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I would match up the crank, the fork doesn't look schwinn, and dought it's ever been change. Look fantastic with boiled lindseed oil.
 
Huffman, (Huffy) the dropouts are a clear giveaway. Chain wheel too. 50's from the looks of it. The serial number will show the year. Here's a 50 dial a ride model:
1678313052045.png


This shows a 1952 serial number the first number is the last digit of the year, you just have to figure the right decade.

1678313086291.png


It looks good, someone tried to make it a whizzer, but the damage is mainly to the fork threads, that's a challenge. You might as well leave it like that if it rides ok.
 
Wildcat said:
Huffman, (Huffy) the dropouts are a clear giveaway. Chain wheel too. 50's from the looks of it. The serial number will show the year. Here's a 50 dial a ride model:
View attachment 225945

This shows a 1952 serial number the first number is the last digit of the year, you just have to figure the right decade.

View attachment 225946

It looks good, someone tried to make it a whizzer, but the damage is mainly to the fork threads, that's a challenge. You might as well leave it like that if it rides ok.
Click to expand...
View attachment 225949
 
Wildcat said:
Huffman, (Huffy) the dropouts are a clear giveaway. Chain wheel too. 50's from the looks of it. The serial number will show the year. Here's a 50 dial a ride model:
View attachment 225945

This shows a 1952 serial number the first number is the last digit of the year, you just have to figure the right decade.

View attachment 225946

It looks good, someone tried to make it a whizzer, but the damage is mainly to the fork threads, that's a challenge. You might as well leave it like that if it rides ok.
Click to expand...
Thanks @Wildcat !!!
 
Definitely a Huffman. I would guess late 40s to mid 50s
 
That thick crown fork makes me think late 40s
 
either used to have a motor or that wheel is off another bike! some sort of belt drive maybe so you could get a small 2 stroke motor to bring it back and relive its former glory, I rekon score of the year so far.... so Jealous!!!
also just noticed the different tyre's but hey, its 80 odd yr old, we'll let the different tyres go LOL! but a big WOW! @ those locking rear dropout's thats a nice touch.
 
Jude Ephesus said:
View attachment 225931
Click to expand...

re: split wide open fork threads on top.

Try this tactic.
Leave the stem in place to prevent over doing it.
Heat the threads up with a torch to dull red.
Push the tips back in with a wood stick til it's kinda round.
Put on a hose clamp with the screw on the far side.*
more heat and tighten up the hose clamp as you go.
That should get it round enough to unthread the top bearing race so you can service the bearings and inspect the rest of the fork steerer for damage.

* a hammer or pliers/vise grips/channel locks will deform it out of round.
 
I'm no expert on Whizzers, but I think it's a Whizzer. Notice how the nuts hold
that belt pulley at the crossing spokes. It doesn't even use washers. Unless it's
an extremely rare bike made by an elusive engineer that managed to forge the
belt pulley and calculate the distance from each spoke crossing and mill the
holes in the exact correct location to ensure a perfect rotation without any hop
or wobble. Sure, that's possible. He was a man before his time no doubt, as we
all are without the assistance of computers. The Professor from Gilligan's Island
maybe. Or it's a Whizzer. Again, no expert. :wink1:
 
All the whizzers I've seen have the same kind of pulley. The one on Jude's bike looks like it was cut from something with a torch and there are no marks where a motor was mounted. Maybe the builder never finished the conversion.

From the CABE:
"Here is a page from the June 1948 American Bicyclist:"

1678570661859.png
 
Here’s the serial number:

I’ve got to drive some kids around the next few hours….

I’ll look up later: or, if anyone here knows, I’d love to know!!!!

Maybe a ‘53?
8C56987F-A3BE-4F8E-9704-FC4EAEDAA0FA.jpeg
 

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