ORBO Racer MX

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A nutted axle might fit the build slightly better but I would probably just run the QR. It's already on there and is more practical in use.
I completely agree. Run the QR with the lever on the non-drive side, like you have it already, and it is virtually undetectable in a Final Photo.

I would look for some more mtb style grips to go with your tires and overall vibe. The Oury grips are the real deal, came from the moto-x world. In fact, in 1988 when I bought my first pair, I had to buy 2 pr at the local motorcycle shop. The left grip is 22.2, but the right grip is bigger to accommodate the throttle size! I needed two lefts, to make it right! Since the very early '90s, Oury has made them in standard mtb bar sizes for L and R.

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Get them in flange or no flange. I saved myself some money, trying to crunch dollars, and got these 'knock offs' for Bandito. They aren't as comfy or beefy, but they work.

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The Oury grips are the real deal
Ourys are my favorites as well. One of my first minibikes, either the '69 or '71 z50 Honda, had them. I still have the bikes but the grips have long since left the chat. 😆 I still use Ourys on my MTBs very frequently. :cool2:

I needed two lefts, to make it right!
But three rights makes a left. :grin:
 
The Bendix kickback is shifting beautifully. It is extremely quiet. Almost silent. Unlike the modern SA kickback which has a very unpleasant sound
My SA kickback has a loud rattle in 2nd gear when you stop peddaling. I like it personally. People hear you coming from afar! The SA S2C is a great hub so far in my view. I wonder how your Bendix would ride and feel.

I love the bike you built!
 
Any opinions on using a quick release axle in this fork? My front hub is QR. I’m thinking a bolt on axle would be more appropriate. Or am I overthinking this?

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I put quick release axles on a lot of my builds in case the bike needs to go in a trunk. Then I only need to remove a pedal to get it in after I drop the tire out.
 

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Anyone know if this amount of resistance is normal with a Bendix Automatic? It is not as loud as it sounds in video. Shifts great. Your browser is not able to display this video.
The red band kickback is an earlier model. Improvements were made for the blue and yellow models. Blue is overdrive, red and yellow are under drive and direct. Red 1960-64, yellow and blue 1964 on.
 
Anyone know if this amount of resistance is normal with a Bendix Automatic? It is not as loud as it sounds in video. Shifts great. View attachment 288988
I have worked on all three of the Bendix kickback varieties. I tended to set them up a little "loose" as far as adjusting the cones. I also have read that the kickback hubs don't like a lot of chain tension, no idea if this is true or not.
 
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Here it is with the original bars. While they make for a comfortable riding position, they aren’t appropriate for the off road part of the orbo. I will probably order the moto-x bars that @OddJob posted.

I flipped the guts of the seat. Subtle difference but I think it looks much better.

This was the only front brake I had that would reach the rim. I believe the longer the reach, the less mechanical advantage. I am also running the generic brake pads that came with it. Also a very short brake lever. Needless to say, I need to make some changes. As is, the braking power is awful.

I also need to find some instructions for how to apply the decals.

It is close. It rides good. Looking forward to getting the book as maybe it will have some clues to the rear hub. It is shifting great, just seems to have more drag than I would expect.

I bought a cheap BMX seatpost clamp. Thought that would give it a little subtle bling. However it doesn’t seem to tighten down properly. That’s what happens when you spend good money on cheap parts.
 
View attachment 289103View attachment 289104

Here it is with the original bars. While they make for a comfortable riding position, they aren’t appropriate for the off road part of the orbo. I will probably order the moto-x bars that @OddJob posted.

I flipped the guts of the seat. Subtle difference but I think it looks much better.

This was the only front brake I had that would reach the rim. I believe the longer the reach, the less mechanical advantage. I am also running the generic brake pads that came with it. Also a very short brake lever. Needless to say, I need to make some changes. As is, the braking power is awful.

I also need to find some instructions for how to apply the decals.

It is close. It rides good. Looking forward to getting the book as maybe it will have some clues to the rear hub. It is shifting great, just seems to have more drag than I would expect.

I bought a cheap BMX seatpost clamp. Thought that would give it a little subtle bling. However it doesn’t seem to tighten down properly. That’s what happens when you spend good money on cheap parts.
LOVE the tires…. I see them on eBay all the time, and for whatever reason, I always pass them up!

Look awesome!
 
The funny thing is, I completely tore this thing down and rebuilt it and I have absolutely no idea how it works!!!!

I just ordered Glenn’s Complete Bicycle Manual from eBay. Supposedly fit has about a dozen pages dedicated to servicing these kickback hubs. Will see what I can learn.
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Best book ever for 60s bikes. I still have mine that I bought new. The wheel building instructions are not good, but everything else is ok. A lot of my bike buddies have purchased this book after seeing my grease stained version. It does have info on kick backs.
 

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