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For anyone who may not know... 12G spokes are a huge pain in the aas, and rare enough to make them expensive. I've been waiting for WEEKS on a solution to some issues we've been having (basically, non-confidence in measurements). So... I just got off the phone with the spoke builder. I'm toss the 12G hubs to the side, get 14G hubs, re-measure, cut & roll the 14G, then get them here. @Pondo and two other guys are waiting for their wheels from me, and this has taken way too long.

Frustrating!!
No worries, man, I'm in no rush. I'm just looking forward to seeing how your builds are going to turn out!
 
I didn’t take a picture, but the elongated Murray drops were all bent up. So worked on straightening and spacing.

This frame was spaced for 5-speed I think.
14F946F6-2830-427E-B5DF-848C35EA19FA.jpeg


so I wanted to sqeeuze it together a bit.

2738722D-609A-4D62-872B-12D3790C399C.jpeg

05BAD8D1-45EA-4049-B0F1-2D70762E7EC1.jpeg



Then I brake out my homemade dropout alignment tools and got the dropouts set.

1305CD50-6A98-4DC3-B15B-B9A9C3DC9C66.jpeg

274E7796-FBE9-449E-A133-D9160F60637E.jpeg
 
@outskirtscustoms threw me a set of plastic fenders to try out. I could make the front one work, but the rear one comes up pretty short, and I think some sort of fabricated extension would look silly. I’ve got one more thing to try for fenders before I just go fenderless.

D02DDAF2-9FEB-45D3-A59A-93509269F01B.jpeg
 
@outskirtscustoms threw me a set of plastic fenders to try out. I could make the front one work, but the rear one comes up pretty short, and I think some sort of fabricated extension would look silly. I’ve got one more thing to try for fenders before I just go fenderless.

View attachment 218453
Maybe add just a little chunk of metal from an erector set and a few bolts?
 
So I got these a while back. They are just flat pieces of plastic. But the black with white stripes fit the theme, so I gave it a $25 try.

B748A670-8C7C-4B46-96BA-0970451D7BBA.jpeg


Obviously they sit very flat on the bike. So I broke out the heat gun and held them in place with zip ties and proceeded to soften them up.

AE4C928C-3608-46C8-8C49-75470ED6F9A7.jpeg

E4CEB73D-742D-49D8-B9BF-ACCCA15CA440.jpeg



Here’s the results. I can’t say I’m in love with it. They don’t really flow with the tire diameter.

51913FD3-F0AD-4FA0-9FA2-29B54BD121FC.jpeg

1DBEEF40-A6CF-43A8-9C7E-131E13FB96AB.jpeg
 
So I got these a while back. They are just flat pieces of plastic. But the black with white stripes fit the theme, so I gave it a $25 try.

View attachment 218458

Obviously they sit very flat on the bike. So I broke out the heat gun and held them in place with zip ties and proceeded to soften them up.

View attachment 218459
View attachment 218460


Here’s the results. I can’t say I’m in love with it. They don’t really flow with the tire diameter.

View attachment 218461
View attachment 218462
You could try again but use the tire to get a nice radius.
 
I like the maroon ones. And perhaps the rear could stand to have an aluminum top strut laying on it that comes to a radiused point maybe halfway down it's length with speed holes in it. Speed holes that keep getting smaller toward the tip. Sorry for my vague description. A picture would be better.
 
I like the maroon ones. And perhaps the rear could stand to have an aluminum top strut laying on it that comes to a radiused point maybe halfway down it's length with speed holes in it. Speed holes that keep getting smaller toward the tip. Sorry for my vague description. A picture would be better.
I get it. Your description was detailed enough. But fabrication would be my obstacle with that. I’ll have to mull on it.
 
Current snag: was installing seat post and it doesn’t fit. It starts in, and gets stuck right here.

0B1B985D-E15C-40DD-90C6-1D0E0BBA935E.jpeg



So I’m guessing the only way I can get it past whatever lip is holding it at that point is by smoothing down the internal metal.

EEB289A5-6C86-45DB-854D-3E88626AA011.jpeg



Unless you have a better idea?
 
Yep, looks like the post is not the right diameter from the way the seat tube is flanging out at the top.
 
I like these fenders.
aluminum top strut laying on it that comes to a radiused point maybe halfway down it's length with speed holes in it
And I like this idea, though it's a bit of work.

I also think it would look cool with and early Schwinn style MX bar that looks like apes with a cross bar. And an early MX style seat.

Fenderless would be cool too. Looking forward to seeing where it winds up!
 
To me it looks like the bottom of the slot has been crushed in a bit so it's undersized, but I also wonder if the post isn't a touch oversized?

I'd measure the OD of the tube well below of where it's been clamped, then measure the thickness of the tubing to do something of a reality check. If it's close to the size of a stem I might try using the stem's wedge to move the material at the start of the slot. If you position the wedge opposite the slot, the shape of the stem should make the tube a bit more round at the slot?

Just an idea based on a quick look at one photo...

When I was working at a bike shop, some kid starting forcing an oversized post into a tube. It expanded the tube where the sot was, and then when it "bottomed out" on the start of the slot, it just started cutting the tube, essentially just making the slot longer. The dipschmidt just kept WAILING on the post with a hammer, cutting the slot deeper. He was not a master mechanic...
 

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