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Ah plastic tanks aren’t pretend. I had plastic tanks on some of my dirt bikes in the past when I still rode motorcycles!

Yep, that is very true, and who does not have some spare fuel cans lying around as well. Sadly, though, I am making pretend tank for my bike, just like I made one out of cardboard back in the winter... :)
 
Sweet work on that tank!
 
I took muratic acid to the tank and cleaned and etched out the inside. I then proceeded to do a inside tank coating with POR15. I also cleaned up the welds on the outside and gave it a coat of primer. I’ve been so busy with life and my wife’s health, plus the heat that I haven’t spent a lot of time in the shop. I highly doubt I’ll finish by the deadline, but I’ll still continue the build and progress pics and report.
 
Hope your wife is better.
This is such an intricate and cool build. Any chance of you crossing the finish line even if only by pedal before Sep 6th?
 
Throw a chain, handlebars and a seat on that sucker and finish stage 1 of your build!
 
Well It’s been awhile since I’ve posted any progress on the build, but even though life got in the way, I’ve be managed to keep plugging away on the bike. My plan is to get all the fabrication done yet this winter, then disassemble, paint and reassemble in the spring. I’ve been amassing all the parts and pieces to finish it. Now to bring you all up to speed.
 
First pics are of my hand clutch/ belt tensioner. I fabricated a bracket that I welded to the top tube with detent notches to hold the tension on the belt. I know some will say I’m tensioning the wrong side of the belt, but due to crank clearance I went this way and it works good.
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The rear wheel pulley I made out of a 24” rim, I glued and riveted a leather strap into it to make it look better, as well as to aid in belt traction. I then fabricated a transfer/tension pulley by welding a 4” 6 groove pulley to a 4” single groove pulley. Than I fabricated a mount with a sliding nut with a tensioner stud that allows me to properly tighten the serpentine belt.
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I wanted to keep the bike looking more period correct, so I opted to to go with a skip tooth chain and sprockets. The front sprocket I picked up on EBay and I cut a disk to bolt to it to mount to my crank. The crank I heated and bent to give me plenty of clearance around the engine on the right side and the belt drive on the left. The rear sprocket was machined as well to mount on a modern coaster hub.
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While I was at it, I made a pair of axle tensioners and frame brackets as my tolerances are tight and I don’t want the rear wheel moving under torque.
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I purchased a pair of after market bars and machined them to mount a throttle assembly off of a Honda Trail 90 bike, giving me an internal throttle cable. I also built my own intake manifold to mount a cheap Chinese 2 stroke carb which works great! I’ve got a pair of coke bottle grips coming which should finish this off perfectly.
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I got my Sturmey Archer dyno front brake drum hub laced in and mounted. I had to order 12 gauge spokes to match the rear wheel and give it a more beefier look and feel. While I was at it I added a headlight from an old tractor. My plan is to convert it to LED with a external switch and wired to the front dyno hub.
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Well I got my pedals. I purchased a cheap pair of Chinese pedals on EBay and was surprised how well they are built and smooth. However my plan all along was to replace the rubber blocks (plastic) on these with oak wood. All I have left to do is put a coat of either poly varnish or boiled linseed oil on them.
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