Recent content by Erich Stein

No, I haven't totally aligned the rear yet. I understand the basic process, and I know my frame is out of alignment - i have to spread it apart 1/4 inch to get he hub in there.

I had the bike out for a 3 hour run. Forgot to tighten the back down and the wheel started wedging against the chainstay. Luckily there was a Horrible Freight --- 1/2 mile away, to sell me an adjustible wrench. So now the bike works good, except that chain is still rubbing the tire. I hope...

I already had the bike hour for a few hours today and it feels GREAT. For the first time I can just switch from absolute high to absolute low with NO resistance or noise. Feels great. The chain is STILL skimming the tire, but I just ran it anyway. I'd rather just buy a new tire then put off...

Ok now I'm done venting about the ridiculous plastic bearing material INSIDE of the BEARING..... The cranks are installed, which took about 30 - 45 minutes. It took about an HOUR for me to figure out how to UNTANGLE a 2x size chain.... There's more clearance between the chain and tire but...

Ok. My crank-kit arrives today. Everything looks gorgeous.... I guess.... It doesn't match the style of my beach cruiser, at first - but a little black primer paint, airbrush help - and a trip to the machine shop, and it will be ready to rock. It's a whole lot nicer looking than the stock...

Thanks for helping me choose the crank arms! I ordered the set, the adapter, and the tool. I hope this is my last hang-up before I get to ride the bike with Nuvinci and start having fun and end my nervous headaches bending the frame.

I had no idea what a burrito bike was, but now I do. That's interesting.

I found this on youtube, showing a "ghost-ring". I don't know why someone would do this, just to see what happens. But it gives me an idea about a jackshaft, I could just mount a chain-ring on an idle spindle mounted to the chain-stay to pull that chain out to clear the wheel.... That is, if...

Ok. Thanks for the information. 36t chainring with work to get me started. I found a same crankset, $10 cheaper in NY (faster to ship to NJ): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-ZEE-M640-170mm-36t-Crankset-with-Bottom-Bracket-Bicycle-/191882763603?hash=item2cad1a9d53:g:yLUAAOSwBahU5QX8

Ok, I found this on ebay 1) 100mm BOTTOM BRACKET ENGLISH: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-TRUVATIV-GXP-100mm-BOTTOM-BRACKET-ENGLISH-FOR-FAT-BIKE-NEW-/381518455488?hash=item58d445a2c0:g:WS4AAOSwT5tWJsE4 2) bottom bracket adapter, to fit my threadless 1-piece crank bottom bracket...

Ok. Regarding re-spacing my spindle; I do not really want to get into doing that, I do not have the experience to make myself confident and paid someone else to do this because of the headache factor, calculating spoke length, etc... I think the external bearing cups would space it apart...

Well, I guess I could do that. I wanted to be done with the spoking-of-the-wheel part of this project and move on. This information could have been useful earlier on in my project. An offset hub would solve alot of issues, of course.

Ok, I understand the 68 x 130 square taper cartridge, and crankset. I'm going to have to read up on the Truvativ American to Euro adapters. So far, they look like cups, that bolt into the bottom bracket. (link below)...

Hi. I have a Micargi streatch beach cruiser. It originally had 3" x 24" tire on a slim 2" rim. I mounted a Nuvinci n380, on a 57mm x 24" rim, and spread the rear chain & seat stays using a scissor jack (spreading rear on a different thread). Originally was a 68mm x 2-1/4 (or 2-3/16)...

I think that tool might be a spring spreader tool used in automotive to compress strut coil springs.... Yes, I am getting tire rub on a few spots up the chain-stays, was going to re-seat the tire and tube to even it out - but the tolerance is still very close on my bike. Also I have an issue...