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One-eyed Sailor said:
This site rocks.
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I would drill very small holes in the crack ends. More than likely this will keep the crack from growing. If it doesn’t grow I would thread the holes, screw in small bolts, grind it down and weld it. File it smooth, put black paint on your finger and rub over the fix. It will blend with the old paint and you won’t be able to tell it was ever repaired. Done this twice. Did it on a friends Black Panther years ago and he was amazed that “you can’t even see it”. You could also skip the holes and see if it grows, then weld, file and finger paint. Looks like a pretty easy fix to me.
 
I couldn't find one for myself so i made one! :D
In general if you like classic cruisers and want to get as close but bigger - Project 346 cruiser is the best choice for you. They could be hard to get, especially in US (346 comes from the Netherlands, famous of its teller riders) but not impossible ;)
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Grant said:
1920s BSA
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Those old bikes, called tall bikes, were for short riders. I have one. The geometry is all different, very short top tube. A tall rider‘s knees would hit the handlebars. Fixed gear with a spoon brake. Some had a mounting peg on the rear axle nut. This was before many cars so you didn’t have to put your foot down much. As soon as motorcycles, cars and trucks added congestion the bikes got shorter. Mine is terrifying to ride, fixed gear, no brakes, cramped cockpit and so tall your feet won’t touch the ground when straddling it. I’m 5’8” and my knees hit my hands if I grab the center of the bars while pedaling. The riding position was still influenced by big wheelers. Really uncomfortable to ride an antique tall fixie. A 6’2” bike mechanic said my bike was for him. I told him he wouldn’t fit, he was too tall to pedal it.
 
us56456712 said:
Those old bikes, called tall bikes, were for short riders. I have one. The geometry is all different, very short top tube. A tall rider‘s knees would hit the handlebars. Fixed gear with a spoon brake. Some had a mounting peg on the rear axle nut. This was before many cars so you didn’t have to put your foot down much. As soon as motorcycles, cars and trucks added congestion the bikes got shorter. Mine is terrifying to ride, fixed gear, no brakes, cramped cockpit and so tall your feet won’t touch the ground when straddling it. I’m 5’8” and my knees hit my hands if I grab the center of the bars while pedaling. The riding position was still influenced by big wheelers. Really uncomfortable to ride an antique tall fixie. A 6’2” bike mechanic said my bike was for him. I told him he wouldn’t fit, he was too tall to pedal it.
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Can I see a pic of yours?
 
Grant said:
Can I see a pic of yours?
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I can just stretch and touch my toes on the ground if I sit uncomfortably with my weight all on the top tube. My knees touch my hands if their off the drop ends. There are way worse ones, like that BSA. Its real uncomfortable to ride, scary too without brakes, can’t get easily off and poor leverage to stop. I can’t lock up to skid around corners and trying to do a hockey stop would probably break something.
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us56456712 said:
I can just stretch and touch my toes on the ground if I sit uncomfortably with my weight all on the top tube. My knees touch my hands if their off the drop ends. There are way worse ones, like that BSA. Its real uncomfortable to ride, scary too without brakes, can’t get easily off and poor leverage to stop. I can’t lock up to skid around corners and trying to do a hockey stop would probably break something.View attachment 216849
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The crazy part is that they had the seat slammed on the top tube. Then a decade later they figured out you could put your foot down if you made the frame smaller and used a taller post. The red bike above has 7 inch crank arms and look how much pedal clearance there is.
 
I'd braze that crack with my oxy-acetylene torch and some bronze rod. Much more forgiving than welding, with less chance of blowing through. Could also use silver solder at even lower temperatures.

Wire welding seems pretty iffy, but I'm partial to what I'm used to, and have no skill with electric welding.

I would like to find a bigger frame myself, and I'm only 6'1".
 
us56456712 said:
I can just stretch and touch my toes on the ground if I sit uncomfortably with my weight all on the top tube. My knees touch my hands if their off the drop ends. There are way worse ones, like that BSA. Its real uncomfortable to ride, scary too without brakes, can’t get easily off and poor leverage to stop. I can’t lock up to skid around corners and trying to do a hockey stop would probably break something.View attachment 216849
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Reminds me of this bike that I saw in a local bookstore.
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This is the Philly Special, a mild custom I did based on the Tuesday February 29, a big 29"wheel cruiser. I'm 6'1" and it fits me with room to spare.
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axeman88 said:
I'd braze that crack with my oxy-acetylene torch and some bronze rod. Much more forgiving than welding, with less chance of blowing through. Could also use silver solder at even lower temperatures.

Wire welding seems pretty iffy, but I'm partial to what I'm used to, and have no skill with electric welding.

I would like to find a bigger frame myself, and I'm only 6'1".
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Brazing would for sure be better. Most people weld now a days, less gear. if you think brazing is more forgiving to do than welding you’ve never braised. Easy to burn through and blobby until you get skills. I weld something pretty much every week for a few years. I still can’t weld for krp. I’ve welded a lot of frame dents, cracks and broken off seat tube clamps. My welding is better than my brazing, which is really bad.
 

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