and unique. I am going to cherish it for now.

This week another find will arrive: wooden wheelset from a 1898? safety bike with coasterbrake. A total guess since I haven't seen the set in real life.

I might use this "almost unused" 1952 Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo sometime on a bicycle. It is less hard to find / more common, also in spares:

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The Klunker is almost fully built-up. Needs some cuts (shortening bolts) and some cleaning (grease everywhere).

It is getting harder to wrench with -10 degree celcius temperatures. Everything is cold and your hands just as cold. Lots of noises coming from the shop by shaky hands and wrenches that touch steel! Tringg tingtingting
So happy I don't own a carbon or plastic bicycle :grin:
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CrMo seatposts. Painted them black, matte.

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Assembled. Bolt for the seat is too long. Will correct that.

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Greasepit!

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Thanks for watching!
 
Thanks Ulu, maybe the hub needs breaking (braking ;) ) in. The parts are mostly compatible with the Shimano CB-E110. That is the advantage of a copy.

Thank you Bart.

My suspicion is that it has been sitting around in a shop for years unused, and the waxy asian grease has gotten hard inside.

I nearly have the bike ready to disassemble and do the final polishing & paint. So at that point I’m going to strip the hub and re-grease everything.
 
So the Klunker is basically done. Some testing and adjusting.
What are the costs?

This build right now:
Front wheel: 15 euros
Rear wheel: free!
Grips: 10 euros.
Fork coat: 20 euros.
Seatpost: 15 euros.
Chain: 15 euros.
Total: 75 euros.

Parts I had from the past:
Frame: 20 euros.
Paint: 10 euros.
Stem: 12 euros.
Bars: 14 euros.
Tires: 50 euros.
Seat: free.
Front chainring: free.
Crank: free.
Pedals: 20 euros.
BB bearing: 10 euros.
Total: 136 euros.

Total cost:
211 euros!

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