TRADITIONAL Raleigh-Up

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These pedals are super cool and they are in perfect working order after being overhauled.

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Problem is the metal doohickeys are too close. I cannot fit a shoe between them. Very annoying.

Unfortunately they have to go.
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Hoping to get out for a long test ride and some pictures tomorrow.

I also still need to find a saddle. I’m going to have to buy something.
 
I like Chad's idea ^^ on the saddle, but it looks good on there. Dig the grips as well. This came together quickly in the past week or so!
 
Chad T said:
Looking good. Saddle might look better if you could take out the front spring? Chain guard looks great. Fenders going back on?
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Interesting idea in the front spring. I will take a look at that.

Negative on the fenders. I’m not a fan of fenders. I never intentionally ride in the rain. Fenders limit my ability to wheel bikes around the shop on the rear wheel. I have been dropping my unwanted bike parts off with a guy that sells on eBay. Those fenders are currently listed for sale.
 
OddJob said:
I like Chad's idea ^^ on the saddle, but it looks good on there. Dig the grips as well. This came together quickly in the past week or so!
Click to expand...

Thanks. I bought those grips a while back. They are brooks branded. Honestly they are overpriced for what they are. I wouldn’t buy them again. They photograph well, and they are interesting to look at, but not worth the money.
 
twojs.bike said:
@Chad T Great suggestion! I hadn’t even thought about removing the front spring. The saddle looks so much better. These go for about $35-$40 on eBay. Very reasonable compared to a brooks. The front spring just looked goofy.

View attachment 269278
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Another option with those saddles is to replace the Gerald McBoing Boing spring with a more practical and stylish side curled spring. I know @Wildcat did this in a thread years ago. Seams like the springs can be sourced super cheap. I'll find a link to it somewhere.
 
I searched back and his old pics aren't working. But I did find that he's done exactly what you did on subsequent similar saddles. Just removing the front goofy spring works great and works better with the classy vibe of your build.
 
OddJob said:
Dang, I was hoping we would get another one of your Video Updates on this brake pad refining process. :grin: Now that the bike looks almost complete, does that mean the video episodes are over? :doh:
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Ha. You are encouraging me! I plan to do a final finished build video. But… in the meantime… I can do one more for your entertainment. There are still a few details to show off.
 
Man, this bike is looking good! I love the seat after the spring removal. Makes that seat a good option now. The leather grips set it off nicely. Love it!
 
I am struggling with the frame pump. The plunger was completely shot. I have this spare white ‘made in England’ pump. The two are close enough in size that some of the parts are interchangeable.

I was able to get combination of parts from both pumps assembled. The frankenpump works fine before attached to the inner tube valve. However, once attached to the a schrader valve it will no longer pump.

I am wondering if these pumps are designed for Dunlop/woods valves and will not work with schrader?

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I'm not sure what a 'Dunlop/Wood' valve is, but it could have been set up for what is commonly called a presta or French valve that come on most high pressure tire/tube combinations.

Screenshot_20240623_160531_Google.jpg
 
Dunlop or woods is not common in USA

The only time I ran into a woods valve was while working on a Gazelle.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve

I am not even sure this is the problem, just a guess. The more I think about it, I don’t think this is the problem. If you look at the 3rd picture, there is no pin in the center of the nozzle to release the shader valve.

I don’t know. Hopefully the new pump will work.

twojs.bike said:
Gazelle
Click to expand...


Towards the end of the video of my Gazelle build I show the Woods valve.

Beats me.
 

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